Zahos

i have emailed him about leaving a deposit tonight, but no response. What time is he there until?

search for whiteline and swaybars terry. There is plenty of info

Hi, I'm after the drivers side door trim and elec window control panel. Dont care about condition of vinyl, velour and paint, so long as there is not much breakage. What price are you after?

Hey Denham, Are there going to be any more group buys in the future? This one is going nowhere (2 PM's and no reply, no updates here). $175 for swaybars is a good price. Dont suppose you got a price for front shocks from them also?

Finds plenty for me... Post #4 of this thread or Post #25 & post #80 & post #125 of this thread and also covered by some other dude that has a VR4 here

S1 and S2 coils are all like that, even RB20 coils. The cracking is nothing to do with overtightening, they crack b/c the plastic becomes fatigued and brittle from age and the temperatures under the cover. The reason why there are less S@ R33's and R34's with cracked coils is b/c they are newer. This problem is not isolated to Skylines, it can happen to any coil on any car.

And spray the springs and contact points of the coils with WD40... When I had moisture corrode the contact points in my coils I had the same thing, it would splutter over 3000rpm. After cleaning them up, went back to normal.

Cracked coils are not the only cause.... The problem lies in the standard ecu, retarding timing and over fueling when the AFM detects too much air flow (ie: when you start to run more boost). With good coils you will experience a flat spot. With fatigued coils you will experience misfire. Gapping your plugs down helps. The best solution is to replace your ECU with a programmable ECU, and get yourself some new coils. If you cant afford to do both of those, then a SAFC will also help (if not fix the problem) by leaning out your fuel mixtures. And covering the cracks on your coils, and cleaning the contact points is a good substitute for new coils (given the internals of the coils are still good - which they almost always are). I took the latter path... almost 4 years ago I gapped my plugs down to 0.8mm and the misfire turned into a flat spot. 2- 3 years ago I got a SAFC fitted and tuned for a 12:1 A/F ratio and the car drove like a dream. No flat spot, no misfire, just got better and better all the way to redline. 1 year ago my misfire issues came back - so I put araldite on the coils - car was driving better than ever... 6 months ago, a missfire occured at 3 - 4 rpm - I cleaned the contact points on my coils with WD-40, and the car was, and still is driving like new.... So have a search on ALL of these points, they were coverd years ago, and I'm guessing the newer forum members dont pick them up in their searches b/c the threads are so old now, so try searching in ascending order (ie: older threads come up first)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=51046 Thermal plastics cannot be welded. The back of the coil is covered in epoxy during production, so an epoxy like araldite is fine for the temperatures the coils see.

thats the one.... same size servings, both are huge, but quality of food is not so good... How is the quality of Blue Fire Grill compared to these 2???

can we get a picture of the fracture?

Can you get hi res pics of the 3 good tyres. Can you also get a price to strip the 2 crap tyres, and ship the lot to melbourne, postcode 3192 Thanks

Good thing i am eating a steak sandwich as I read this thread!!!

I believe PF is the platinum and obviously BCP....X is the Iridium BCP and BKR are the copper equivalents (equivalent in dimensions and fit) Of course they are going to try to sell you their most profitable plugs rather than the coppers.

why dont you search this topic? It is covered extensively!!!

That was Robert DeNiro in Taxi Driver. Scarface was: "Say Hello to my little friend!"

They Claim that 90% happens in the first 10 minutes of driving... Do they claim that it is reduced if you sit there warming up your car on idle.... NO. But they do give the impression that it does... So theres an even bigger, shifty marketing technique. B/C letting it idle for 10 minutes, then driving off causes 99.9% of engine wear, and that does not help selling their product if people just drove off with any other oil...

Nigel is pretty good if he can be bothered spending the time to do it properly. When I had mine tuned, he stopped at a certain point, but I still wasn't happy with my A/F ratios. I asked him to keep going until it was flat. but yes it does read high. Before my tune, I saw about 168rwkw, and 200 after. i think 160 and 190rwkw are more realistic in my case.

FMIC 90mm super dragger (cat back) + 3"dump + front into 3" hi flow cat 9psi SAFC2 - flat 12:1 A/F ratio everything else stock as a rock 200rwkw personally i think this figure is a little high. 190rwkw seems more realistic to me....

Yeah, but it needs to be air tight too.

http://www.reepa.com/fuelnozzle.php Came from this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...75&page=2&pp=40 (post 44)

have a search on here for this topic, there is a tutorial on how to fix this using metal putty, the type you knead with your fingers. Worked very well for me.

The PBR is very poorly built (well all the dead ones I have seen died prematurely). My last PBR clutch died after 50,000 km. The friction plate was barely worn, but the pressure plate crapped itself. I don't know of any1 that has had good experiences with a PBR in a performance car.

can you post the model number so we can look it up. I want to know if it can control my JVC CD stacker.

B/C on idle, the mixtures are rich and are washing the oil off your cylinder chambers, causing more engine wear. 7yphon has the right idea, that is the best way to prolong engine life. I usually wait until the oil pressure goes up before driving, so it is after 10 seconds or so. Just drive off, and take it easy. You gearbox and diff need to circulate oil too you know