Zahos

why do people spend so much time letting it idle? Just let it run for 30 secs so the oil pump gets the oil circulating, then take it easy for a while..... Letting it idle for 10 mins does more harm than good.

No need to convince me LPG is a waste of cash, unless you drive your falcon 50,000 km a year and dont care about performance.... Although the statements I made above (taken from other resources) may be right (or may not be), they do not list what the margins are. eg: the difference in engine wear may be so small it is negligable, but the article lists this as a positive to LPG b/c they stand to gain from it financialy. I mentioned the cold start engine wear, b/c I was reading somewhere a while ago, that mercedes recomend you only let your engine warm up on cold starts for 30 - 60 seconds, otherwise the rich mixtures on idle wash the oil off the cylinder chambers. Then I assumed as LPG is "dry" in comparison to petrol, that engine wear on gas cold starts is reduced..... But then again, who can start their engine cold on LPG anyhow

I know on cold starts and on idle LPG DECREASES engine wear b/c it enters the engine as a gas (not squirted as a fine mist like petrol), meaning on cold starts the unburned petrol washes down the cylinder wall diluting and removing the oil. I have read several articles that indicate engine wear increases with LPG, but googling this topic now, I have read several sites that indicate you are correct on this one....

I just re-read my first post and see where the mix up comes from.... When I said up-grade your injection system, I meant upgrade from the vaporised gas carburettor system. Sorry about the bad wording. :Oops:

SBS, monday night, 7:30 and they show 1 myth on beyond tomorrow, 7:30, wed night channel 7

The system I saw I think was on a VR commodore in wheels, or one of those car mags, and it was a feature on a readers car. I have not heard much of them either, but was only really aware of their existance.

LPG Injection: http://www-control.eng.cam.ac.uk/Homepage/...cts/manzie.html http://www.abc.net.au/newinventors/txt/s1345083.htm http://www.parnell.com.au/index.php?option...&id=3&Itemid=26 Like I have said a few times already, all dual fuel systems on EFI cars dont use an injection system, they use a vaporised gas carburettor system. The system I am talking about is a gas only system. Around the time I saw it, an LPG system with dual fule was about $1000 - $1500, and the straight gas injection system was $4000. Weather it was direct or throttle injection, I don't know and I dont care, but based on those links I have provided, direct LPG injection seems to be a very recent development. So my guess lies with throttle injection. Even with throttle injection, a greater mass of LPG can be consumed than a standard vaporised gas carburettor system allows (in theory, and it must have been in practice too to sell for double or tripple that of a conventional system) And yes it is a waste of money unless you do lots of km, and intend on keeping the car for a long time. Even then, it requires more maintanance, and can increase the rate of engine wear. Not worth it in my opinion either, but definately interesting.

Why would an N/A skyline need to cool it's oil down? Turbo's spool at up to 150000 rpm (maybe more), and it's when the engine is stopped that oil on the bearings starts to cook. The oil is not cooking itself, the hot bearing are. Unless you have removed the rev limiter on your N/A so it revs to 150,000 rpm, you are doing damage, not good. Have a read of this article . In particular look at the reliability section.

Duel fuel systems don't use any form of injection AFAIK, but I have seen gas only systems that use injection. I cant remeber if it was direct injection, or throttle injection, but it was definately some form of injection. This was in car mag 10 years ago, and I remeber them comparing size of injectors to cars standard injectors for ULP and they were considerably larger. The setup did not allow to run ULP, it was LPG only.

LPG has a much higher octane rating than ULP, but because of it's lower density, you need to ungrade your injection system to get enough in there. Many people have gained more power on N/A cars swaping to a straight gas system. Dual / fuel is where you loose power as you need to tune the car half way between what would be optimal for LPG and optimal for ULP. I have yet to see a stright LPG system with forced induction, but if setup properly, I cant see why you wouldn't gain power.

- front adjustable swaybar for R33 GTS-t - front shocks (bilstein) Definately getting the first, 2nd will depend on price.. Thanks

Standard turbo cannot flow enough air to make desired boost pressure. A 76+mm dump + front pipe may help you a little, but the turbo is the major bottleneck for that much airflow...

I've seen some R33's with factory turbo timers too There was a switch that let you choose between 1 and 3 mins.

they actualy do more harm than good to an N/A vehicle. on idle, the A/f mixtures are rich, which eventually washes any oil off the cylinder chamber walls, causing more engine wear.... Why do you think most car manufacturers recomend you warm up your car in the mornings for only 30 - 60 seconds?? It's beneficial for a turbo b/c the cost of saving the turbo outweighs the engine wear factor. Even better are the pumps that circulate oil through your turbo after you have shut the engine down. I have yet to see one though....

To do one of them with steel wool wrapped around the end of a drill bit (I know it's no dremel tool) took me a few minutes, and there was still some left... To do all 6 with WD40 took 30 seconds. I then used the steel wool to clean any residue. Spraying degreaser will do nothing, you need to use WD40 or CRC50. WD40 is much easier.

But this test was based on cruising on the highway. Stop start driving and hill climbing are not part of the conditions where this myth was thought to be true. But I think the caterpault was f*cken funny sh*t!!! Especially the way it fell apart afterwards....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...?t=51046&page=2 post #57 No need for Dremel tool. Just spray some WD-40 or CRC-50 on them and it washes off instantly! Then just rub inside with a bit of steel wool for a few seconds and they are right to go.

But the steel is more tensile in the GT-R rear sway bar than the GTS-t, is it not? I have put the GT-R rear sway bar on and I felt a considerable difference. Could that be simply b/c I upgraded my worn rubber bushes to new polyurethane items? (I think I have over tightened the bushes too!)

Huh? :confused:

Using your standard electrical tape is not a permanent fix b/c the tape shrinks with heat. It must have been a fluke with the octane booster b/c the difference that stuff makes is negligable in my experience. Hey rickhead, I've been using it for 10-11? months now... still runs PERFECTLY. If you do it though, make sure you do it right and spend the time to put plenty on in the right spots...

It wont crack the coils even if you press them in hard... Coils are cracked due to fatigue in the plastic from heat and age... Gapping 1.1mm plugs down is no big deal, as the spark arc to the tip (points) A heat range of 7 is too cold for a midly modded skyline. I dunno how modded yours is, but most people should be using a heat range of 6. I would choose 5 if the car is close to stock.

Post #4 of this thread has pics of where the araldite was applied

Hey Matt, Good to hear your problem has cleared up... In re to spark plugs, don't waste your money on platinums... If you dont mind changing them every 1 - 2 years then get a set of coppers as copper is a much better conductor. and at $3 - $4 each, better value. Get some NGK BKR6E which are gapped at 0.8 already. Best to check them still though... If you cant find any, BKR6E-11 gapped down to 0.8 are fine too.... If you cant find those, then BCPR6E and BCPR6E-11 will be fine also. Gapping to 0.8 will ensure a more reliable spark.

Where can you get them that price? Best price i found was $650 for front pair....

I'm no expert, but it doesn't sound like a good sign (I could be wrong) I spent ages cleaning them with steel wool and it made little difference. Took me 30 seconds to clean with WD40 and worked a treat! I cant be sure that yours are facing the same issues without looking at them though.