Zahos

did you also read post #57? this sounds more like what you are experiencing. Could also be a cracked spark plug. Check or replace them if needed. This is a good place to start.

what are the price differences between the 2? The quotes I have are about $650 for Bilsteins (front pair) and $620 for the Koni's.... Are KYB shocks any good for a daily driver? I have a quote for $292 for those.

that plug is too cold for a daily driver. As BHDave said, a 5 heat range is good for stock, and 6 for modified. 7 is too cold, and should only be used when heavily modified. BKR6E, or BCPR6E are your best bet. They should be gapped at 0.8, and have the V groove which allows more edges for the spark to arc from.

Coppers last a lot more than a couple of thousand km's. I had my last set for 15,000 km with no issues. My A/F ratios are on a flat 12:1 so it gets hotter than a stock car would. Only reason they were changed was b/c they were suspected of causing the misfire which turned out to be the coil packs. I put the old ones back in b/c I cracked a few new ones from over tightening and the car felt no different. (new ones were in for a few hundred km's then removed again b/c they were not gapped properly.) Iridiums do last much longer, but on a street driven car, they are a waste of money IMHO.

there is a screw in the handle, covered by a plastic cap. remove that. Then I believe there are screws at the bottom of the door trim, remove those. Then I believe the control panel pops out (with a bit of force), and the door trim needs to be poped off. Once you have poped all the clips on the trim, lift it, and pull out to remove. There may or may not be plastic covering the door at this point, careful not to damage it. Look around for the actuator (most likely black) but it is a plastic thing with a rubber boot on the end that has the rod connected. Then follow previous instructions. install door trim the opposite way you removed it.

Sorry - door trim. The whole thing on the inside. Once you get it off, you will see an actuator with a thin metal rod coming out of it. That rod is connected to another via a small bracket that uses screws to hold them together with friction. This bracket will be loose and you will need to tighten it.

yeah, easy to fix. take drivers door skin off and you will see the problem

if the alarm still arms / disarms then the actuator in the drivers door has come loose. R33's didn't come with an actuator in the drivers door, and the passenger door doesn't lock / unlock unless the drivers door does. The actuator is hooked onto the metal rod that controls the door locking mechanism. If the actuator is not grabbing this rod properly, then this problem can happen. If you can hear the actuator moving from lock to unlock position, but the lock itself is not moving, then this sounds like the problem... If not, then it is probably something else.

Thanks for tha anyhow... apreciated.

Don't mean to drag the issue of the coils on, but when mine were *REALLY BAD* (all 6 crackd, and 1 had a missing spring, and the contact surface oxidized - went completely green), the car would not go past 3,500 - 4000 rpm at all. Not even if you pushed it. They connected it up to nissan consult, and no error codes. On visual inspecion the cracks could not be seen on this particular set of coils. I swapped them with a set that had huge cracks, and were covered in Araldite. I still have that set of coils in there now. How did you test/check coils? (Just to be sure)

yeah, thats pretty much it...

i think he means, that he regrets not trying the Araldite trick before spending cash on a new set.

Before spending any cash, I would look into the following things - cleaning AAC (cold start) valve - check earth wiring on fuel pump. - check Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) All of these topics are covered already on the forum, so some searching will help you get some more detail. The first is very common on all EFI cars as they get on with age, and the second is common on skylines/nissans at the least, as I know they reduce the current to the fuel pump on idle, which can cause these problems if your wiring has coroded. good luck

I remeber when I was watching a jap DVD - drift bible, the rx-7's braking and cornering abilities were horrible. The difference between the rx7 and the GT-R in this area was considerable. I remeber someone that owned an EVO for a while was telling me how the build quality was poor. (No complaints about performance). Some points you may want to take into account, but you should really drive both cars well before you make your decision.

The most common R33 misfire problem is due to cracked coils. This usually causes the car to run rich though, not lean. Anyhow give this solution a try, it will only cost you $5 or $10 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=51046 Also gap your spark plugs down to 0.8 mm if you haven't already.

yeah, the araldite trick has worked like a charm for over 5000 km now. I have no miss what so ever.... I only covered the cracks, and all 6 of my plugs were cracked....

Engineered with a brake upgrade???? There must be something wrong with it for them to let go of it at that price.... otherwise, what a bargain!!! Let me know if it is still available.... I still might fly up and buy it!!!

same here... Actually quite happy with the ultimates on a street driven car. They dont make a sound. Brake dust is quite bad though.

Here are pics...

Am I not reading it right, or did that van just pull an 11sec 1/4 mile pass???

Hi Neill, Coppers actually produce a stronger spark as copper is a better conductor. Iridium plugs do last longer, and I believe are used in some cuircut cars b/c they they can withstand higher temperatures.

email to zahos77[at]gmail.com and will post pics up for you

look up automotive paint in the yellow pages. I've been to a few shops that mix, match, and put in a can for you...

BTW, LANFOH, you should get them to replace your clutch. Rattling springs doesn't sound normal to me. The longer you wait, the harder it will be....

OK so I found out what the loud clank was when reversing. I could not believe it when I discoverd it whilst washing my car... The bonnet was loose.... B/c reversing forces the front end down, the bonnet would go down, them spring back up and make the noise as it tapped the latch. So I re-adjusted the latch, and the 2 rubbers on each corner of the bonnet to the point where it was a tight fit, and noise gone....