usuckpoo

Hey dude, unless u can honestly say u know of every nut and bolt in a skyline, dont go ard blasting others abt what they dont know. Im pretty sure you wouldnt like such a reply if u posted a question abt sumthing u didnt know either.....

Btw is that illegal? A mate of mine had something similar to that on his s14....got pulled over by the cops for it....

Deleted by Neil,,,please read the Rules.

MEEE!!

Apologies for not stating myself properly....i too believe firmly believe that import agents would have substantially more experience in vehicle inspection than the average joe(me). The point i wish to express is that nothing exudes more confidence and assurance than having seen and inspected the car in the flesh. Yes i have seen inspection reports and must admit that they are resonably concise, but the problem is that everyone generates different expections from simply viewing pics of the car alone, and some are dissappointed when the actual car does not meet those expections. In this case here perhaps i should probably explicitly define that term "risk" as used in my previous thread, as the chance of ending up unhappy with your purchase. (im pretty sure this "risk" would then be higher when purchasing a car through an agent...a car u have not seen before... compared to purchasing it locally) Personally, i would rank the following purchase methods in the following order: Private local owner, import agent, import yard (i think they are mostly rip offs too) Finally, after some consideration of your input, i do admit that saying all or most of the imports have been clocked is a little extreme...but many of the imports i've seen are in conditions that are unlikely to match the stated mileage...perhaps this should be viewed on a case by case basis i guess, since owner care plays a large part in the condition of the car.

Rule of thumb: If u drive a hot car watch where u park. Well that means all the skylines Dont ever leave your car on the street overnight. I dont It does help to live in a good neighbourhood.... upmarket areas always have significantly less theft rates. If you are really worried abt the car getting stolen, remove the ecu(leave the kick panel open for these occasions) when u leave the car at high risk areas. Sounds extreme but it might actually save ur car one day. No ecu means the car wont start no matter what. (unless the punks drive a skyline too)

Thats precisely what the govt wants to do- discourage imports.

I would tink that there are alot less risks involved when purchasing the car locally....since you would be able to personally inspect the car urself. (Of cos u need to know what u r looking at in the first place). Every car looks great in photos so its hard to guage condition simply from looking at pictures....thats the danger involved with importing a car youself i guess. Of cos the problem with import yards is that they either have heaps of junk tidied up to look spanking new....or a real jewel which u'd have to pay through your nose for. I personally believe that most, if not all of the older imports that enter the country have had their mileages clocked. Think about how difficult it would be to achieve 65k on a 8 year old car....you would barely have to drive it.....its not to say its impossible, but just look at the sheer number of imports that have listed mileages between 65k and 85k and you would start to question it.

Deleted by Neil,,,Please read the Rules.

Free Bump!

For 78k i'd jump at it heee:p

free bump!

bump! price negotiable!

Bump

u haf pm

Ermm thats kinna hard to explain isnt it? The best way i can describe it is that it sounds more intense than a turbosmart bov. Gives u the impression that the bov is releasing alot of pressure.

Greetings, I have the above mentioned for sale, off an R34 GTT, very new. Comes with a bolt on adaptor to suit R33/R34 GTST (not sure if it fits directly onto a R32 GTSt) $350 ono. Interested parties please email me at [email protected] BOV will be available from 30th July onwards once its removed from the car. Sydney buyers prefered cos im in sydney! Thanks.

Ultimately the odometer is perhaps one of the most unreliable ways to judge the condition of a japanese import. As mentioned before by some guys, interior condition is a much better guage. More importantly, it highlights the fact that the owner in japan has taken care of the car, regardless of how far the car has travelled. IMHO the best way to guage the mileage on the car is the sheer age of the car- Think about it, unless its a gtr, the car is most likely to have been the owners primary mode of transport. (Even then a GTR could be primary mode of transport) An average daily driver does abt 15-25 thousand kms a year. If you have a 95 gtst that claims to have 80000 on the clock, it works out to be 10000km a year. Which is rather low for a daily driver. Of course there are always exceptions to the case, and there are a few lucky few whose cars have not been wound back. But think about it: How many of us put a mere 10000km on our daily driven cars per year? Whats the likelihood that the car(suppose its a gtst) was a japanese owner's 2nd car during its life in japan?

Greetings Kris, I'll be in the market for one as well towards the end of the year when i return to Sydney. My personal opinion is, at 90-100k most of the R34 GTRS are still rather overpriced. (No offense to anyone here please!) The premium seems to stem from the very fact that they are 1. An R34 and not an R33 2. Yes, they are a GTR Yes, most importers are asking 110-130k for these, but i reckon its a rather big ripoff. If you look at the going rate for late model 97/98 R33 GTRs, i've seen them going for 50k, to as high as 70 at some dealers for them. While i do understand that the R34 should command a premium, 20k on top of a car that is only a year older (a 98 r33 gtr) is too much, esp when most of the r34 gtrs are 99 models, which are already almost 4 yrs old. Fellow forumers have informed me that i might be able to find more reasonable deals in unique cars, however as i am not in the country i am unable to purchase these for verification. I have come across some rather good deals on them before though. Common economic sense might mean i will only end up with a late model R33 GTR, unless i can find a 34 for reasonable money. (well i wont pay 100k for a 99 gtr even if i had the dough) On another note, the nissans wont be able to match the build quality of ur audi. Yes, the interiors of the r34 are a marked improvement over the older generation, but still nothing much to brag abt, other than the fancy screen which i must admit i really love hehe. Regardless, pple buy GTRs for other reasons besides build quality. Im pretty sure a near stock or stock gtr will have your s3 for lunch. Insurance will defintely me more on a GTR than on an S3, so be prepared for that. Good Luck with your purchase! Please do keep us updated on the progress!

Hmm u r right, must admit i wrote that in haste. heheh Please ignore!

Prob feels like a T04 on any rb20det i'd say. Double the airflow but Potential will be limited by that 1 bar barrier.

I guess the major cost in this project that would be incurred is the labour involved in engineering such a setup to work properly. Of cos thats somewhat irrelevant here since your dad works in the firm. For the typical enthusiast out there, such a project would not economical, since the labour cost would overwhelm everything esle. But for someone in your shoes, i guess it would be the natural thing to do, since rb20 turbos are rather cheap, as well as the rest of the parts involved. IMHO u might need to stick to 2 wastegates to get more accurate boost control, but i may be wrong here. Always good to have something out of the ordinary... do keep us updated!

Allow me to clarify... Any racetrack that goes in a loop is going to have more corners in one direction compared to the other. Most tracks require u to travel in a clockwise motion(hence more right handers), meaning the tires on your passenger side will wear faster. Due to the rapid deterioration of the rear tires in a car being driven "drift style" (if such a term actually exists), the difference in wear rate between the left and right wheels is further amplified. The result of this is that the passenger side wheels have significantly less tread (or no tread at all) compared to the drivers side. This amounts to a difference in rolling diameter(the issue currently being discussed concerning ATTESA), and hence the problem of the car pulling to one side when the lsd fully locks up under power and giving an equal distribution of torque to both wheels Of course this does not happen when both wheels have similar thread depths

Thats precisely the problem I've seen stock ones go for 70k, or as much as 140... thats a huge difference which cannot simply be attributed to mileage or condition. So how do we determine whats the right market price as there are so few(relatively) of them out on the market?

Munro... Just wondering which among the 3 gtrs do u drive the most?