CEF33Y

Tell me about it! My brother has a 2jz JZX 90, and runs pretty much a single breather hose into an always empty coke bottle. I'd never thought much about the oil being forced though the valve stems into the combustion chamber. I think while I'm welding the head drain/vent fitting to the sump, I might add another couple of fittings for some more vents.

See, this is why I still come here. Actual info/feedback. Awesome. Ahh, that makes sense re filter now that I think about it. So, still my fault, as I kept thrashing with excessive blowby 😆. The top of the pistons are "black" I need to update this with some photos. Is there a direct correlation between compression and blowby? I.e I didn't think 150ish compression was bad. (Even though the FSM quotes compression to be 174psi/300rpm) The restrictors/head studs etc was in prep for the elite 2500+ flex sensor install, so still going ahead, just need to sort out the bottom end first. Rabbit hole well and truly breached... haha.

Thread bump! Engine/Car: RB25DET Type of failure: Broken ring lands, damaged rod bearing Factors influencing the failure: Possibly self inflicted, I made changes AFTER I had it tuned... Pod filter replaced airbox State of tune of the engine: 265rwkw. Vipec plugin, hypergear turbo, 750cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, direct FP feed, cooler, exhaust, remote oil cooler. Suspension and tyres: Drift setup Oil used and service interval: Penrite 10 10ths 10-40w changed prior to every track day (<1000km) General comments: Bit of a weird one. Car has had blowby (only on the track) since I had it tuned. It's a street/drift car. Street driving it is fine, doesn't use/burn oil. On the track, I was filling my 500ml (yes, I know it's a bit small) catch can in 5 laps of QR big track. Compression was 152-156 across all 6. 265rwkw, 20psi, car still ripped. I assumed blowby was just RB things. Tried splash covers and mines style sponges under the rocker covers. No change. Planned to pull the head off, do restrictors, head drain/vent and head studs, new gasket. Got head off, and No.6 had some det evidence and the slightest deformation on the exhaust side of piston. All bores look pretty good, with cross hatching still visible in parts . Motor was out of the car, so pulled No.6 to have a look, and a chunk of ringland was loose, between rings, about 40mm long. No.5 was the same No.3 and 4 were ok No.2 Broken same as 5,6 No.1 cracked (1 vertical crack in ringland) No.2 rod bearing was showing some copper (still feels smooth, crank feels ok also), the other bearings look good. I have no Idea how it was still running, let alone drifting. Last drift's were pretty full on (QR matsuri) but did about 500km of street driving since that. Now after it was tuned, I changed the air filter from an airbox, to a shielded pod filter. Seat of the pants it felt the same, and audibly couldn't hear any det, but I may have caused this one I reckon. I'm guessing it' had some lean condition/Det, and that's what caused the broken ringlands. No.2 rod bearing is a bit odd though, why only No.2? Still in teardown and measure stage, to work out next steps.

Stock (old!) CAS, It is very inconsistent. will try the timing check and see what I can find. Thanks

Thanks guys, Yes I have a spare input and pressure sensor, will set it up for fuel pressure and see what its doing.

Not over boosting, boost control is setup through ecu, but have a gauge with recall, I’ve seen 21-22psi before. When it pinged, didn’t get there, was around 17psi. Yep that’s the train of thought I’m on. (Fuel supply) Will sort out a fuel pressure gauge, I think my Defi meter has provisions for another pressure sensor, will also check voltage getting to pump. Thanks

Hey guys. Have an issue with my r33. Lately (last 2 tanks) has been Randomly pinging/ knocking on boost. When I first heard it, backed off straight away. Temps seemed fine and was driving fine off boost, almost as it hit full boost, would ping. Suspecting shit fuel, put in some octane booster, and that seemed to fix it. Fueled up at a different servo, and was going better than ever, zero knocks. Put it down to shit fuel. Current Tank is about 1/4 full, rolled on in third coming home tonight and it pinged again. Car drives fine, and exactly the same everywhere else, no strange noises, temp is fine. Car has a Vipec plugin, deutchworks 255l/h fuel pump with 14v feed, splitfires, hyper gear turbo, pretty basic setup. 260ish rwkw, Tuned by Mitch (of haltech) Car has been the same for the last 2.5 years, parts were new (apart from ecu) at tune time. Both times it’s happened now, it’s been between 1/4tank and a 1/3 tank of fuel, unsure if that’s linked. Initially thought maybe a shit fuel pump, but thought that would be more consistent From what I gather the Vipec plug ins don’t have knock protection? Either that if mines not setup. Will have to head back to tuners I think. I’m guessing if I can hear knock, it’s probably already doing damage. After first tank with knocking, pulled plugs out (all looked normal) and did compression test, 165-170 across all 6. Top of pistons looked unmarked. Bloody intermittent issues! Anyone had a similar intermittent knocking issues/things I should check? Cheers

Looks like it would blow the tires off at lower RPM. Excellent.

Hey guys, feel free to add any info to the thread if you feel its relevant, thats the best part about forums. So, updating, as the box is back in the car, and to give the thread some closure. Much anticipation I started car, and slowly released clutch, aaaand the noise is still there. Bugger. Probably a bit better, but hasn't "fixed" the noise. So ultimately its got to be the gearset. I also put a new syncro in 2nd gear, and the shift into second feels better, so along with the experience of actually rebuilding a box, it wasn't a complete waste of time (pretty close though, haha). Plan from here is to keep driving/drifting with this box until it lets go, then probably buy new. I don't think "low km second hand" boxes exist anymore. And I'm not making the power where I think a gearset is warranted. Thanks for the advice/help guys

Bit late to reply, But yeah, the CBC kit I got came with the sealed bearings, on which I've removed the seals. Just got it back together last night, hope to have it back in the car tomorrow. Pretty happy with the CBC kit, even came with 1st gear bush (which looked average on mine, burred on the edge where it looks like they've used an ill fitting pipe to drive it on). Someone has had this apart before and did a average job putting it back together. The needle bearings on 1st and 2nd gear felt terrible as I was pulling it down, and popped the seal off the (old) bearing in the center plate and there was alot of black deposit, and the oil in there was much darker than the oil drained from the Gbox. Anyway, will see if the gbox noise has gone soon enough!

Sold

sold pending

Well yeah, that's right, there are not many "cheaper" options. Most things across the board have gone up. Just means if I bend it in half I'll cry alot, not a little

Guys I've got a used Velo GPT-2 fixed back for sale. (see Velo site for size chart, GPT-2 is XL) Its just too tight for me. Its in fair condition (one small, 5mm hole in material), missing the bottom cushions, which can be bought from Velo. Structurally its good. Comes with alloy side mounts. Located Bomaderry/Wollongong. $300

You know, while I should be happy about the value of my car going up (way up!) I use mine as a street/drift car, and I've always had a mental limit of $10k for cars I take on the track (incase I bend it). I kinda have second thoughts thrashing the ring out of it now! Oh and to the OP, like others have said, double the purchase price of the car, that's what the true cost will be.