CEF33Y

Obviously that's just a RB25 timing belt cover? you don't have VCT working on the 20 do you? haha. Keenly awaiting results

In reply to the original question, have you checked nothing blew off when you did the pressure test, that would cause it to not make boost? I.e any hose connected to the cooler pipes/intake manifold?

Nice 32! I was contemplating a RB25NEO conversion into my RB20 cefiro. I was planning to keep my ecu (nistune) loom etc, and run a msd window switch for the vct, As far as wiring, pretty sure most things are like for like, apart from the CAS, which is reversed, Pretty sure I found instructions on SAU

Eagerly awaiting your results! Here I was about to change to a RB25..... haha.

We have a R33 sedan as a daily, stock looking (set of v35 coupe rims is about the only mod). Its not an expensive car and I haven't poured hours into modifying it, so I don't mind dailying it. Comp insured and a decent alarm and I'm pretty much ok with leaving it anywhere. I do have secure parking at work though, so its not like its sitting on a street for 8hrs a day. My Cefiro though is different, still use it for work( securely parked) and weekend drives, but I don't leave it anywhere else where I cant see it.

GTR wheels Hey guys, I'm chasing some GTR wheels. Prefer R34, must have centre caps and in a factory colour. Will also consider R33 gtr wheels, but again would prefer factory colour and centre caps. Location, Wollongong/sydney/nowra. Cheers

Its been said above ^^^ but jeezus that cover looks good!

Yes, I've been using Caltex for the last 3 years, as that's what the car was tuned with. From 4 different sites over a distance of 75km (2 near home, 2 near work) Car has had the soot/deposits since last tune, earlier this year, when I changed the exhaust. Only recently, past month, I've been running shell/bp, again from 3 different sites, 2 near work, one at home. E85 has only became avaliable between work and home, but its only one servo, and not a united servo, although I've heard it is united fuel. Maybe a flex fuel setup is on the cards.

In my case it wasn't, "yeah, the car got 30km more this tank and is running nicer", but a nice visual reminder every time I look at the back of the car that something has changed with a different fuel. I understand, its so subjective. But I guess its worth changing fuels until you find one, if any that may suit your car better. Worked for me.

Yeah, Its interesting! Of the two caltex in town, one had a revamp around 4-5 years ago (unsure if they did the tanks) but the other servo is a brand new site, and I predominantly used the brand new site. My fuel economy hasn't changed, so cheering.

Difference in 98 fuels Hey guys, Not sure if its worthy of a thread, but thought I'd tell the world anyway, as its made my day, haha. When I had my car tuned, I made sure I was running caltex 98, (as at the time the only servo's open early when I leave for work were caltex servo's) And by habit, have always tended to use Caltex. Latest tune I went to a single cell cat, (still predominately using caltex) and the amount of black deposit's on the back of the car was alarming. One return trip to work, 150km, and it was noticeable. 4 return trips and you'd have to use degreaser to move it. By chance happened to fuel up with BP, then Shell twice in a row, and had washed the car prior to this, and noticed less deposits. I've fuelled up a further 4 times (2 with BP, 2 with Shell) and the car basically has no deposits on the back anymore! And the car seems to feel more crisp on light throttle. Driving habits have not changed Haven't changed a single thing on the car. Boost controller hasn't been touched. Car feels better off boost, and still feels awesome on boost Weather has been similar. I'm still trying to think if anything else would have caused this, but seriously, the only thing that has changed is the fuel. To confirm I really should go back to caltex for 6 or so tanks, see if the deposits come back, but kinda like not having to de-grease the back of the car after a weeks driving. I haven't spent any time looking into where the fuel comes from, i.e what brand comes from what refinery, but pretty happy with the result of changing fuels regardless! Maybe I should head back to the dyno with a fresh tank of BP/Shell, and see if I can find that 10rwkw I lost.... haha

pm sent

Love the Blue on GTS-T's! looks in pretty good condition too.

I've got a cefiro, so not a gtr. But, I run a 52mm rad with the stock shroud and fan. Had a few drama's with the fan hitting the shroud. I machined some new lower bushes out of nylon, and made new brackets for the top with no bush. Haven't had a issue since. Car is used for drifting so gets a bit of a thrashing. Tried twin thermo's early on, and they were shit. Granted, they weren't expensive ones, but stock fan and shroud is simple, and it works. Oh and don't underestimate how much the stock fans flex, I had a Z32 fan (greater offset, but had one lying around) on after the thermo's shat themselves , had a decent 15mm gap fan to rad and it still grabbed the radiator at high rpm.

The difference between my cefiro (230-240rwkw RB20) and my daily (Stock RB25DET R33 sedan) is huge, on the street. Cefiro needs revs, and lots of them. It is laggy. R33 feels like its on boost instantly, comparably, obviously with less up top, which, as GTSboy said, is where it counts for a street car. Then I drive the missus TT 300ZX and wonder what the F*%k I'm doing with an RB20 Haha. All depends what you like. I don't really mind the lag, can still putt around off boost, and is fine for the track (drifting). Would piss me off if I had to drive it in traffic everyday though.

Cheers

Speaking of Non VCT, low cr engines, did you ever end up doing any development with an RB20 Tao?

Update time! Have been on a more drift orientated site lately, but still want to keep this updated, its a good way to see where the car has come from. First off, check this out. Was browsing one of the japan auction sites and stumbled on this cefiro (no, its not mine!). Now a white cefiro, with uras and buddy club p1's is nothing mind blowing, but to have the same kit, tail lights, rims, in the same colour??!! haha there is a Japanese version of me in Japan, even the bootlid seems to be a bit off color like mine! Car at auction My car at wakefeild Anyway, ended up selling the buddy clubs, and going to some work rezax, 18x9.5 +21 fronts and 18x10.5 +31 rears. Painted my spare bonnet and fresh uras bar, clear indicators. Installed a roof wing Much happier with the all white look, and new wheels. Mechanically, changed the fuel pump, installed a 1 bar actuator to try and hold the boost better up top, and found an apexi A31 front mount kit. Was kinda weird installing a front mount kit that actually bolted up, usually with cefiro's its a modified r32/33 jobbie. Kinda fanboi'd over the cooler, and assumed it would be better (cause its a japanese brand, right?) than my china core and return flow piping. Ended up heat wrapping the pipework, looks a bit neater than the blue. Went for a retune and lost 10rwkw. Was kinda bummed cause I'd thought my cooler and more boost mods would make some more power, but to drive it on the road, it pulls harder, right to the limiter, so pretty happy with it. Tuner thinks it could be the heavier wheels making the difference. Main reason for the retune was to give it a good check over before the drive to QLD for the drift Matsuri. Loaded the car up, picked up a mate on the way, and started the 14hr drive to Ipswitch! Mate had a broken leg, but was not missing matsuri, so toughed it out, haha. Lucky the weather wasnt too hot. QLD raceways still let him go as a passenger too, haha Got there thursday night, recovered from the drive friday, went and signed in, set up garage friday arvo, ready for the weekend. Had so much track time, car went awesome on the saturday, then third run sunday, shifted to third on last corner and it didn't quite feel right, then the smell of burnt clutch filled the cabin. Let it cool down for a bit, but would slip hard when the clutch was kicked, but ok driving normal. By this stage it was 11am, and with only track time till 4pm, decided to pack up early. Didnt feel like finding, then changing a clutch at the track, anyway, had a mad time, got to drift with my brother, who's chaser went awesome. We've both been into drift for years, but actually not drifted much together, so that was pretty cool. Headed home monday, and made it back to Newcastle before the party lights came on in the mirror. The officer was quite good about it, even if it was a bit low (mainly due to the spares, it was loaded riiiiiight up) So around a 2600km round trip, which included 1.5 days of thrashing, and apart from the clutch, the car went awesome, pretty stoked about that! That pretty much gets us up to date. Next on the list is a clutch, and some sort of catch can, as I notice the cooler pipes (mainly post cooler) have some oil seeping out of the joiners. I've still got the breathers hooked up as per factory. Did a comp test before the retune and was 150 +-2psi across the board, and turbo is fine, so I think its just thowing its out the breathers. Might lose 2-4mm on the dipstick every 4-5k, so its not much, but want to see if I can sort it. I've only just (like last night) went to a 10-50w oil, instead of a 10-40w to see if that helps reduce it. PCV valve has been cleaned too. No drift days planned, as I'm not much of a skid pan fan, and wakefeild has stopped drifting, so not many close options for me. Just enjoying driving it normally is enough these days, still high on my Matsuri Vibe, haha

Internet fight is strong in this thread. What's on in December at Bathurst again?

When filling jerry cans, its always recommended to put them on the ground, (due to static elec i think) So filling the drum, thats in the back of you're car, nope, would not do. Plus, as above, Its illegal. Local servo actually has still shots of its camera's of some bloke filling a jerry in the back of his ute, and it catches alight, scary stuff! From a quick google search, the total fuel you're allowed to carry with a car is 250l, including car's fuel tank, and It has to be mounted outside the car. http://www.whatsupdownunder.com.au/News/Tips-Hints/Carrying-Extra-Fuel/Jerry-Cans-February-2015 No idea how accurate this is though.

How are you going to get a full drum (around 200kg?) into the back of your territory? Not something I'd do, if it starts leaking could make a mess real quick.

Sounds like you need a new turbo guy!

Guys, Looking to move states soon, so thinking of selling my 1990 Cefiro. The bad: Paint on bonnet and boot and front bar is a different white, passenger guard has a few chips near the edge of guard, and the skirts and rear bar have a few small chips. Still presentable, see pics for current condition. Engine mods : Stock internal RB20 Hypergear highflow op6 turbo sard 800cc injectors Nistune Cam gears (still at 0) Walbro (with direct feed power) 3 inch exhaust Apexi A31 intercooler kit. Metal intake Z32 afm. Stock airbox Profec b EBC Alloy rad. Silicon radiator hoses. Recently had a check up tune with Unigroup and made 230rwkw. This was down from 240rwkw when I initially did the power mods. Tuner said it may have been due to bigger (heavier) wheels. I had 17x9 inch bubby clubs, and went to the work 18x10.5. Either way, it actually drivers way better on current tune, holds full boost right to the redline. Did have a concern at one stage that there was metal in the oil, but the recent oil changes have been fine, suspect dregs in the pan was from my previous flogged out falcon. (plus engine sounds good) RB25det gearbox Excedy single heavy duty Cusco 2 way with 4.3 gears S15 front knuckles with r33 LCA'S R33 brakes all round with new pads front and rear. Front calipers have had the "Nissan" shaved off for wheels clearance. BC coil overs Front caster rods 5mm Slip in rack spacers Rear camber arms Rear cradle alloy spacers (not bushes) Hicas deleted, hicas lock bar installed. Uras front side and rears, with new spare sides and rear, and cracked front bar. Roof wing Wheels 18x9.5 +21 fronts (225 40 18) 18X10.5 +31 rears (235 40 18) Work rezax, these are in pretty good nick. Can sell for cheaper without wheels. S15 front seats Dish steering wheel Nismo gear nob Dash has a bubble, Left hand vent there and intact Water temp gauge and oil pressure gauge in centre consol. Now the car is engineered, under the new engineering rules. This was done due to needing engineering for rego (as it was previously rego'd in a different state). So it is engineered for 5 stud, suspension mods, exhaust, cooler, steering wheel etc 225 40 18, and 235 40 18 tires Nistune, highflow turbo, injectors, etc (power mods) are not on the engineers. I've never had any probs with the police. Rego until may. Can put 6 months rego on by negotiation. After $11 000, ono PM for more pics please, Located Between Wollongong (work) and Nowra (home) NSW.

Yeah, I notice a difference in hitting "full boost" on the street compared with my dyno sheet. The way you load it up makes a big difference, well in my case. But I have a turbo that is too big for the engine.

Yeah, Once I found out shannons do greenslips, been going there ever since, Usually less than $400. Found out when I rang to get my car insurance policy number for another insurer's green slip, and they said, we can beat that price. I do have compreshensive insurance on all (3 imports) cars with them, and am 34, so maybe that helps.