CEF33Y

Also, get some of the nissan tab washers, these things I've never had my turbo nuts come loose. Make sure you've got a genuine manifold to turbo gasket and you'll never have to touch those nuts again.

On the g'box (25det) oil I just use castrol vmx80. 3 years of daily driving and prob 3 or 4 drift days a yr, box still feels the same. Changed every 20k. Previously used redline, on a box that had a near dead 2nd gear syncro, and it made the problem almost go away. But I concur with the above, if you're box is still good, don't use redline.

I would legit sell a kidney for one of those r31 house manifolds, far out they look good.

Yeah, fair calls. Prob more me putting a number in my head before hand And just measured coolers, old is 450x300x75, new is 500x230x65, with 25% less 'rows' Thanks for the replies!

Yeah I've changed wheels, now run a 235 40 18 from a 235 45 17. I didn't choose the cooler because it was smaller, but did not expect it to affect it as much. In the hyper gear thread everyone is anti return flow cooler, thought I'd see some gains, even with a slightly smaller ( but "better quality")cooler. And tbh it was a kinda impulse buy, as it's a cefiro specific kit, which is rare as, had all the brackets and such. oh well if I can be stuffed I'll put the old core back on, go for a touch up tune. Or start researching decent coolers. The pwr one in the hypergear looks good, but dang, bit pricey

Hey guys, So after almost 2 years, I went back for a touch up tune (same tuner, same dyno) as I'd changed a few things. Got a result I wasn't expecting. So initial tune: Stock RB20, OP6 hypergear highflow 3 inch turbo back with catco cat china 500X300X75 cooler, with return flow piping (turned 180 degrees with a 75mm radius off drivers side of cooler) Stock coil packs Stock actuator, preloaded 5mm. Z32 Sard 800cc Nistune. GTR/z32 fuel pump with feed from battery Profec b boost controller Made 240rwkw, full boost (20psi) at 4900, tapering off to 17-18 at 7000rpm. So things I changed/added Punched cat. Apexi front mount kit, 2.5 inch piping, core looks is smaller, bar and plate I believe? New cooler v's old Splitfire coil packs (standard ones started breaking down) New fuel pump, walbro 255 (old one got noisy) 14.7psi actuator. Now I had changed the actuator and cat to try and hold boost better up top, which it has done, but response and overall power is down. Topped out at 230rwkw, and coming on boost around 500rpm later. holding 21ish psi to the redline (graph is in car, I'll try and post it tomorrow). It is holding boost right to the limiter now. It feels a bit lazier onto boost, but feels better revving right out, (doesn't nose over like before) With better boost control (and higher boost!) and better spark, less restrictive exhaust, less restrictive cooler piping/cooler (maybe?? haha) I was aiming for a increase, or at least match what I made before. *I understand the dyno is just a tool, and not back to back testing one thing at a time can be inconclusive, let alone 2 tunes almost 2 years apart, but seat of pants dyno backs up dyno sheet, less response, less power. Compression test came up between 149-153 across all 6, tuner said mechanically car is good. Thoughts? Is my cooler too small? restrictive? Wouldn't have thought it would be a restriction up too 250rwkw

Yeah, taking the wife's car for its monthly drive, lol

Looks good on the road! Just spotted heading out currarong way

Mine makes 240rwkw. Which pretty much what I expected with my mods at the time. Dyno graph is on the last page of the RB20 dyno result thread. Curve looks good until you look at rpm scale, haha. I had return flow pipework with a generic china cooler. Still had a 3 inch cat in place, and using a r32 airbox, opened up on on side. I had to get my car engineered for rego, so wanted to stick with a standard looking engine bay. My tuner (Unigroup) mentioned using a wastegate spring around 5psi less than target boost, so thats the reason for going with a 15psi actuator. Tune is next monday, keen to see how it goes. Might even take a pod filter along, see if I can do a back to back with airbox v's Pod.

Quoted so I could like this twice. Truth.

Cool build mate, just read it all. With your boost issues (not hitting full boost untill 4th or 5th) I've got the same issue with my car. I rarely see full boost unless I load it up (like a big hill, or doing a foot on) in 2nd My car is a bit different, Its a RB20 with a hypergear OP6 highflow, (stock manifolds, return flow cooler, etc) but I'm guessing similar characteristics to your's i.e Turbo thats probably a smidge too big/standard manifolds/restrictive front mount When I got the turbo, the actuator was preloaded by a few mm (mounting holes slotted) And it had 17psi written in black marker. We found on the dyno it was opening at 10psi. I had a profec b, so was able to tweak it a bit, but still had some boost dropping up top. I dont know how/what the 17psi meant on the actuator, it was written on when I had it highflowed. Pretty happy with the turbo though, its probably too big for my RB20, so I kinda expected the issues im having. Anyways, I've gone to a 15psi actuator, apexi front mount, super high flow cat and heading back to the tuner in a couple of weeks, will be interesting to see the results. Are you going to head back to JEM once you fit the actuator?

Well, appears you have a decent chance of getting a refund. Best of luck, at least you know what to buy next!

While not defending yellowjackets (I run splitfires). What does the product claim to do? I just did a quick google and found this description from a dealer Increase in torque. - No spark blowout at higher boost. - Improved throttle response and smoothness. - Increased Ignition Performance. - Improved Combustion. - Direct Fit. - 2 Year Warranty. - Solid Construction. - Cost effective. Unsure if you have a basis for a refund, unless of course you could do a back to back with another brand, but even then, claims such as "no spark blow out at higher boost" leaves it wide open, what is high boost? 12psi? or 24psi? Anyways, you could persist, or just realise they are known (by doing an hour research) to not work that well, and move on.

I've got a catco 3 inch cat, heading back to the tuner in a couple of weeks to get a retune with the cat now being single cell. So should give some insight into what type of restriction they cause, I have done a few other things though, so wont be an entirely accurate back to back from cat, to no cat. Have changed to a apexi front mount kit (non return flow type), added splitfires, new fuel pump, and "high flow" cat. Should be interesting to see what the OP6 highflow can do on my RB20 with these extra mods, previously was 240rwkw, will post results, tune is booked for 29th.

+1 for scottycustoms

Is this right Stao, or am I reading it wrong?

Is that last graph comparing normal 3 inch dump, to your dump with the "screamer" pictured?? So by the graph, you picked up ~45rwkw by doing the vent mod?

I made my own return flow piping with a normal style core. Pipe runs behind cooler, I run an aftermarket front bar so have alot of room though. In saying that I've recently changed to a Apexi front mount kit, with the traditional pipe run. Planning to get back to the dyno to see if it changed anything. Seat of the pants feels the same. Holding boost up top just the same. Boost controller obviously gets its feed post intercooler, so it should hold boost the same, but possibly pre intercooler boost level would be lower, if the cooler/pipework is more efficient. Car is running cooler, but pretty sure thats because of increased airflow around/through the cooler. My car made the power I was expecting for my combo with original china cooler and return pipework (even with that tight 180 deg bend), 240rwkw @ 20psi, dropping 2psi at redline So I never bothered measuring pressure drops across the core, or IAT's Keen to see what the dyno says though, Apexi cooler internals look a bit more "open" and more consistant than the china core.

Child restraint holes through the speaker grill??? lol. Read a bit of your thread mate, awesome car, love the colour, wheels, ride height. 10/10. I remember years ago in my S14 drift car I had 2 federals blow out, while still having decent tread left, and they split across the tire, very similar to yours. Scared the hell out of me, as I was in 4th at the time, so wheel speed was up, haha

Thats a shit go mate. Did the motor look like it had been opened? Would have thought you'd hear something if rod bolts were loose.

Any motul guru's here? Have one issue with my RB20, (ok maybe a few issues, not sure if they are linked) Mainly daily driving, with a few drift days thrown in. 240rwkw, No oil cooler. I've run motul oils since day dot with my RB20. I used to run turbolight 10-40w, Motor was quiet, oil pressure stayed pretty consistant, never exceeded 5k intervals. Then the name changed to HiTech 10-40w. Salesman assured me it was the same. Pretty much within the 5k on the HItech, it developed a lifter tick, only on start-up. But its inconsistent. Some mornings it will start with no noise, other times will have a pretty loud lifter noise, only for 1-2 seconds. Its been like this for a while, never overly bothered me, but thinking about trying a different oil. Unsure of what way to go with the weights. Is it too thin and draining out of the lifters? Or too thick and not getting there quick enough? Or not an oil issue (but lifter itself) due to the inconsistency? TL/DR Running 10-40 motul hitech, what oil/weights to try to quieten up a nosiy lifter on startup only?

Have you measured the bore yourself? not a machine shop issue?

sms sent, Keen on v35 wheels

Yeah I've still got the old oil, unsure what an analysis would tell me, unless the thrust bearing is a different material to a big end bearing? Couple of guys have suggested thrust bearing, will check endfloat this weekend. Still zero audible (by ear) noises. Did check turbo, looks all ok. Should just Yolo it, it is only an RB20, haha. Cheers for the replys

Yeah, will investigate a bit further, cheers