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Yeh but I want to get the engine running as efficiently as possible without changing fuels first

yeah well im gonna give the non anti-surge housing a go first and do a dyno run, then ill throw the 10cm rear housing on and see what it does. My tuner ( andy @ hyperdrive ) said that my high mount manifold has a really crap design, which is fair enough as its just a china spec ebay thing, i would get a 6-boost but i really cant afford that right now. Eventually ide like to get the 6 boost and a non-china wastegate to match, and also some cams. I want to hit 400+ on bp98 before i move to E85, i cant do E85 right now as im only running 550cc inj.

Well mine feels pretty crappy untill it hits boost, it's not even making 100hp @ 3500rpm

Will do, I already have the before dyno sheet up in the rb25 dyno thread, I'll do the after one as soon as I get in the dyno again, kinugawa has only just shipped my comp housing but i haven't orded the exh housing yet because I'm not sure if the larger exhaust housing is going to mean I need a new Vband exhaust setup, maybe it will need to be re made bigger ? Which I canT afford just yet.

i think i have the 8cm rear housing so i need this : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbine-Housing-Mitsubishi-TD06SL2-20G-T67-25G-10cm-T3-Flange-/291054104848?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43c42d3110 and this : http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/kinugawatd07t67-25g4turboanti-surgecompressorhousing-1.aspx

Mines making 20psi and 250rqhp at about 4700 rpm at the moment on 98 pump fuel, maybe changing to non anti surge housing will help , but what rear housing did you have ?

Oh really? I never realized this! From what i can see there is no replacement comp cover without the anti surge Might just have to sell this turbo then and go for something else. Generally speaking what would be the best kinugawa for 400rwhp on an rb25 these days? something that doesnt need 4000rpm to start spooling! Oh also it seems i have the smaller exhaust housing of the 2 that are available, would getting the bigger one make it more laggy ? it seems the anti surge is meant to act like somewhat of a blow of valve? very weird because when i got my car tuned i asked not to put a blow of valve on the pipework but it kept blowing of inter cooler pipes so we had to install one...

Just recently got my rb25 tuned ... I only got 350rwhp out of the td07 t25g with 10cm anti surge comp housing @ 18 psi... I was thinking its good for 400hp at those psi levels ? ... Any ideas why it didn't hit 400? Typical supporting mods, 550cc inj, z32 afm, powerfc, 3" dump intO twin 2.25 no cat, big fmic and forward facing plenum.

when you say it doesn't even try to start do you mean the starter motor itself doesn't move ? if thats the case then you need to check the wiring going to it, when i put my Rb25 into my silvia i re-done the alternator and start wiring, the starter should have the signal wire going from the IGN wire to the flat pin plug on the starter, and then just put a positive wire from the battery to the big bolt on the starter, im pretty sure thats how mine is. if the starter does crank but it doesn't actually fire on then check your CAS is plugged in as well the ECU and AFM, sounds simple but i forgot about these the first time i tried to turn mine on

Ok cool thanks for the reply man Well yeah ive always used what ever is on special in terms of oils, my last drift car only ever got the helix 18$ on special stuff and ran fine every day even with drift abuse. Either way i guess i was just being paranoid

Forgot to add my dyno sheet

Just checked again to see if it's cooled down , it's still freakin hot... My turbos exhaust housing is cooler than my rocker covers right now

Hi guys I just got my rb25 s13 back from the tuners and thought IDE give it a bit of a test run... Car info : made 350rwhp High mounted kinugawa OIL Cooled only FMIC mounted with ports at the top Have an oil cooler and relocation block Forward facing plenum Was running cheap penrite 20$ oil Ok so after letting it idle for a few minutes I went out or a quick drive, then came in and did a few donuts, snapped 2nd gear and done another few donuts, all up it was about 3 or 4 minutes worth of driving, after bringing it Back in the shop I noticed a oil leak so put it on the hoist and had a look under, my sump plug was hand tight and had no copper washer..... I think I forgot to put on one... What a tool! Anyway I took this opportunity to drop the cheap oil and throw in my penrite racing ten tenths oil, pulled off the sump plug and the oil started rushing out really really fast , it was almost like water and was extremely thin and black, keeping in mind the oil was brand new before Going To the tuners. In that few of driving and the few hours at the tuners could the oil have gotten so hot that it went black and burnt already ? After it was done draining I put a new sump plug with a copper washer and lowered the car to put my new oil in, at this point I noticed that my rocker covers and intake plenum were boiling hot, way to hot to touch for more than a few seconds...My oil filter was also boiling hot and the oil cooler was a bit warm, the intercooler was a bit warm. Is this all normal ? Could having an oil only cooled turbo be contributing ? Or am I just being paranoid ? Also completely unrelated I noticed that my front wheels do not spin freely , I'm pretty sure they are meant to ? Could my front Brakes be rooted ?

1989 Silvia S13 Unknown KMS Rb25 had rings replaced few years ago thats it KINUGAWA T25G Anti-Surge 4" - Comp. Whee: 60.2/78mm - Turbine Wheel: 54 / 61 mm China high mount manifold China front mount cooler China unknown size wastegate LOL China greddy copy plenum with non turbo Rb25 Throttle body 550cc Sards Bosch 040 intank 3" Dump into twin 2.25" Side pipes under passanger door PowerFC 98 BP fuel Turbosmart bleed valve boost controller 351.5Rwhp / 260RWKW

well i had it hooked up before like in the picture i posted ( the top right one ) and it didnt boost, so your assumption that it wouldn't work is probably correct, Hence why after switching the lines around to match the photo that 89CAL posted it works now. its not the first time ive received "instructions" with products that were wrong, my oil cooler instructions were wrong as well, probably lost in the translation from japanese > chinese > english with the china copies get done.