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Sorry forgot to say what car it is, it's a s13 Silvia , fully stripped and fitted with an rb25 , i can't see it weighing over 1100kg. It's purely for drifting and I only want them on the front , was hoping that because they are a street semi they might last me longer than a race compound, also there design allows for use in damp conditions. My main concern is weather I should have stuck to 17's and weather a 235 or 245 would have provide a lot more grip on the front , for the past year I've just been using cheap tyres like durun and sunny 235/45/17 as steer tyres, hoping that a reduction is size will balance out with the quality upgrade of tyre?

Hey guys I'm going to be using the ku36 kuhmos as steer tyres on the drifter just wonderig if anyone's had experience with them, I think they are more of a sticky stret tyre than a race compound, I'm restricted to 205/50/15 in size, main reason I wanted stickier tyres on the front is to reduce understeer

Thanks for the replies guys! i have put the afm back to just infront of the turbo instead of the T/B and it runs fine now, idles beautifully, untill it warms up then it hunts and runs a tad rough, but it does idle so im happy... I didn't realize moving the afm around would make such a big difference, i guess ill just get the tuner to relocate it when its ready for tuning. Thanks again.

So im the only one on the planet who has done this ?

Also just realized since my AFM is now directly infront of my T/b, my idle control valve ( the big port ) goes to an intercooler pipe BEFORE the afm...is that ok ? or does it need to go after ?

Unplugging 02 makes no change - Also bupassing turbo makes no Change -

Ok i have fixed vaccumm isuue , the gauge was dead so i put a new one and now reads vaccumm , still no boost though or idle though.... Unplugging tps changes nothing - Changine % values in pfc for injectors doesnt do anything either, have tried from 50% to 100% in 10% incriments and it doesnt help or even change thd way the engine runs ..

Yeh i programed the pfc for injectors - 66% at 0.19ms lag

Since this is another problem i thought ide make a new thread, Thanks to all those who replied in the catch can thread, I now have another problem, It was there before the catch can install as well.. This is the first proper time im getting this Rb25 running in my silvia and so far it doesnt seem to be boosting at all, Before i done the catch can / pcv block off it used to read vaccum, now its not even reading vaccum or boost, is this possible, will test another guage but its defiantly not boosting either way. it also doesnt idle, it needs a fair bit of rev to stay alive but im assuming its because its un-tuned? im running a z32 afm and 550cc injectors, ive changed the latency to the % listed in a thread i found on here somewhere, and pretty sure i wired up the z32 correctly, and ive selected the z32 afm in the PFC. things to note : relocated AFM to just before t/b - Blocked off PCV valve - Not running a boost controller ( have 18 psi spring in wastegate ) so have waste gate going directly to compressor side of turbo i have 2 photos if anyone spots something that isnt right please let me know.. Also a video of the car stalling since the video ive installed the radiator and fan, put on the catch can, put a pod on the turbo, replace the fuel lines, and thats about it...

Very informative post, thanks mate Well i have set it up andit seems ok, however ive run into a few other issues with the engine un-relating to the catch can ( i think ) but i will make a new thread for that

One more thing guys does it really matter if the can is higher than the ports? Ive read it needs to be below the t/b but with a ffp that means it has to be beliw the headlight??? Wich is not ideal

can is baffled, and its a drift car so oil fumes are the least of my "smelling" worries

Ok sweet i get it now hehe, only reason i didnt want filter on can is cause i was gonna have the can lying down flat and disnt want it to leak, but i think ill just have it standing up and do what you guys said. Thanks again fellas !

Sweet, i could also just put a breather on the yellow yeah? Red and yello are thd same pipes hey ?

Ok sweet thanks for the replies mate, forgot to add though, my catch can doesnt have a breather on it... can i still route it that way?

Im running a pod strait of turbo so no piping, and the maf is infront of the t/b. If i route yellow to intake wont the oil blow by stuff the maf up ?

Although this topic has been covered millions of times i couldent really find an easy diagram to follow, the d1 installation guide has tiny pictures and i couldent see how it was routed..... and most of the other photots ive used as reference had the stock intake manifold, i have a FFP.. I also have my MAF directly infron of my throttle body. so in the attached photo, can i : Block of the GREEN Split the red, into catch can Vent the yellow into an intake pipe or stick a little filter onto it ? OR Green port into 1 side of catch can, Then Split the red and have a t-piece, and put other side of catch can into the t-piece Vent the yellow into an intake pipe or stick a little filter onto it OR Green and Yellow into catch cans, and leave the red as is ?

wow ! some very informative posts in here! Ok i should have said what the engine is intended for! its going into a dedicated s13 drift car, ive gone from Rb20 to Rb25. I bassically bought the entire setup of a previous drifter, it made 400rwhp with a greddy plenum, highmounted garret 3076, 550cc injectors, z32 afm and tuned with powerfc. ill be running a TD06-25G for the moment as i dont want to buy a china 3076 and hopefully the kinugawa td06 survives long enough while i save for the 3076 anyway the engine will be dedicated drift car, How ever i want it to be reliable, i was able to push the rb20 @ 7500RPM for hours on end non stop on private prac days, when i say non stop i really mean hours on end NON STOP lol, and it loved it, but at the same time i didnt really care if it blew cause its a cheap engine, I want to be able to hammer the rb25 lap after lap without worrying about it exploding on me, so ide be willing to spend the extra cash on a rebuild kit if it genuinly means its a better product. Currently i have a bosch 040 intank pump, would i need to go twin pumps to guarantee a good fuel supply, or would i be better of with bigger injectors and a good pressure regulator, and of course a good tune! Will deffinatley look into doing this!

Hmmm interesting, so if i buy new rods / pistons i gotta take my crank and pistons / rods to a shop first to get balanced before installing ?

Currently have an Rb25 and at the moment its tuned to 400rwhp, Eventually im going to want to get more, probably 500-600 but i want to rebuild it first and was wondering if pretty much all the rebuild kits are the same? for example....Spool Vs CP Vs ROSS Vs Supertech ? Spool + CP kits come out around 2.1K and supertech is around 3k.... will ANY forged kit be good enough ?

Intercooler is 680X200X95, 2.5" Inlet/Outlet, Outlets on the same side like shown below. 100$ + shipping R33 GTR 440CC Injectors with Resister pack. 200$ + 12$ Shipping or pickup from NOR perth.

do you have to move everything to TDC and stuff before removing old gears or can you just remove them and line up dots?

Thanks mate! one is bigger than the other so im gonna go ahead and assume its the return, Thanks mate!

Hmm ok will check tommorow hopefully one is a bigger diameter than the other. What happens if i use the oil feed hole on the turbo as the return hole instead ? will it be ok as long as its on the bottom?

The other oil coonection on the bottom looks exactly the same as the one on the top thats why i was wondering how to identify it, like would the feed have a one way valve or something in it?