andylaurel

dont be soft gap them down with a feeler guage, a concrete floor and some gravity.

RB stands for Rotary (is) Better

legendary for its infamously crap oil pumps... the RB series of engine is 21 years old now. If they continued its production, nissan would be flogging a dead horse. if Nissan didn't continually develop new engines, we'd still be tuning L series motors.

i could prob find a rear housing from a VL turbo or an R33/R34 rwd gearbox, these boxes are the same as the GTR and GTS4 sans transfer case

transfer case will foul...? on what? doesnt the transfer case sort of live off to the side and underneath the gearbox? eg not in the tunnel at all?

well as it so happens, i was an AE86 drifter for many a year. My AE86 had a Toyota Racing Development 2way LSD and about 85 kw at the tyres. The difference being that it was a live axle arrangement. My 86 was very oriented toward going sideways rather than going fast. And therefore a flick of the wrist in 2nd or 3rd gear would result in a drift being initiated. This was more to do with the pinion angle and the rose jointed rear end than the diff. If you wish to go fast point to point, even in an NA skyline, first spend your money on some 9 or 10 inch wide rims and good tires. I firmly believe a viscous LSD from a turbo skyine will be adequate as your unlikely to overcome the ability of that diff with NA power. But if you can get that 1 way mega cheap, then get that.

plug for trent from mercury does good things for RB motors!

Hey chaps i have a flogged out old RB20 box in my R32 GTSt 4 door. i have found a reasonably priced GTS4 box (stronger than GTSt right?) and i wish to know if it will A: fit in my trans tunnel b: the cross member will line up c: the speedo drive be compatible d: be any stronger than my RB20 box (the car is now RB25 powered) so are the GTS4 and GTR transtunnels any bigger than GTSt? i was just going to leave the transfer case hangin off the side of the box and not run any lines to it (lol dont have any lines to run!) was going to get some steel plate and chemi weld it over the transfer output. Any ideas, suggestions, experiences would be greatly appreciated.

when i poon my R32 into a wall/another car i will definately get some of those overfenders to cover my damage

thats a nice low weight for the 34 sedan! good choice in ditching the RB25 Neo, a friend of mine who has a R34 couple (tony) had massive drama's extracting good reliable power out of the NEO motor. He said he couldnt get it to remain cool anywhere over about 230kw at the wheels. Said something about the R34 blocks having thinner water jackets to run hotter for emissions. He ended up using an R33 motor.

for the record, a factory Nissan LSD can be re shimmed to be nearly locked. This works well for drifting so long as its not completely locked under zero torque input conditions, because in a transition from drifting left to drifting right, and visa versa, you need your diff to unlock for the briefest of moments to avoid mid transition understeer. Welded and supershimmed LSD's can create this condition. A 1.5 and 2 way diffs are great for sliding in to the corner Pre Apex and then locking tight on the way out for a big smoke show, but if you wanna go fast around a circuit you need a 1 way LSD. A 1 way LSD will allow you to avoid excessive oversteer into the corner but prevent any roll related open wheeling post apex when you wanna put the power down and get out of the corner. I know some guys like a a 1.5 way in the back of their GTR's for circuit work because the little bit of locking on the entry to the corner helps offset the understeer associated with 4wds.

backlash is adjusted in different ways for different diffs toyota's have an excellent backlash adjustment mechanism in their diffs, using two large fine threaded caps either side of the diff centre to allow the whole crown/centre assembly to be moved side to side (and consequently, closer and farther away from the pinion, which is fixed) Nissan R200's however, are strong as f**k diffs, but dont have good backlash adjustment (for the home diff rebuilder). They rely on big shims either side of the centre to locate the centre in the correct position. If you swap from a 4.11:1 to a 4.3:1 ratio and find your backlash is wrong, you will have to chop and change shims until you get it right.

backlash is the tolerance between the pinion and the crown gear. eg if you have the diff sitting on a bench in front of you with the back cover off: and you were to hold the pinion input flange with your hand (or a vice), back lash is how much "play" the crown wheel assembly has. you might wonder, why would you want any play in something that cops so much power. the reason for a bit of back lash is: 1: Metal expands when it gets hot, and therefore if there is no backlash when cold, the gears would expand under heat conditions and seize up. 2: The stinky ass diff oil that you have put in is "Hypoid" which means it contains a special substance that resists the massive loads placed on the oil as it travels up the gears and lubricates the contact between the pinion and the crown. If you have no backlash when cold, and the gears expand with heat, the special hypoid diff oil will get squeezed out and it will result in metal on metal contact and a fast death.

yeah they grind the nut rather than the wheel... can you imagine the ridiculous howl that an asymmetrical turbine wheel would create

when you say big, i assume you mean wide as well? if so, then stretch some skinnier tires over the rim eg: stretch 205 40 17's over a 9 - 9.5 inch wide rim.

thanks very much for that!

Hey all you smart skyliners out there. can anyone tell me, if i used a 1.85 mm metal headgasket in a RB25DE (originally 10:1 CR) what my new CR would be? I am unsure of the calculations and measurements eg deck height of stock pistons etc

if its running on 6 cylinders, she'll be right mate.

f**k hoons, if you want to have fun and get respect, go to the race track. f**k Peter Beattie for not allowing more racetracks to be built in the SE QLD area. f**k the police for the bullshit attitude and disrespect they spit at you when they've pulled you over.

D - double over head camshaft E - electronic fuel injection T - turbocharged

this is a good price

lol @ price

there's no such thing as to big a radiator SR20 is my favourite motor, i wish i could afford one for my skyline i should be a tightass and buy a blown one and rebuild it with NA crank and rods

109 octane fuel will be harder to ignite but reduce knock. 100 octane fuel will be easier to ignite, but may not allow much more than 24 psi (guestimate) all depends on what your motor/turbo combination is

is that drift battle out now? ill have to go and hunt one down tommorow... they say it is the last drift battle ever!