andylaurel

mine was cast over. simple as that. Sliding RB25 hi flow turbo is on the cards.

i agree with simon that oil drand from the head is too small a diameter to drain the oil out of the head AND the turbo. weld a fitting to the sump (behind the engine mount) and run it straight down to the sump

^^^ i had an AE86 for about 18 months... the difference between single and multiple throttles is quite noticable.

spend the 8 grand on a 2jz conversion and push 400rwkw on a stock motor with an ECU, fuel system and t51R. TOYOTA FTW (im a freakin hypocrate)

im lead to beleive that the Rb25 flange wont bolt to the RB20 head. perhaps you should go to Autobarn and get a Greddy plenum off the shelf for RB20

its should all bolt in fine.

im actually quite keen to slot in a 1UZ FE from a Toyota Crown, Toyota Soarer Ltd or a Toyota Celcior. These engines regularly make 700 whp + unopened with quite modest boost. Also, Castlemaine Rod Shop do a manual bellhousing/flywheel conversion for them to use the W series toyota gearboxes. i dont know a lot about the Nissan V8's, i assume their also quite strong.

if you can afford a GTR face, do it. alloy guards and alloy bonnet are feather weight... moreso than fibreglass

go buy an RB25DE from the wreckers for $700 and spend the mega bucks on that youll have a better head to start with, and you wont have to f**k around with linishing the crank and rods. buy some great pistons, maybe some rods if you are keen and spend the big bucks you would have spent on your stroker 20, on a really nice new turbo kit from japan. edit: or build a 30DET and it will turn a lazy 500WHP on 12 psi

i used to have a AE86 that was under 900kg its not that fun to drive a "race car" on the road. Trust me. And that's effectively what your trying to do, make it a race car. When you remove sound deadener, and install plexiglass, and rip out carpet, the car is no longer a pleasureable car, it becomes rude and uninviting.,

$200 to change the injectors RUDE BASTARD yeah i'd just get it towed. (actually i'd just fit em myself in his parking lot, but if I WAS YOU, id get it towed)

ive got vacuum hose running straight from the compressor nipple to the wastegate actuator and its natural boost is .8 bar. i do have a bleed valve in the line but its completely shut. i might delete this as it may still be causing a boost increase.

i wish i could get this Rb20 turbo to boost at 8 psi but it simply wont! aforementioned 4AGTE was using 440cc injectors with a NA + Turbo friendly tune but it still fooked a slug.

the cast pistons will not tolerate the higher combustion temperatures associated with boost. of course a good tune will help keep detonation to a minimum and the correct supporting modifications will ensure oil temps and water temps are kept low, but eventually the pistons will give up the ghost. an example is my good friend who has a famous AE86 drift car here on the gold coast. He had a stock 4AGE bluetop (bigport) bottom end which has the smallest rods, crank and gudgeon pins of all the 4AGE's and it took 6 months of punishment from a HKS GT2510 at 13 PSI pushing 150 kw at the wheels out of 1600cc. It had a great tune from Adam from JEM and had all the supporting mods like a alloy radiator, great intercooler, big fuel system and oil cooler. The water temps never got above 82 and the oil never about 90 - 95. Eventually, the pistons gave up. But it goes to show that a motor can be pushed to nearly triple its factory power and still last for a while given that the correct supporting mods and great tune are applied. Side note: I have read that the turbo RB30 pistons with the twin cam head will result in a 7:1 CR. too low

there's an entire thread related to RB30 conversions.

Tokage Racing Imports stocks them on the Gold Coast he's a site sponsor of secretdrift.com.au so check him out

the map isnt closed loop, your fuel map is determined by the amount of air passing though your AFM. your larger turbine will come in later and suck more air later, so until it comes on boost, the ECU will add the correct amount amount of fuel for manifold vacuum. when it does come on boost, it will see more air going through the AFM and compensate with more fuel

^^^ im gonna start saving for some RB30 forged pistons and get a crappy old NA RB30 block then.

theoretically you can work out the percentage size difference and lean your maps off by that percentage throughout the spectrum, however this would be in a perfect world. the world is not perfect... so take it to a dyno tuner and get him to tune the new injectors in with an accurate AFR meter.

im thinking about getting one for my Rb25de as my RB20 turbine is shagged after many minutes of zero oil pressure driving. (on old blown RB20) has anyone got one of the Ball bearing garret items that sliding stocks?

the only hole you have to drill is for the sump return fitting. the RB25de doesnt have a oil drain from the turbine so one must be welded into the sump (unless you wanna machine the block - FLAG) otherwise it all bolts on NO WORRIES MATE just bolt it all on man... its a no brainer.

turbo

get a 25DE and bolt your shit on cruise around in it until your built 30DET is finished then start thrashing again. 25DE is around $700

^^^ are you serious man? of course it increases unprung weight...

oh yeah i am going to get a sliding highflow, man they are cheap (almost too cheap) with that turbine, im gonna aim for 180kw at the wheels