RB240Dav

Just browsing through, noticed that your coil packs look a bit different than mine. I have an R32 RB26, my coil packs don't have little buttons, just springs. Is this correct, or am I missing all 6 buttons?

Giving thought to the moving mass of air, does this imply that the location of the BOV's is just as important. I have been contemplating moving the BOVs to the hot pipe, pipe between turbo and intercooler, to make plumbing easier on my custom rb26 setup. It would seem that the BOVs would still relieve the air's momentum from hitting the compressor, but only after returning from bouncing off of the throttle bodies. Would the only concern be the loss of the air's momentum in a single direction through the intercooler, and would this be enough of a concern not to go with this setup; once again, BOVs on the hot pipe for a much shorter recirc to the AFMs.

Is the Cat / Union flange 2.5" as well? I need a 3"

I'm using an inductive timing light that is clamped onto a spark plug wire between the coil and cylinder #1. With this setup, is there something that I have to disconnect like this guy is saying?

Did you ever get this figured out? I had to advance my CAS completely in order to just get 15* bTDC, it's supposed to be 20* for the rb26. I did did the valve timing myself when I replaced the water pump, so I know it's spot on.

I'm having a similar problem with my r32 rb26. I had to fully rotate the CAS in order to get the base timing to 15* BTDC. I wonder why this is.

Most of the teams in the Top Speed Series are Manufacturer teams with deep deep pockets.

That was just for the commander?

Old News http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t377227.html The Update http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=523000 It's hard not to get your hopes up even as they are a brand new team. Do you think the N1 and it's team will make a good showing?

Clearly it was just some good ole' tongue and cheek. Come-on, Cardboard?

Is there anything tricky about using the oil pressure for fuel pressure? If not, I'm going to buy 2 packages (6 gauges) *thanks zxfire for linking me here.

I currently have a bone stock rb26dett in my S13. Prodject finished at start of winter here in November. I will be running a Power FC and the only functional gauge I have is the Volt meter. So I need the whole gammet, Water Temp Oil Pressure (would you recommend electrical or mechanical) Exhaust Temp, A/F mixture Fuel Pressure (because I'm using a Walbro fp) Boost Gauge I'm not looking for pretty, just reliably functional, at a reasonable cost. I would rather not spend $100US / gauge. Who should I be looking at. Some side questions, Can I derive exhaust temp from my oem O2 sensors. If not, what's best avenue? Can I rely on OEM O2 sensors for accurate A/F when I'm not going for a really aggressive tune? ( I realize that I'm not getting real-time data with oem ) Are there other gauges I should get, or consider acquiring in the future.

eh, edited, what he said (only arrow I could find)

Maybe it was the CAS that stripped? If the Splines stripped off of the CAS, it would look like a perfectly round hole inside the cam. Just a thought.

HA WHAT DO YOU KNOW, THE SEARCH ENGINE ACTUALLY WORKED FOR ONCE. Hey, I'm looking to purchase some nice gauges. I would prefer if they were all matching. I need the whole gammet!! -fuel pressure -oil pressure, maybe temp too -water temp -exhaust temp -maybe a knock indicator -a/f mixture (is that the same as exhaust temp?) -boost gauge Please any suggestions would be great, what to get, what not to worry about. I plan on running the Power FC if that matters. I have an R32 RB26DETT in my s13, up and running. Need gauges so I can beat the piss out of it with some peace of mind. I've mounted the radio/cd in the back so I have TONS of space for gauges. I'll spend what I need to, but I'd like to keep it on the low side. I'll give up looks for reliability if it saves on cost.