RB240Dav

Just browsing through, noticed that your coil packs look a bit different than mine. I have an R32 RB26, my coil packs don't have little buttons, just springs. Is this correct, or am I missing all 6 buttons?

Giving thought to the moving mass of air, does this imply that the location of the BOV's is just as important. I have been contemplating moving the BOVs to the hot pipe, pipe between turbo and intercooler, to make plumbing easier on my custom rb26 setup. It would seem that the BOVs would still relieve the air's momentum from hitting the compressor, but only after returning from bouncing off of the throttle bodies. Would the only concern be the loss of the air's momentum in a single direction through the intercooler, and would this be enough of a concern not to go with this setup; once again, BOVs on the hot pipe for a much shorter recirc to the AFMs.

Is the Cat / Union flange 2.5" as well? I need a 3"

I'm using an inductive timing light that is clamped onto a spark plug wire between the coil and cylinder #1. With this setup, is there something that I have to disconnect like this guy is saying?

Did you ever get this figured out? I had to advance my CAS completely in order to just get 15* bTDC, it's supposed to be 20* for the rb26. I did did the valve timing myself when I replaced the water pump, so I know it's spot on.

I'm having a similar problem with my r32 rb26. I had to fully rotate the CAS in order to get the base timing to 15* BTDC. I wonder why this is.

Most of the teams in the Top Speed Series are Manufacturer teams with deep deep pockets.

That was just for the commander?

Old News http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t377227.html The Update http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=523000 It's hard not to get your hopes up even as they are a brand new team. Do you think the N1 and it's team will make a good showing?

Clearly it was just some good ole' tongue and cheek. Come-on, Cardboard?

Is there anything tricky about using the oil pressure for fuel pressure? If not, I'm going to buy 2 packages (6 gauges) *thanks zxfire for linking me here.

I currently have a bone stock rb26dett in my S13. Prodject finished at start of winter here in November. I will be running a Power FC and the only functional gauge I have is the Volt meter. So I need the whole gammet, Water Temp Oil Pressure (would you recommend electrical or mechanical) Exhaust Temp, A/F mixture Fuel Pressure (because I'm using a Walbro fp) Boost Gauge I'm not looking for pretty, just reliably functional, at a reasonable cost. I would rather not spend $100US / gauge. Who should I be looking at. Some side questions, Can I derive exhaust temp from my oem O2 sensors. If not, what's best avenue? Can I rely on OEM O2 sensors for accurate A/F when I'm not going for a really aggressive tune? ( I realize that I'm not getting real-time data with oem ) Are there other gauges I should get, or consider acquiring in the future.

eh, edited, what he said (only arrow I could find)

Maybe it was the CAS that stripped? If the Splines stripped off of the CAS, it would look like a perfectly round hole inside the cam. Just a thought.

HA WHAT DO YOU KNOW, THE SEARCH ENGINE ACTUALLY WORKED FOR ONCE. Hey, I'm looking to purchase some nice gauges. I would prefer if they were all matching. I need the whole gammet!! -fuel pressure -oil pressure, maybe temp too -water temp -exhaust temp -maybe a knock indicator -a/f mixture (is that the same as exhaust temp?) -boost gauge Please any suggestions would be great, what to get, what not to worry about. I plan on running the Power FC if that matters. I have an R32 RB26DETT in my s13, up and running. Need gauges so I can beat the piss out of it with some peace of mind. I've mounted the radio/cd in the back so I have TONS of space for gauges. I'll spend what I need to, but I'd like to keep it on the low side. I'll give up looks for reliability if it saves on cost.

I see you sold your turbos on ebay. If your buyer backs out I might be interested.

Cheers to that. Althought performance like the R32-4 shipped to the U.S. would be ground breaking all by itself. Engine; V6 3.2L short stroked 8250 Redline Single Turbo, 8psi stock, 425HP Gearbox; 6 speed manual, Push type Clutch Drive; 4wd with rear drive bias Body; 3200lbs, Otherwise, don't care, better outhandle anything currently under $200K Available in the Baddest Blue yet to be offered by Nissan. Price; $70K U.S. Dollar, base price. Will be badged Infiniti here. Optional Nissan badges available at dealership. (that would be cool, but definately won't happen)

You're right, I don't know what I was thinking. Hence, switching from a mineral based oil in an old engine to straight synthetic can cause chunks of buildup to lift off into the motor. I'm running around here at the shop with an average of 3hrs of sleep a night (often getting online before I head home) getting this car on the road. I won't even bother to explain the super tired line of thought. I fully plan on using some high grade synthetic!!!!! Just not to flush the motor out. Granted the motor is used, but I want to treat it like a brand new motor which would require a mineral based oil to break in properly. Plus I don't see the need for a good synthetic when I'm going to be dumping it in 500miles anyways.

Well thank you, questions answered!!! I will just go with the normal oil change, just every 500miles a couple times. I'll stick with normal oil as well since synthetic's don't have a lot of detergents in them. Thanks again. See you on the flip side.

LOL, tight ass, nah, just looking for some good old proven methods. hmm, not sure about that one. For example, I know that if you add brake fluid to hydraulic oil (we're talking 2 teaspons to 3 gallons) it'll cause the rubber seals to swell enough to temporarily stop leaks. I'd be a little over cautious about adding that one, unless ofcourse, somebody has had experience with it.

NICE, it would take a bit of work, but I'll look into that in the future. The lines are built into the rb26 and run behind the timing chain cover so it would take a bit of searching and will probably have to wait until I pull the engine again.

Thanks, I appreciate it. And no, I have absolutely ZERO inspections here in Michigan, USA. I can cut the hardline wherever I want for the original setup. Currently it just ends at the bottom of the firewall. Intake side. Edit: Stock R32 RB26 in S13. Will be driving it for the first time tomorrow

o.k. so I really want to thin the oil somehow and help flush out any buildup as I've heard this done with many imported motors that could have sat for years. What would you guys recommend?

If no one here has tried it, and we're all a little leary about it, what engine flushing products out there do you recommend. p.s. this is an old timer's trick, my Great Grandfather used mineral oil. Funny thing is, he always went overboard, so if 2 cups was good, then 2 quarts must be better. They let it sit running for 45minutes until they heard *clackity clackity CLUNK* Siezed the motor!! LOL

I have heard it mentioned on here before, however there isn't a topic discussing its pros and cons. I have started and ran my rb26 a couple dozen times for a total of maybe 30minutes. This may be the first time the engine has run in years (no history). I'm getting my driveshaft back tomorrow and will be taking the engine and car for it's first spin. I would like to make sure the motor is free of sludged oil and give it a good flushing. I have heard the 1 quart diesel fuel to 4 quarts standard oil is good. My plan is to drive it 15 miles down the road with the fuel in it and get it changed at the local dealership. (can't wait to see the look on their faces LOL) Is this safe? Is it the best way to go? I have heard that this will help reseat the rings if needed. Do I have the right fuel to oil ratio? Will 15 miles (20 minutes) be too long? not long enough?