keca18

white180sx, do you know the part number for bosch 550cc or larger injectors? NOONE in the industry will tell us, only want to sell us a set. if you can help, please let me know, thanks

the o2 sensor sends signals back to the computer either rich or lean via voltage reading. if the o2 sensor reads rich, the computer compensates by leaning off mixture. if o2 sensor reads lean, computer richens mixture. an o2 sensor is a TRIMMING device, nothing more.

apparently just brakes and thats about it. but dont qoute me on that though, i havnt really played with 200's that much and to be honest, i dont want to. theyre missn two cylinders and have that dreded rattly timing chain, YUK!

not really. depends on how heavy the pinging is. if it is only a light ping, a squirt around the block shouldnt hurt it. obviously if you hear it ping all you gotta do is back off and cruise home. i run 15 degrees in my R32, hasnt pinged once, not even on a 40 degree day! mind you, im still running standard boost and a decent size hybrid cooler and motorsport pump.

i know this is gunna sound pretty stupid, but you bothered trying to change the plugs???? -erratic idle -you drive it and it kinda clears up?(under load) -acceleration it pumps black smoke(fuel not burning) -specks of fuel on your hand if held over exhaust? my previous ride was a 1974 KE20 toyota corolla with a CA18det. same prob with mine, i was changing a set of plugs every 4 weeks. mainly due to the microtech, but hey, theres always a rule of thumb with mechanics, try the simple things first! hope i helped, cheers

we just finished fitting a 3 inch mendrel system from the turbo back. opened it up to see the results. very impressed for a split second there, but........guess when you look at it, it kinda wasnt worth it as for the brake upgrade, why?? 4 spot calipers are more then enough for the moment. its only a stocker fellas. all ive done is rebuild all 4 calipers, fitted slotted discs front and rear, and used EBC kevlar pads. should keep me happy for a bit.

theres more r33's in sydney then excels these days. cubes dont always make a car quicker or better, and to tell you the truth, the only thing the 33 has against the 32 is the cubes. you can sit around all day saying 33's are better coz they got the 2.5, but seriously, they feel like they are 2.5 tonnes heavier too! personal preference, 32, easier to drift, parts easier to come by, and if your upset about cubes buy a RB26! if cubes make a car quicker, why havnt we all got RB30's in our skylines?? or better still, if cubes make a car quicker, why dont we all drive heavy pushrod V8's lol.

nuthn beats seeing the face of a new monaro 255 owner gettn chewed by a pretty stock r32 gts-t. been there, done that, and just to think.....theyve spent 70 odd grand on that cheaply build aussie shit car. and a note to all you bogans out there, PUSHRODS ARE DEAD!!

thatll teach the ****wits to drive around with that ****ed up foglight on the rear turned on! what do they get out of having it on?? see all the cars behind them in fog that just dont happen in australia?? tell you guys the truth, ive thought many of times to go around smashing those ****ing things, piss me right off!

i was scootn down a backstreet at 130, backed off to 100, touched my brakes lightly to start slowing down and the front right caliper locked solid. naturally off teh brakes straight away and the wheel was still locked! i started pumping the pedal to try and release the wheel only to lock the left front wheel as well. as you can imagine, 85km/h into a parked car does a bt of damge, both to the car and the bank account according to Tony Rigoli Performance, front brake lockups in r32 gts-t's are common, be careful fella!

i got the shits with mine and bought a second hand compressor anyway. cost me $200 but its worth it. didnt have a chance to fit it though, front brakes locked up at 100km/h and i hit a parked car, but hey, atleast now that i got the motor out, makes the compressor swap easy

hey dude, is it a boost leak or an exhaust leak?? coz if its dropped boost and the exhaust place has told you he doesnt fix turbo cars, i got my money on you have blown your manifold to turbo gasket.

dude, even dirt in a turbo compressor housing will **** a turbo. if youve found metal shavings in her, sounds like that bolts munched your compressor wheel to pieces. bad news, turbo's ****ed, good news....good excuse to get rid of that undersized stocker hair dryer and time to get your hands on a trust TD-06!!! personally i wouldnt waste my time rebuilding a standard turbo. they have a rediculous ceramic rear wheel, and chances are if you rebuild the thing, 6 months later it will shit the exhaust wheel anyway. do yourself a favour, look up www.japanesemotorsport.com.au and look at second hand turbo's. good luck champ

could be low gas, could be faulty ac pressure switch, could be ****ed compressor, snapped belt, faulty climate control head switch, even a broken wire between any of them. im in the trade, and ive noticed on hotter days it takes a lot longer to cool the air then on semi hot days. try having fan speed on 3, hold rpm to over 2,200 and see how you go. sounds silly, but trust me, it works.

behind the globes in the socket itself, is the contact disc. beneath the contact disc is a spring that keeps tension on the globe. your sure the globes holding tension dude. im a mechanic, common prob on even new cars

if your battery dropped a cell, it would be totally ****ed by now. if your altenator was ****ed, the car would be cutting out while driving, and it wouldbe trashed. the only way the deck would be draining power is if it is wired up to direct positive power instead of ignition power. i dont know what other electrical after market accessories youve fitted, but all i can suggest to try is checking them.

guys, battery will only be 12.4 volts at stand still, and 14.7 while running. if its ok when you leave it and flat in teh morning, you got a power drain over night. you wouldnt have an amp if your car would ya?

be honest with you guys, im a qualified mechanic and if a mechanic cant change a RB timing belt, they shouldnt be working as a mechanic. there is one mark on the crank sproket, and one on each cam sproket. pretty much exactly the same as a CA-18. estimated time to replce belt........2 hours max.so if anyone bullshits you and trys to charge too much labour, tell them to stick it up their ass! cheers.

just wanna warn all you guys out there with r32 gts-t's. i had mine for 8 weeks, done basic mods, gtr bar, bar and plate cooler, adjustable suspension etc, 3 inch mendrel from turbo back, but nuthn of that has any bearing to what im gunna warn about. doing 130km/h's hour down a backstreet, backed off to 110, slightly pressed brakes and the front right brake caliper locked up. pulled foot off brake and repressed to find both front calipers seizing, locked on completely. i hit a parked car at 80km/h, 66 metre skidmark. but after some inspections(im a qualified mechanic) found ALL FOUR pistons on both front calipers seized up and locking brakes on. went to Tony Rigoli Performance to chat to Rob Rigoi and apparently that is the 4th time he's heard of it happening.one was his brother! so boys, be careful eh. its a big loss in the end, Cheers.

matt, got the same prob. its quiet when cold, if i got it on for longer then 15 mins, starts whinning like a bitch. still cools the bastard though. dunno if its the same prob exactly as mine, but my compressors ****ed, maybe yours is too.