n0nac

why not just crack the caliper bleeder, and let it run through. start rear right, then left, then front right then left. might need 2 rounds of hte car to get all the air out. trick is to not get air in the abs in the first place if you can help it :S

would you believe there is NONE IN AUSTRALIA apparantley !!!!!!!! bloody bob jane.

oh thats great to hear ! thanks for that ! i must admit i have never reallly paid attention to advans purely due to cost, and knowing they are usually awesome but thats about it. Thanks for the help mate.

oh sweet ! thanks, i didnt even consider them, as usually advan gear is hella expensive. how do they go in the wet ? and track?

has anyone actually compared the RSRR to the RS3 in the wet? i have had about 4 sets of RSR due to bang for buck on my S15.. so im lining up a set of 595 RSRR pricing atm, and pretty keen on them, unless someone can sway me towards the RS-3 got a set of RE003 on the xr5 stock, and they are an awesome all round street tires

BUMP - Price DROP 1200$ for evertything in pics!!!!

price drop !!!!!!!!!! $1400 for everything - I Want It Gone! its a brand new turbo and kit for bolt on application for s15 - just need the intake pipe 3" and a 2" silicon 90d bend for the compressor outlet. included in the Kit Billet Turbochargers D-GTA 56trim (480hp rated turbo - new) bolts for blocking water jacket and brass washers. s15 xforce dump pipe (used) oil feed line (used for 4000kms) oil return line (used for 2000kms) and random gaskets that i didnt use - its a $20 MTQ Soniq gasket kit i used.

pix of other parts, water jacket blockage bolts and washers etc.

FOR SALE – BRAND NEW BOLT ON TURBOCHARGER AND KIT FOR S14/S15 SR20 PACKAGE PRICE - $1600 for quick sale PM me for details or reply to this thread and ill PM you. BRAND NEW TURBO! RRP $1699 (I purchased lines and fittings for $200 cost me over $2000 all up and practically giving away stuff to clear out the shed) Billet D-GTA (56 Trim) Turbocharger Turbocharger rated by manufacturer - 300hp to 480hp Compressor wheel Billet-D, Inducer 53.1mm, Major 71mm. 56 trim. Compressor cover Billet-B .60 A/R, 3” inlet, 2” outlet. Turbine wheel Billet-GTA. Major 53.8mm, Exducer 47mm. Turbine exhaust housing GT28 Open .64 A/R Includes Bracket, 19psi Actuator can, rod and flap assembled. **Turbocharger has been modified by billet (MTA) for increased oil cooling ***Billet turbochargers and MTA are same company www.billetturbochargers.com Reason for sale: I changed direction with my S15 build, new engine in the mix and went to a bigger T3 series turbo and oil feed filter this time. This turbo is perfect for a fast street car or track work! Due to the ballbearing system, the transient response and spool up is brilliant. Has potential for upwards of a responsive 260+ rwkw on a silvia with supporting mods (which I was aiming for) About this product: I have had this turbo on my car for 4000 kms. It was then rebuilt they reused housings cleaned and made made as new, but brand new CHRA, new internals, including new compressor and exhaust wheels, larger oil cooling and optimized design This turbo performs VERY well, I believe it spools up faster than Garrett GT2871. on full song – 20psi before 3800rpm, Custom made Billet turbocharger by billetturbochargers (http://www.mtaturbo.com) Just need a 3” intake also highly recommended, as stock air pipe will suck its self shut and a 2”elbow to connect turbo to hot pipe. Autobarn or pirtek (cheaper) u can source these elbows. (Turbo got remade as I must have had some crap in the engine and caused blockage to the turbo causing it to overheat, billetturbochargers (MTA) replaced the old turbo free of charge with a whole new unit with modifications to the CHRA for additional cooling as I had a concern with it. Includes a new modified oil restrictor which fits inside oil feed line at turbo feed side) Additional items included in this sale: Xforce Split Dump pipe – dremel modified to suit this turbo waste gate flap. Oil feed line Oil return line 2xm14 bolts for water deletion (S15) Gasket kit for turbo to manifold installation Note: Reuse your stock manifold, turbo exhaust studs, and follow all instructions by MTA in box. See pix of turbo, I will add other pix when I can get to my olds place to take some.

ok so since we last spoke sau... i bought an official APEXi kit, from streeter who was very helpful as always.. it comes with the flow data to punch into the pfc for maf calibration, how i interpolated the nistune data, was obviously incorrect.... you can see my the graph attached the r35gtr right and left banks is my interpolation of the nistune data. unfortunatley i f**ked that up somewhere. and its always easier to get data from someone who has actually tested and aquired it. so i decided to go this route for something different, its cost is a bit cheaper than a Z32, and i wont be aiming for anything near 300rwkw (about what hte z32 can handle on a sr apparantly - no idea. never tried or seen) so thought id throw this up for the benefit on anyone else going down this path with a power fc.. cheers.

totally agree. if your afrs are 12 on full boost... you have to reduce timing. knocks of 120 is deffo not good what so ever. if it were me, id knock 4 degrees of timing out of hte map and diagnose. if its knocking its tits off on full boost WOT above 3000 rpm, you know where abouts it will be in the map by looking at the tracer function of your hand controller and set it to Map trace to record where hte map runs. if its still knocking, remove more timing.. then once its stopped knocking stupid amounts, start to add in more timing, to bring your powr levels back up. you should be tuning this with a wide band also, to make sure your afrs are all good. food for thought. my SR20 runs 9 degrees timing on full boost mid-high end of rev / load range. on 16psi boost. 11.5-12 afrs and knock peaks at 18 usually. my mates r33 skyline, was running 12psi. reasonably rich afr's and it started knocking its absolute tits off. +120. found that that the nipple in the hot pipe for hte boost control was just screwed in... it came loose. and caused it to knock its tits off. fixed it properly, and knock settled down to about a max of 30 off memory. it was many years ago that happened now.

ya onto it now. yep im tuning it my self. hence why im trying to get as much data as i can ... and yes your right. once the curve is pretty right with respects to resolution. you can fix up the fuel map to suit the needs of the tune. the tuning side isnt the concern, just the R35 afm data is lol!

so the question is, where did you find the Flow table vs voltage to tune the thing? so i have interpolated with averages between nistune and apexi. fark... its rough as guts, but it could be a start... iv contacted apexi to see if they have any data i can use.

lol point taken. still early days for me with this all. never bothered to look into r35 afm really. and was a quick look on the interwebs too. z32 afm is still $320 :|

VQ afm???? Voltage Quantifier (VQ) ??? i will have hte data conversion from the r35 later with any luck. the R35 are about 90 odd $ then an adaptor welded to a pipe and voila!

f**king legend ! i was going to install nistune tonight and have a poke around at a whimb to see if it would have any data i could use. thanks for clearing that up! that will be a good start, and to be honest, that will most probably be pretty close! then a tune of the fuel map to clean it up. cheers

correct, i believe thats covered in the link that r31nismoid posted.. basically i need the flow vs voltage points as a starting point. i will be re-tuning hte fuel map anyways a good starting point is better than no starting point.

my bad.... still a bit of a steep learning curve here. but with some form of units of data ya can interpolate it. the HPX gives lbs/min flow vs voltage. idealy that would be awesome to get from the R35 GTR MAF.... if anyone out there has it?

what i reallly need after all that is the following data for the R35 GTR MAF, voltage vs flow i cant find that info anywhere !!! if i can get that, i can get a close scale to put it into the PFC, i have found the nissan polynominal to make adjustments, and then fine tune to suit my car once in there. but just need the data first up. even resistance / voltage woul dbe a good start to work it backwards with interpolation to the stock afm. there is a lot of talk about it on forums, but actual hard data is a mission to come by for this MAF. Cheer.s

hi all, so i have a power fc for my s15, im looking into the R35 GTR MAF. i know there are more modern computers out there, but this is what i have and i would rather make this work. so i have been reading heaps about the R35 maf's and their capabilities, they are cheaper then the z32's and more responsive suposably. there is also this option http://www.pmas-maf.com/mass-air-sensors.php i see a few people have dabbled with the r35 and the HPX, but i cant seem to find any data for the R35 MAF. the hpx website supplies flow rates vs voltages. there is also nistune who put up this http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=2428 however it would seem that the HPX will support a much higher HP number then the r35. myself personally would prefter the r35 maf to support a smaller turbo with streetablilty. does anyone know how to scale the power fc (FC DATALOGIT) air flow readings? and or convert from lbs/min to PFC data? and R35 MAF flowrates to PFC Data... Cheers, scott

edit: sold

For sale: fp_regulator.pdf Nismo adjustable Type 1 fuel pressure regulator - bolt up for following models silvia PS13 SR20DET 180sx RPS13 SR20DET skyline ECR33 RB25DET Skyline GTR BNR32 RB26DETT BCNR33 RB26DETT BNR34 RB26DETT stagea WGNC34 RB26DETT part No. 22670-RR580 Condition: brand spankin new. about a year old. sat in a mates cupboard then i bought it. i also bought a new Oring for it... so thats about all of 2 weeks old Price and price conditions: cost: $130.00 + buyers expense for shipping Extra Info: review attached pdf for the type 1 bolt up reg. Contact Details: please PM me for details and can sort out how you want to buy it / shipping. express post shouldnt cost more then say 15$. Reason for sale: wont bolt upto s15 motor. i bought it at an impulse buy because my standard one is goneskies. i bought it cheap, so selling it cheap. Location: i am located in NTH QLD

i agree with this.... if they hammer you about the point that you changed the car from the way of factory as a modification you will be f**ked so to speak... get on the band wagon, that the lsd was not working correctly previously and you/mechanic picked it up as apart of routien maintenance.... then the shims were woren out with further investigation and needed replacing as a maintainence and safety issue... then go along the lines of that they are new, still need running in, and dont just "run in" within a matter of days/weeks. if you hammer them with that straight up you should be able to get off... even if they try to say its a modification, just say they were replaced with what you believed to be standard replacement shims.

do some googling .... there is a formula to work out how to get maximum traction/responce from what size rims you run & tyres. with diff gears etc etc... basically i was sort of explained to by a mate who worked it all out for his datto with a ca18 in it... that as a really rough guide you should be approximatly crossing the line at the top of your 1:1 gear. ie. 4th. for me in my s15 its the top of 5th... but just realised yours is an auto... so if you want more responce drop down to a 16" tyre with about 55 profile on it and loose some pressure out of it. should work great.