junkie

that's my kinda car right there. now if only i had the funds, id be booking a flight down... one day

expecting to be spoonfed while acting like a giant douche - no wonder people wont give you any decent information

thread needs moar four door love. dunno if this has been posted earlier - bit higher off the ground would have been perfect, otherwise its spot on

its whatever parts the wrecker had at the time im goin thru "pick the random bits used during repair" process on my R34 too

yeah just looked it up... just never saw them before. then again i never looked at N/A 34's being an old fart i can drive whatever i like

dont think ive ever seen the blue badges? unless its been damaged and repaired with turbo body panels

I would recover the dash with new vinyl. quite a common job with old cars, they use pretty much the same vacuum process as the factory. as long as the colour and grain are close, the result will be pretty awesome and better than stitching pieces together and ending up with wonky seams and bulges here is an example: http://dashboarddoctor.com.au//beforeafter.html

That belt grip stuff was one of the worst products I ever bought. Used it once, in the bin it went - the squeal from the belts became worse and more random Gotta be careful with any other greasy sprays too, don't want that stuff getting into the aircon compressor clutch

Never poked around the r32's but all Nissans of the early to late 90's era would have a plastic dash and door panels covered with vacuum formed vinyl and a thin layer of foam underneath The other trim pieces, especially the smaller stuff, would just be textured plastic

Best version of the SR for the time period Yeah the VE is better

yeah I was gong to suggest a GTI-R too, they have the best version of the SR20, big factory intercooler, proper awd driveline, etc finding a good one will be the painful part, most have been trashed to death. barely see them anymore

Buy a factory turbo car with factory supporting hardware in place. Turbo-ing anything n/a is a waste of time and money. Unless you enjoy wasting money, then its a whole different story

Cross ply ftw

asking price is one thing, whether it sells or not is a whole different story

main thing is, buy decent quality oil, in the correct spec for your engine and change it at the correct intervals with the oil filter. cant really go wrong there

I'm going to buy a set for my GT-T but i think it have the RE4R01A box Part number for mine is 31940-4AX05 quite cheap on Amayama compared to around $400 locally

People don't keep their cars long enough to see the benefits of fancy engine oils. Most will be sold/written off/pop the motor due to mods before before they hit 200,000-300,000km

as long as that bodykit doesnt result in another 150kw at the wheels, you should be fine

My 35 is very happy with Penrite HPR10 at the moment

that penrite extra10 shite confuses the crap outta me. is it a 10w30 or a 10w40?? package says may be used where 10w-30 is recommended. everyday 10w-40 made the v35 sump seal weep oil, was all wet. switched to nulon 10w40, dry as... so does that mean penrite everyday is really a 10w30 with some extra "protection'?

Yeah, there is no info on what mods you are after. Body? Paint? Engine? Suspension/brakes? Oz doesn't really have many places that are one stop shops Best to figure out what you need/want then start asking questions. If you don't know, educate yourself first, modding for the sake of modding is a path to fail Re: Tunehouse, my bro had work done by them, no issues, except price. But, a mate with who blew a motor built by Tunehouse, due to a bad tune, got shafted by them, so tread carefully If you are on a budget and want power, try Billtech in Sefton/Regents Park. Some big power RB25's coming from them lately. I also like Advance Motor Mechanics in Strathfield for all the stuff I cant do on my own

just found out today while hooking up a new head unti into my sedan with holographivc sound - the grey with blue is the amp for the rear speakers. crappy flat sound from the back if the hu remote turn on wire (blue with white stripe) isnt hooked up to that wire, full sound when connected. its the standard nissan amp power on wire

I joined Shannon's before they were bought by Suncorp, back then premiums were cheap and it was run by proper car guys. Then, premiums went up, value went down, and eventually when I moved house the $1900/year premium, for a stock 200 with limited use (I'm no teen either), became a bit of a joke. A call centre woman who didn't know what a 200sx was, confirmed the death of old Shannon's...

Personally i choose size of battery based on OEM physical dimensions, with the highest CCA in that size. Makes fitment a lot easier and with low comp turbo cars, huge CCA is wasted anyway. I used to install batteries for a living and hated trying to jam the wrong size into any car, unless space, cables and hold down clamp permitted. Dealing with hack jobs later on sucks too, like those dodgy brass terminals, cut cables that need to be stretched and cheap hold down brackets with wingnuts

Probably wont be of much benefit, unless you have some hectic audio setup?