junkie

Did this on Saturday, the pics are MMS'd so a bit crappy in res. The paint was finished with Naviwax, after clay and one pass of polish. Didn't go crazy due to lack of time and just finished as we ran out of daylight

good show, "foozz" the master mechanic has some great skills don't like the reveals tho, too much "reality" mixed in

You get three levels of drop with King springs, check the website. But the shocks will probably pop their seals shortly after so a bit of a false economy

russian dashcam videos are a great way to kill some time

Do you people know how to read dates and times?

FAT or FAT32 are the most compatible formats

I would spend money on suspension instead. The Maximas are awfully soft with poor body control, especially at the rear. The motor actually overpowers the chassis in standard form

small stones in bansktown, about 5mm in size

I tried fixing something similar at a pdr place. They weren't interested due to paint damage and difficulty getting to the spot. But give it a try anyway may get a different opinion

R32 GTSt are also more pricey than R33 GTSt, even the crappy examples

Yeah I did that a few years ago. Chrome just had a good clean, the paint was done with clay magic clay bar, menzerna polishes and lake county pads, and finished with optimum spray wax.

I just realised that my steering wheel had been painted. Some paint has peeled off after leather cleaning and conditioning

Re: Bowden's Own I've bought a few of their products just to see if they are any good and to support an Aussie business. Seems to be on pretty much on par with the other off the shelf gear, they only used to sell at Autobarn but slightly cheaper now at Supercheap. The carwash and wheel cleaner are good, the tar remover is very good but tyre shine was pretty average. Very watery and leaked out of the bottle when I forgot to close the sprayer tip, something that never happened to any other product I've had so far. I don't seem to have any of their products last long, just get used up pretty quickly so the value isn't quite there, plus they lag behind in some areas, like no paint correction products, or sealants/coatings. The quick detailer also smells like window cleaner (ammonia) so I'm a bit suss about the formulation.

i will disagree with the power buffer statement - you wont get this done by hand. but you're are probably confusing polishing with waxing in which case straight lines are ok

small piece of advice about collinite - apply it very thinly, don't cake it on. otherwise the haze/excess is pretty difficult to remove. slightly moist foam applicator may also help this is one of my efforts, just wash, clay and collinite

my mate has a 2003 Euro with 165k on the clock, last year it popped the electronic throttle controller which was about $850 with labour and now his stereo/aircon lights have stopped working which is a common issue - faulty circuit board inside the stereo itself, once again an exxy fix. Something to keep in mind

having said that i did have a three year nissan dealer cover on my s14 and the covered the vct rattle and a dead fuel pump no questions asked... so all depends on the provider

if its national warranty company, tell them to jam it where the sun don't shine... those asshats are completely useless. older cars will need servicing every 3 months to maintain warranty and they will usually have a wear and tear clause that will be used to handbrake most of your claims. they also have consequential damage clauses, eg if your oil pump fails and causes your engine to go bang, they will only cover the pump and you will be left to cover the rest of the bill. dont forget the claim limits + the excess for each claim. i made the mistake of buying a car with the national warranty included (no extra cost, but now doubt it was added to the price of the car) then decided to void it and not bother will all the bullcrap paperwork

i had one as a daily. cant fault the motor and the body is strong, drives well, pretty reliable and comfortable, but... borg warner diff sucks, only real fix is a new centre, which is pricey the seat backs are flimsy and will break crappy trw steering rack will most likely piss power steering fluid odo will break if you reset it while moving door trim vinyl peels and looks like crap some plastics dont like the sun, go white and shatter live rear axle is not great, needs lowering and phat wheels to look decent electronic box on series 3 cars kicks like a mule from first to second, only way to get around it is to hold the revs higher basically, all the stuff that was added or changed from the jap spec cars while they were built in oz, sucks badly

spreading peanut butter all over the interior would have looked better

get yourself a tin of collinite 476, i use it on all my cars. its a wax/sealant (i think) and lasts a few months between applications and looks great http://www.collinite.com/automotive-wax/super-doublecoat-paste-wax/ about 30 bucks online

my bro is selling a N14 pulsar, not a bad lil nugget http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/kensington/cars-vans-utes/nissan-pulsar-1993-n14-manual-long-rego-/1073553568

I do all my own cars but having said that a good detail can take a couple of days of hard physical work, so its not for everyone. Buying all the right gear gets costly too. But, very satisfying when its all done

you are looking for something like this: http://www.waxit.com.au/products/carpro-ceriglass-kit-150ml