junkie

Looks like water spots/hard water etching. Wont come off with normal car wash or clay, you will need something more abrasive like a good quality polish. Keep the paint waxed and always dry the paint after a wash to prevent the marks from coming back

Sure do On silver, after clay and machine polish: On black, after clay and machine polish: On metallic red, clay only, no polishing:

This is probably my favorite wax right now. Lasts for 6 months on a daily driver (sometimes more), gives a very nice glassy wet look, specially on dark metallic colours, easy to apply and easy to remove. The water beading from this stuff is excellent as well. The best bit, its only around 35 bucks, so one of the cheapest products out there. The only thing to keep in mind is, this stuff must be applied in a really thin coat. If you cake it on, it will be a b*tch to remove. But, thin coats mean the tin will last much longer. Some people also complain about the smell, but I don't mind it. 10/10 for me

Farken cheap. Too bad youre in Vic

Love the four door R34's, yours looks pretty schmick

Hey Terry I'm not quite sure if these guys go onsite, I have only taken my car to their workshop... They are in Taren Point so might a bit of a hike. Cant fault the work though, had about 6 small dents pulled out of the passenger door on my 200 and can't find any trace of them. Their website is http://www.cjdent.com.au

I can recommend a good shop, if this dude is no longer in the biz

Lookin great! But, I suggest sealant first then wax on top. I would imagine sealants would have a pretty hard time bonding to wax as most are designed to bond to clean paint instead

bowdens stuff is pretty good but its not a full detailing range. i havent seen any proper polishes from them. i still use menzerna polishes, have two massive bottles and yet to even use half. poorboys and scholl make some good stuff as well but i have no experience with their products, just read a lot of good reviews. if you want a good off the shelf product, meguiars ultimate compound is great for the money

pricing is here http://www.teslamotors.com/en_AU/models/design actually cheaper than i thought they would be

I looked at this ad a few days ago... thought it looked tidy with good detailing job LOL

90% of the time a straight swap is fine. only time you have issues is with radio codes (not popular anymore and i havent really seen them on imports)... or when the car has an old alarm that has not been used for years and the remotes have been lost, and the alarm decides to re-activate itself. some cars can also lock the doors when power is reconnected, sucks when the keys are inside and windows are up, but this is very rare

Best thing to do is keep power to the car while swapping the battery. If you have an older battery around and some jumper leads, just hook them up, keeping the negative on the engine somewhere and being extra careful with the positive while removing and replacing the battery, don't let it touch the chassis of the car at any stage. You can also get those 9v battery ciggie lighter plugs but they are very hit n miss and won't always work - your ignition key will need to be in acc position and having something on in the car will kill the small battery very quickly. I have a homemade contraption thats similar to the 9v thingo but made from an old phone charger with extended leads and alligator clips, allows me to replace batteries without any issues

optima yellow top in my 200, been there for about 7 years now. car can sit around for a month, with battery connected and will still start. best battery i ever bought, well worth the $350 i paid for it

More people need to be aware of the small claims court, for claims of up to 10k. NSW info here - http://www.localcourt.lawlink.nsw.gov.au/localcourts/cases/civil_cases.html

...and will believe anything fb tells them

Doesn't need anything... "moar low" is for carpark posers who don't want to be left out of the cool crowd

They're not GTR wheels at all. Just R34/C34 stockies, probably worth about $200

my next test will be chemical guys blacklight and hybrid v7, bought both but been too lazy to actually use them. meant to produce a pretty awesome result. the next item on my to buy list is naviwax ioncoat. not produced anymore but can still be found online

i used to get that kind of result from the original version of meguiars nxt wax, the gloss, flake pop and swirl filling were incredible. too bad it would last a week max. current nxt 2.0 is pretty average unfortunately, does last longer but nothing special otherwise

I just bought this Turtle Wax black tinted acrylic trim coating, looks pretty interesting. Normally not a fan of Turtle Wax products but they have been bringing out some good stuff lately, especially the towels and applicators https://www.turtlewax.com/shop/products/turtle-wax-jet-black-black-endura-shine-trim-coating

Its not hard. First, buy the right stuff... starting with two buckets, one for water+car wash and the other for water only. Get rid of your sponges and chamois, and replace them with microfibre mitts and towels, they are much safer on black paint. Wash products arent hugely important just buy something of decent quality, i been using a lot of Bowdens Own stuff lately they have nice products, decent prices and its all locally made too Technique itself is pretty straightforward too, rinse the car, then wash one panel at a time starting from the top and working your way down. Use a separate wash mitt for lower panels and another mitt or brush for wheels, and rinse them often in the water-only bucket. When drying, i also use a light mist of quick detail spray to help remove the water and lessen the chances of scratching Have a separate drying towel for wheels and door jambs too, never mix the towels. Finally, have a pro detail the car once you buy it (full decontaminate/buff/polish/wax process), as the caryard hacks are hopeless and will create more swirls than gloss and just spread cheap oily products all over the inside and on the plastic trim outside

Never had a black car but both of mine now are dark blue so its not far off in terms of time and effort. If its a daily driver, you will need to wash it once a week. The most important part with a dark car, is knowing the correct washing process. Otherwise if you stick to old school sponges, dirty buckets, wrong cleaning products and old bathroom towels, the paint will look like crap in no time You can also use a good quality quick detail spray with clean microfibre towels to clean light dust off without scratching and creating swirl marks. Its a pretty quick process but something that will need to be done a couple of times a week, and once again technique will be super important My 35 would last about 3 days of daily driving before looking dusty on dry days, but would stay cleaner on wet days due to fresh coating of wax. Also, if the paint is waxed, its much easier to clean and bird poop doesn't stick as much... oh and always be prepared for bird poop. leave it on hot paint too long and it will etch into the surface. I always carry some Autoglym bird crap wipes in the glovebox

Its a bit weird, locks with the doors and stays flush with the body when unlocked. Need to push the edge near the hinge to get the other side to open up. Bit of a crappy setup tbh

Australia tax in action LOL