RedStreakZ

hehehe....Well, it's a fairly easy fix anyway. I'll just give them a discount for the noise.... Cheers, J

I c..I c....well, thanks 4 all the feedbacks guys...much appreciated. If it's a common thing, I think I might just leave it. As a number of you have already pointed out, it's more of an annoyance than a performance issue. The thing is, I'm looking to sell my car..( and i'm hearing "oh goshhh...wtf 4..etc... "..i know I know...anyway, I just want a quick sales coz i'm thinking of going oversea, and the only thing wrong with the car is that noise, so I was hoping to fix it up, so that prospective buyers will have less things 2 nit pick ova...I've already done the 100K service..so that's one less hassle outa the way. Once again, thanks for the feedbacks guys... Cheers, J

Hi gang, Wondering if anyone's experienced the same problem that I'm having. The gist of it is that every time I turn my ignition to the "ON" position, I'm hearing a clicking sound (like two bits of plastic hitting together). It seems to be coming from behind the centre air vents (listening closely to it, it sounded like a solenoid or something that have springs or moving parts). Anyway, the sound stops after a minute or so. While it doesn't affect the performance of the car, and I know that it's not serious, I still would like to get to the bottom of it. Yesterday (monday) I removed the plastic section around the centre consoles of the dash and checked if it could have been some loose wire making the sound but thatwasn't the source of the sound. I haven't got the nerve to remove the whole dash to find out whats making the sound. Any help with a solution, or some tips on removal of the whole dash would be helpful. BTW, the sound seem to be coming from behind the firewall (ie, it's not in the engine bay). Cheers, J

Dead bodies in the boot you think????

....Although the gadget can provide you with the parameter settings on your ECU, you can't actually change the settings as it's hardwired to your stock ECU....slap me GENTLY if i'm wrong guys...

Are you sure it's original? Just look at the damage. If its cracked and flaky, then it's fibreglass, if its crack, and it's a clean crack (ie. no flaky bits) then it's plastic. There's a guide on here on how to fix such cracks,ie use Plastibond...Do a search. Cheers, J

I was busy early..sorry for da kinda confusing beginning on my earlier post... What I meant 2 say was that scraping shouldn't be your concern since it's at the bottom, not like anyone is gonna crawl under your car 2 have a look at it...wat u should b more concern about is da splitting/delamination along the bottom lip..datz harder to fix..once broken..it's never as good as new... Benm..adding a strap where u get the most impact is useful in that it reduce the delamination effects during impact..as the metal will carry the brunt of the impact. Also being a bit more rigid that a carbon part, it will reduce the the amount of twisting/flexing of the bar. This is one of the causes of the splitting you see on your bar.However, what you need to be aware of is, that even if it might not flex at the bottom lip of the bar, it might flex somewhere else..and so u might get it cracking at another attachment location..just something 2 bear in mind.. The rubber strip solution( i'm beginning to like my idea more ) is good in that instead of trying 2 hold the bar rigid, it instead is trying 2 absorb the impact energy...it's not trying 2 resist the impact...it's absorbing it... only thing is..being rubber..it's not very durable in term of wear and tear..so it'll need replacing... Any solution we propose is only effective only if the add-on touches the road/driveway surface b4 the bar...otherwise..it's not worth having it there... thus, the part that we decide to add on need to be sufficiently thick...but not so thick that you can see it when standing in front of the car.... Sorry 4 da long post. J

BTW, if anyone actually get around to fixing it...do post a followup for us... cheers, J

Wish I had as many dust and shit in my car RB25...hehehe I've got the same thing happening too. Took it to a mechanic and his suggestion was similiar to watz been posted on here. As long as it's nothing mechanical, I'm planning on leaving it alone till I get a chance 2 take off my dashboard for a new interior redesign..then i'll fix the problem at the same time.

Personally I'm more worry about the scraping of the lip and splitting/delamination of the lip, that what's happening on the bottome of the bumper bar. If you really need to put something there...then using a couple of pieces where you get the most scrapes should be sufficient... My only suggestion, is that seeing as most of the damage occured close to the front lip of the bar, it would be useful to buy a thick rubber strip to run along the bottom of the lip, so that the rubber can cushion the impact/scraping against the driveway.Thickness of the strip is important in reducing the amount of force transmitted to the bar. You dont want it to thick, otherwise it'll be to obvious. You can paint it the colour of your car to blend it in...hmmz..I might see where i can get some. Obviously being rubber, once a year you'll probably check to see if everything is still holding up. Pop rivet is not suggested, as you can't replace anything. Bolts would be a better idea. Tell me if it's crap or not...

Looks nice JameSW. Lotz of silver look nice... I've gone for the red and black theme, just wondering what it'll look like with a fully red dash? SIckkkkk or sick??? hmmmz

I'm thinking of doing mine to. Just can't determine which would look better...a respray ..or going for the carbon look on the inside. Respraying the car is cheaper...just need good can of undercoat primer and car paint...hmmmm Carbon fibre look is more expensive, Autobarn charge like 30 bucks for a small piece...If u're gonna do your whole interior to match, I would say u need at least 3-4 pieces. Anyone know where we can bulk buy some of those carbon fibre stickyonthingy? cheers.

Hi guys, thankz for suggestions/advice...As promised, I'll fill u in on da installations. 1. Park the car such dat the wheels are straight. Make it easier to take off the steering wheel. 2. For virgin wheel installer with the original steering wheel, the wheel cover ( which have the Skyline symbol) can be pry off with a flat head screwdriver. There should b 3/4 clips holding it in place. 3. Disconnect da wiring inside. The original only come with 1 wiring for the horn. Aftermarket have 2 wires, a positive and earth wire. Just plug da positive into the socket on steering column, and for earth find a suitable grounding source (ie for me I plug the earth end to the boss kit). 4. After removal of the wiring, there is a big hex head nut on the inside, holding the steering wheel in place. Unbolt it such that it's still retained by a couple of thread. 5. Whack the crap out of the steering wheel ( kidding Just hit it firmly) towards you, so that the wheel loosen from it's bedding/groove. (that's why the bolt is handy, don't want the wheel to come off suddenly) 6. Once wheel is loose, remove the bolt, then the wheel. 7. For all AM steering wheel, there should be a corresponding boss kit specific to the car. ie, when ordering a boss kit, ask for your car model. 8. For the boss kit I ordered, it was easy to installed, coz it had the word TOP printed on it . U should align the boss kit such dat the word 'TOP' is....on the TOP side(at 12 oclock position)..hehe. U should also notice that there is a slot in the boss kit for the electrical connector. Just align the electrical connector to fit the slot. 9. Wire everything 2gether again. Positive go to electrical connector on steering column. Earth is wired to the boss kit. 10. Tighten the steering column bolt ..and everything else is straight forward after that. Note : There was no probs with HICAS playing up. Hope it cleared up everything.. Good luck. J.

My old wheel is falling apart, so I need help on installing my aftermarket steering wheel... Before u ask..yes I've done a search 2 find all I can about steering wheel installation...I just need some help in answering some question I have b4 I start fumbling around. What I need help on are: 1. I bought a boss kit for my steering wheel (its an autotecnica). The box was helpfully written in japanese, which meant I spent 1hr going WTF and searching for my old jap textbooks.Anyway, pic on box showed that a ring/spacer is needed...when I got the box, there was no such thing in it...so I"m just wondering is that n option? DO u need it.The boss kit came with 3 wires, the horn unit thing, and a steering colum cover... and a thick washer..datz it...is that all u really need? 2. I've noticed that a lot of peeps been having problem with their hicas after installing an aftermarket steering wheel. I was hoping 2 find out what is the correct step 2 ensure that after installing, the hicas doesn't stuff up... 3. Is there a spacing requirement or something when installing the wheels? COz on the box it said somthing 5.8 for a skyline R33. Hmmmz.. 4. Well, thank u for reading this far...any constructive feedback is helpful. I'll keep u posted of any probs/solution..when i finish. Cheers.

As Nugget said, once you've taken off the standard, you need to cut into the support bracing on the front. The 400R won't fit/mount onto the bracing without some cutting. The other option is to buy a bracing design for mounting the 400R f/bar. I think they're around 160 each. I got mine installed by a panel beater. I suggested that you do the same....

Need some pics man...are they standard pods? what make/brand are they? and for Gtst or GTR?

130 for timing belt change? Darn, I need your mechanic. Just had mine change during the weekend. They normally charge 200 bucks for the timing belt change...*shrugs*

I'm in Melbourne.How much is it to ship down here? Series 1 or Series 2 part is it mate?

While we're on the topic of MD/CD player not working, I've got a problem with mine also. When I input in a CD, it sometime work sometime doesn't. I don't think it's a dirty laser head, since I just had it cleaned...to no improvement. Just wondering if it's time to get the laser replace, and if so, how much would it cost roughly? Does it depend on the model? or are laser head replacement pretty much standard? BTW do you know where I can get my hand on some MD disc and recorder thingy? Coz if the CD laser head replacement become to costly, I might just use the MD instead.....

I want 2 x RHS R33 headlights...ie on the driver's side.

aftermarket wheels?

hehehe Greg..

Peeps, I'm looking for two Series 1 R33 right hand side front lights. If anyone got some lying around gathering dust, I'll be more than happy to take it off your hands, or i'll pay for it with good sex ...I mean..good money. Thanks.

I hear what you're saying Harumomo....It's beginning to hurt my pocket too, since I drive long distances to and from work...add with traffic jams... Anyway, i'm thinking of going down the 3/4 route...ie, 3 weeks regular, 1 week premium. I've used regular on occasions( "hears the boooing in the background")..ALTHOUGH so far I've been filling up with mostly premium. I haven't had any misfiring or detonation effect (maybe i'm not sure what that would sound like) when using regular. The only difference is that using regular, you will soon notice a lacking in the acceleration...I don't think there is much difference in the fuel economy between the two an extra 20 ks perhaps..not much (maybe I need my car need tuning??) *shrugs* my 2 cents

for one mate...hehe..platinum tip...they're recommended for the skyline. Worth the money, for they should last you for at least 100,000 km..or so they say...THEY=AUTOBARN