ossie_21

So if that was true that would mean you would only do it to gtr badged gtst's, I find that very unlikely. The only reason some people realise I may have some power under my bonnet is for a couple of front bar decals, if I took them off it would just look like any 33. Then other people think it's just a rice factor, then they get chopped & realise they were wrong. What are you going to do when you come up against a skyline that will chop you? Give it up?

I was going to post up asking how the cruise went & how he was going, didn't expect this though. R.I.P Ash

On another fantastic note they now plan to make the hoon law stronger by impounding cars for 1 month instead of the current 2 days, which will only bring a lot more attention to the actual enthusiasts that drive cars like ours.

As mentioned Top Racing - Unit 1, 3 Capel St, Bentley - 9458 8155 SAUWA sponsor Hyperdrive Motorsport - Unit 1, 28 Vale St, Malaga - 9209 3100 One should be able to help you out, just give them a call.

Sounds similar to the tune done on mine by Steve, and I'm running a safe boost as well. Can't go wrong with only needing 12-13psi to get 350 That's the lowest he could get it because of the wastegate spring I think it was, when it can get changed I will have 250 on one setting 350 on the other, wet weather spec & fun spec. Once upon a time I said cars were a way to go from A to B.......then I said a mildly modified R33 would keep me happy.......then I said 300rwhp would be more than enough..........I'm not going to say what I think now.

That is......so sad.

Sounds good, I have work at 2 but will be able to see the practice at least. I live in Wanneroo so I can't not go really.

Speedworks.....must buy from....speedworks................speedworks.........

Sounds like what happened to mine a couple of weeks ago. My left side headlight would be on but the right one wouldn't, then on high beam the right one was on but the left wasn't. If I screwed around a little bit with it, it would come on but turned out to be this. I ended up taking it to a auto electrician to get it fixed, got a new indicator stalk, replaced one globe & they fixed it. I probably got proper shafted but it cost me about $300...... They had to get the dip switch or whatever the hell it is from someplace, and my guess is Nissan if it cost that much. If i was you I would try & get one from a jap spare parts place or something like that if possible. This could be the price it is, but I wouldn't have thought it would cost $300 to fix a headlight problem.......

Only cheap wine comes in 5 litres?

What size gate do you have? Also in regards to tyres, they are going to be very expensive for you if this is still going to be an everyday car

Yeah that wing is pretty gay, just get rid of it, you don't need it to hold your car on the ground, and it just looks too big for the car.

I did take my camera along but didn't get around to taking any, just enjoying the sun really. Now that I think of it I don't think I even seen anyone with a camera!! Always next cruise........

As long as your mate is on his brother's policy as a driver & all mods are listed on the policy it should all be good.

He probably thought you had kids in the back, no-one's gonna race with kids in the car.

You drink your own pee.

It's a bit strange that front bar thing, I was under the impression they came from the factory as a 3 piece front bar..... Sorry Liz, I don't speak English.

Thanks for the input everyone, I went with the toyo t1r's at $350 a pop, and just like someone said in the sticky thread, you can really feel the hicas more, be getting rid of that soon I think. On the sauwa cruise today I shifted the steering wheel back & forth a bit, and didn't like the fact the car was basically correcting itself, and it made me feel I had less control of my car. Paul to answer your questions the tyres did wear evenly except for the very outside of the tyres, I have Kei Office coilovers btw. The tyres that were on it (yokohama neovas) came with the car from Japan so they were on, they were in pretty decent condition since I got it (May last year), it had 77,000km done & when I got them changed I had about 93,000 so about 16,000k's or so I got out of them. I *could* have got more but when the power is too much for them to hold traction it's better to let them go obviously. Thanks again everyone!

I thought it was a pretty good cruise, Park Rd in the day time is better because you can see the bumps better, but there was some nice roads to drive on in the map. A big thank you to the committee for organising this, was good to be able to put some faces to names from here, managed to meet some people, and hopefully be able to meet more some other time. Thanks again, Nathan

Always nice to see a car get some good work put into it, my 33 went from near stock (performance mods were a pod & cat back, others was coilies & rims), to getting fmic, turbo back & a mech boost controller. Then came the big turbo, ecu & a couple of small things, from almost stock to 350rwhp in 8 months or so. Unsure what's next because I qualify from my apprenticeship in November & don't know what I might be doing after that. I will either stay in Perth, move to Queensland or head overseas, don't know just yet. Good luck with the car, Nathan

Poor taste but I'll pay that

One of you 4-door guys need to make a thread saying how much 2 door skyline suck, I can't believe people are making an issue out of this.

Kym has been owned in his thread twice already, hahahaha I'm happy with my 2 doors, I'm happy with my car, and whatever I do to my car I don't mind what anyone else thinks. If someone wants or has a 4-door, I'm not going to hold it against them.

Tyres are in important & often overlooked part of safety, so I'm not going to be a stingy bastard, considering the power I'm looking at around $400ea, but as I said the best value, and maybe the one that would be best would be $280ea. I've never found myself in this situation, that's all.

Hi guys, first off let me say please don't chew me out about not looking at threads or using the search, as I have but it's very difficult to find the right info, and things do change so outdated threads may or may not help. Now, my rear tyres are getting rather close to needing a change, and it will be done in the next week more than likely. I am after advice hopefully with people with the same sort of rw output, and what tyres are the best value. So the requirements are 255/40 17, being capable of holding traction with 350rwhp, and capable of good handling in both wet & dry conditions. Looking through the sticky thread, the 2 that stood out the most for me are the Hankook K104 & Nankang sII's, but obviously there is a big difference from 220 to 350, especially with the cheap-ish nankangs...... Currently & since I had the car I have had Yokohama Advan Neova's, and have been good from near stock to how it is now, but in the wet I thought they were a let down. Since I have had 350 it hasn't been wet, but even when I got it they slipped fairly easily. The lowest power my car could be tuned to was 347 because of the wastegate spring, and until I can get that changed it's at a bit less than that, as I run 1psi less. With the ecu I will have 2 maps, 1 at about 260rwhp for everyday driving, and probably get the 2nd a bit higher to about 365 for when it's time to have some fun. But this difference & coming up to winter, I want a tyre for all conditions I am off today so I will be calling around a few places for quotes & advice, but advice from SAU is always appreciated because there you're not trying to sell a certain product. Cheers, Nathan edit, just realised it would be mostly the east coasters reading this, and you prefer kw So it's about 265-270rwkw I think.