4door_Sleeper

Not sure I understand this bit. A pod on a side skirt?

Pain, lots of it. You might want to apply a liberal amount of KY Jelly before you go there. Restore EVERYTHING back to stock before you go, fix all leaks ans oil stains, tidy up your wiring loom, and get the suspension checked out for worn parts and ride height.

??? ??? Pods are the bit of the body kit that sit on the rear guards behind the wheeles. (the continuation of the side skirts)

Not my car, I was waiting at the bus stop. Saw you between Milne Rds heading towards the Plaza.

Dont think his sons have lines (they would have to be 40+ anyway) He has also painted Willals silver drag GTR

Prices are dropping all the time. I couldnt sell my 4 door 33 with some nice mods and power figures last year for 15k. Dont rush and a good deal should come up.

You cant go wrong with Des Higgins, he is on Shannons list (I used him). Panels were all beaten straight and lead whiped, their craftsmanship is hard to find anywhere in the Country. His workshop is out near Parafield Airport, si it might be a bit of a trip.

Think I spotted Helso on Golden Grove Rd this afternoon

I thought I read somewhere that the chrossfire is just a merc sports (not sure which model) with different panels on the outside. (so its really a merc)

I believe stock is 1800. To check this out put the car in Drive, put your foot on the break and gently press down on the accelerator. The revs should quickly rise to about 1800rpm, then slowly up to around 2000rpm before the rears tyres start to spin. Hope this helps.

I just think of it as good time management.

Then Im out (and staying out)

That sounds like a great idea. Count me IN, no OUT, IN, OUT. oh oh - sorry

Yes, but as a Doctor you can just refer anything you don’t know to a specialist friend, or else prescribe something and charge the patient again on a return visit if they don’t work. Besides if you fail the exams they will probably still employ you at Flinders Medical.

for those who are after the prices and details on the valve bodies (shift kits) and torque converters go to this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=62854 My 33 has run 13.2's with a failing diff, and Tein suspension (way too hard for drags). I got the best time manually selecting gears rather than leaving it in drive, but I also have a PFC so this may make a slight difference to my shift points.

My auto 33 hasnt had any trouble keeping up with Trick's GTR on some of the more spirited hills runs. (No I'm not saying I'm faster, just that I can keep up without pushing it 100%) My guess is that some of those sesions are as hard as you should want to push the car on public roads, but if you were at the track that might be a different story. A well set up auto will have problems on some some race tracks, but through the adelaide hills its never held me back or made me nervous with strange shifting

Give Mike a ring at MV automatics, he's a good guy and very helpful. He may have the 34 valve bodies, I just dont know.

Prices on the shift kit and torque converters have been updated today. Full details are on the first post. Quick summery: Valve body is $330 +$55 deposit + postage of between 20 and 30 dollars Higher speed torque converters of between 2800 and 3000rpm are $410 changeover

Illegal. Altering the boost wil effect emissions, and hence is illlegal. (but its so much fun to increase the boost, just make it as discreet as possible and hope that if you are pulled over they dont find it. My thoughts are that if they defect you for a discreet boost controller then they probably would have made something up to defect you for if they hadnt found it. Do the right thing, dont draw attention to yourself and you should be OK.

The torque converter acts as both a clutch (stops the auto stalling when you are stationary) which is designed to lock/stall (or almost lock if you want to be technical) up at a certain RPM. You could consider it as being similar to the manual clutch and easing the pedal out so that the clutch locks up as a certain RPM. Another benefit of the torque converter is that it also multiplies the amount of torque the engine produces up to the lock point. (and torque wins races, Horse power is for boasting) A higher RPM torque converter has the benefit of allowing you to have more torque up to the stall point (the curse of high RPM turbo motors has been cured) at the expense of poor fuel economy at any RPM below the stall point. If you were after a quarter mile rocket you may want to install a torque converter that wouldn’t stall until 5000rpm, which would suit a car with a big turbo and cams that pulled from 5000 - 9000RPM, but if you were to drive the car down the road at 60kmph you wouldn’t be at 5000 RMP, so the torque converter wouldn’t have locked up, and your fuel economy would be awful. Most people install a much more conservative torque converter that will lock up by 60kmph for a street car - perhaps 2500 - 3000 rpm depending upon the turbos and power curve of the motor. You will notice the car will rev quickly up to the stall speed, and will have more torque down low, and hence be a lot quicker off the line. With an auto this will also mean your boost will kick in earlier as well. Hope this helps.

I'll give Mike a ring and see what the prices will be. I will also see what he can do as a group buy on torque converters. (nothing too over the top- just enought for a daily driver yet a bit more stick than stock)

Whilst I agree a manual ecu should be best, its also possible that in swapping the 2 over you have also done an ECU reset (usually done by disconnecting the battery and holding your foot on the break pedel) Although I have never done this (I use a PFC) I have heard many others claim that the car is much more responsive after an ECU reset as it learns over time and reduces performance.

good cruise (the bit I was on) and great to catch up with people again.

I did this 18 months ago. (Qld to SA) Just take it down to Sturt St? Inspection station for a Vin check, then drop the papers and Qld plates off at your local motor reg office and collect your new plates and a rego sticker. Sturt St Inspection station are much better than regency, just make sure obvious defects are removed (tyres etc) but if its stock you shouldnt have too many problems there.

I'd agree with that. Wash it to keep it clean, wax it in a month or too for protection and it shouldnt need a real polish (ie cutting compounds) My car was painted close to 3 years ago, and to this day it hasnt needed a polish, it is just washed and waxed reguarly. (has had a few bits touched with the clay)