4door_Sleeper

Upgrade to an RB25 B)

I have heard many hi-flows make very little more power than a standard turbo (but are less likley to break down) thats why I went for a GCG and made 20% more power without any other mods. The general opinion is that GCG hi-flows are good for around 260rekw

Mine made around 140rwkw when purchased in sock condition. (60,000km ish)

PM me please. Not sure which skyline to bring, will I need boost or not?

Ring Mike at MV automatics. If you let him know you are from Skylines Australia he will give you discount on the skyline valve body (and perhaps otherservices) They are top gyoup of guys and girls.

I have also seen the malpassi used on a number of big budget drag cars - so they cant be all bad.

I have just sent in mine :-)

Normal mods - 3 inch exhaust (turbo back), intercooler, pod filter in a custom cold air box, GCG hi-flow turbo, power FC, fuel pump and the MV Automatics shift kit.

I have only taken the car down to the track once, I managed a 13.08 second 1/4 mile at 105 mph. My 60ft was bad due to a diff that kept on free-wheeling.

Yes - just to be a little different.

I use a PFC on my show car (and it works fine) and my wifes car has an SAFCII and an SITC.

the front mount should compensate, but it isnt a situation you reall want. You should partition the pod and feed it a diet of nice cold air to get the full benifit.

The funny thing is that if some of the older guys read this they will wet themselves at the comments. Whilst I agree there are many people who make tall claims and boast about boost, the modification scene today requires really requires very little prior experience, just some cash. The reason why there are so many modified cars today (both imports and local) is because everyone (well most people anyway) just spend the cash and follow a simple proven formulae (exhaust, intercooler, ecu, turbo – sound familiar). The reason there weren’t so many modified cars 30 years ago was because you couldn’t just go to a shop and purchase parts in the same way. A lot of the customizing was done in back sheds by guys who made their own parts or fabricated modifications from different vehicles (we don’t see a lot of this today) So before you cast too many aspersions on “ the new car generation who have grown up on Fast and the furious and neon lights, and who don’t understand the idea of "supporting mods" or have the idea that when modding a car its like "how much for 2bar of boost.” Just remember that we too are a new car generation who don’t know how to modify a car, and who only bolt on aftermarket accessories. (no difference between adding a radio or a turbo is there? These older guys used to make their own headers, modify the turbo themselves, roll some new flared guards and then chop 4inches out of the roof))

I'd be very keen to see a price and picture of a front and/or read undertray.

They were certainly more succeeptable to detonation after Mik touched them.

There are always those who still haven't had a retune since Mik from Tilbrooks touched their cars (admitedly most of them dont run anymore)

I am always looking for a positive, so another way of putting it is that the acid eats away at the combustion chamber (making it larger) and hence decompresses it allowing me to run more boost (and hence get more power without detonation). How much sulphur fuel will I need to get my RB25 up to an RB26? The glass is always half full.

OK so thats one strike against BP. The fewer trees there are the less there is to crash into. :-)

You can plug it in yourself in 5 minutes and drive away. (its defaualt setup is a little bit better than the factory programming.) then at some stage afterwards take it in to your trusted dyno and get them to fine tune it to your car.

A recent write up in a magazine found all 98ron fuels were 98, but the age of the fuel will make a difference. I think this is the big benefit with BP as they use fewer aromatics to produce 98ron, and hence it is less susceptible to the age problem.

I have been offered a GTR rear end for a few hundred dollars. The $1100 Kaaz option is the price I was quoted for the center only, then I neeed to install it, plus bearings, plus plus, pluss (final price between 1500-2500 depending upon what they find) Hence the interest in a n R32 GTR diff option.

gdg079 - dont believe the 200rwkw figures, whats more important is the increase in power you get for your mods. (so try and use the same dyno to compare results) Dynos are notoriously variable from shop to shop and some workshops will give high figures to impress their customers. 140 isnt a bad figure, but with an SAFC or Power FC you will be able to untap more top end power and a better midrange. If you are considering turbos etc in the future go for a new ecu such as Power FC, Motec etc rather than SAFC etc which dont really do the whole job.

OK then, sounds like the GTR option is a good one. What I am left unsure of is if a GTR diff from an R32 (full set disk to disk), can be grafted into my 33GTSt?

Look at changing your engine management system, then maybe a turbo, or theres the Wet NOS systems if you are just after bang for your buck.

Thanks bunta