4door_Sleeper

I agree with the comments made above, BUT until I knew it was the sender I would be VERY careful and get it to a mechanic to check it out. It wont take very long to destroy your engine IF the pressure is failing, so IMHO its not worth the risk, and I would get it checked out ASAP (I may even consider getting a tow to the workshop rather than continuing to drive it) My intention wasn’t to scare the Bejesus out of Yap, but it is a potentially very serious situation.

Take it to a mechanic straight away. This will kill your engine in no time. You may be lucky and they find the fault in the guage, but if its the pump or a problem with the oil your motor wont have long to live.

Where did you get the turbo from? This matches some of the stories I was told about by workshops in Adelaide, and the main reason I went to GCG instead of some of the local turbo shops. You may be able to put in a claim through consumer affairs if they advised a power rating that isnt achievable (and provided your support systems are not the problem)

I believe they look the same, but one of the holes isnt in the correct place. Dont try and scrimp money here, get the timing belt, pullies and pump replaced at the same time by a workshop with experience. Check the forums and you will find horror stories of where this simple repair has destroyed engines.

Get some legal advice. (or take a photo of a burnout and report the police officer or judge)

Try GCG turbos at www.gcg.com.au - I'm sure they were mentioned earlier in this thread. They also did my turbo and I can vouch for the results Sydney Kid and others mentioned. IMHO well worth the money.

I'll never trust anyone else to polish my car. - (I wash and clean it at least twice a week - if you keep it clean the paint wont deteriorate as quick so its an easy job) It takes me at least 2 days if the car needs a full detail. I would avoid using a buff if you can help it. A light hand cut with a pad and T-Cut on the worst bits, Maguiars Quick Clay, then micromesh 3 times, then a good quality polish (again I prefer Meguiars but there are a few others). If you do a good job there will be NO swirl marks of any kind (from any angle or in any light) You should be able to do the exterior in a day, but its another day to do the fiddly bits inside the boot, bonnet and doors. Remember the put in on stands, remove the wheels, clean and polish the rims, clean under the guards, treat the plastic and polish the painted surfaces (shocks, springs suspension arms etc.) and give the exhaust a good clean with Autosol or Mothers metal polish). All clean, now get it inside because the rain is coming. I'd say $200 is a good price if the work is up to this standard. PS: DONT let Nightcrawler do your car - he knows why :-)

I am with Bigponds cable network, and I am yet to see anyone else get the same speed as I do (in their homes). I am very happy with the service and reliability of BP Cable (but I do realise they weren't always that good in the past) Ben, I admit I dont know much about internodes 24MBit, but until they deliver it into my street I wouldnt pick them as an ISP because in my experience "the next 2-3mths" often ends up beeing 12-24mths. That said I will look at it when its offered. ATM its cable for me.

So how often do you get down to Adelaide? A nice quiet country town might be the go.

Could you advise them that you are working at a mine, or somewhere way up north, and make a request someone else fit the plate bue to the inconvinience of returning to Adelaide? It may be easier to drive to Pt Agusta (not a bad drive) just to have it fitted.

What injectors do you have? I am after a set for my rb25det

What side of Adelaide are you in.

Fantastic. I went to Nissan to order a new catch, and was told I had to order a whole new lid ($80). I was just about to ring back and confirm the order when I saw this post. Thanks a lot. thommo - I owe you a beer next time your in Adelaide.

I spent some time at a recent motor show talking to one of the bigwigs at Chrysler, who let a few interesting comments slip. Local manufacturers and resellers have an organised campaign to stop imports (AKA the 15 yr rule) as it hurts their business. (but he agreed they offer great value for money, and that most local offerings are years behind) They are discussing the idea of not offering trade-ins on imports, (i.e. - you sell it yourself privately and then come and purchase a car from us.) Initially I thought this would be cutting their own throats, but if there were sufficient numbers of yards that do this, the public perception would be that imports are a problem at the time of sale. In light of the cash for comments scandal, it makes me wonder if someone else isn’t pushing this agenda. It’s not looking good for import owners.

Can I please reduce the level of depravity in this thread. Good on you r33gts for having the guts to start this great thread. Can I also offer you some help by directing you to another thread that may be useful after your date. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=62642 - how to remove Cum Stains.

Go-carts and Dodgem-cars isnt the race winning stratergy the same?

A dyno will indicate the improvemanet of power for a given set of modifications, (provided you use the same dyno and they are consistent in their readings), but gives little to no indication of how the car will perform on the road. eg - I'll take a 100rwkw bike over a 300rwkw car, but even in this example ther are so many variables that could make one a lot better than an other.

Thats why you should spend some cash on your tyres. Those Bob Jane - Assie all rounders are good for 200,000 km, but they have as much grip as seven layers of pig snot on a door handle.

To be fair, I have been there a few times and they have been very helpful. Granted I didn’t purchase my car from them, but they have lent me tools for adjusting my TEIN HA's (at that time I was just someone off the street), and sourced new parts a for me cheaper than Nissan offered. I also ran into them at AIR and they were friendly and helpful. I am not disputing that they may have some unhappy customers (which shop doesn’t), but my experiences have all been positive

It has been said before but I will say it again A dyno is a tuning device ONLY Dyno figures dont win drags or circuits. If they did the race would be won or lost in the workshop, and there would be no point going on the track.

a 10rwkw gain on any car is free NOW that i have your attention, read the fine print just disconnect the line for the boost actuator, and leave it open, instantly maxium boost at any rpm, butonly good for 1 run. This could give you anywhere from 10rwkw to 50rwkw gain and costs nothing to achieve................. but then comes the rebuild cost.....???

GCG ballance and machine all components. They have 2 options - with ball bearings (a bit more expensive) or with a bush (a bit cheaper) The ball bearing unit should spool up quicker (but dont ask me how much quicker) I just spent the bit extra so I wouldnt regret it later. (Do it once, and do it right) I am 99.9% sure all r33s use the same T3 flange, so there is no problem with swapping them.

I think the difference in responces from workshops comes from what a hi-flowed turbo is. Anyone can take your turbo and give it back as a Hi-flow, but from what I have seen GCG are the only ones that reliably deliver the goods. I went through this process at the start of the year, and dont regret the GCG turbo. Additional benifits include the stock look - so no real problems with the police, the price (pm me) and the ease of instalation, and response.

If only it were that easy. In the long run it is more expensive than just purchasing a turbod skyline. The higher compression ratio is good when you are off of boost, but will cause your engine to detonate at a lower boost level, so in the end it will be a bit more responsive off boost but lack the power under boost. Other factors to consider in the conversion are brake upgrades, engine management etc,

Dont believe everything they say about autos. Mine is good for high 12 second passes (i have done a 13.08, but with hard suspension and a stuffed diff). I havve over 200rwkw and its not a problem for the auto. PKBLADES estimate of a 20% loss in power compared to a manual is a myth. PAULR33 I have seen more manuals give up at 200rwkw than autos, and if you factor in the number of clutches they burn, the autos are way ahead. I would listen to PREDITOR, its more a preference. In love the auto in city traffic, and its not been a problem for me on the strip or hills runs, but on a track I agree it would show its flaws. There are some great advantages to installing a new valve body (Check out the group buy section) and a torque converter if you are looking at quick 1/4 mile times. Another advantage of the auto is their price, a replacement auto is a lot cheaper than a clutch, and should last a lot longer.