4door_Sleeper

1992 - Gun Metal Grey GTR Brakes Heavy Duty Clutch Turbo Timer Alarm Boost Guage Exhaust Sterio Tinted Windows 1st Australian Owner $14,000 ono (rear tyres low, reg runs out soon)

If I remember correctly you have the same effect at the skyline dinners when you start talking :-P

but according to Boyles law (pv=nkt) pressure is proportional to temperature, so in the absence of any other changes in the system (ie same intercooler, pipes, and same pressure of 14psi) then the temp shouldnt be any different.

Get a restrictor thet screws or clips into the tip. Any restriction should help reduce the noise.

mr-rbman - I asked around a month ago and whilst there was no problem with the quality of the work done by ATS, the power results were not as good. (opinions from a few dyno shops around adelaide) As I said befor, at the same PSI I am getting about a 20% improvement in power (so I guess about a 20% improvement in flow)

Congrats.. Just a little bit of advice though (don’t let Julie read this) when Jordan cries at night, pretend you didn’t hear anything and let Julie get it. (you will thank me for this advice in a year or two) During the day however alls fair. Take time off of work and enjoy time with the kids. Its a bit of a cliché (?) but they grow up so fast, don’t miss it. If you don’t bond now it will be too late.

I have just installed a high flow in my RB25DEt, and it was better value than a HKS 2530. Its a direct fit, and boost comes on just as good as standard. From what I can measure so far it improves flow (and kw) by about 20% at the same boost, but has the ability to boost much higher. At this stage I am only running 14psi and get 220rwkw vs my std turbo that got around 180rwkw

OK guys, the final prices are posted. (prices posted above and below) WinK - yes you can keep your valve body, but can we do your order in the second group so others aren't held up when Mike only has 3 valve bodies in stock. Price $295 + $50deposit on your valve body (refunded upon the return of your old, but still servicable, valve body) Postage Costs (5.5kg) with TnT - $22 to Melb, $28 to Syd Perth or Bris (each way) Service Kit $33 - dont skimp, get one of these if you can (either from Mike or from whoever installs the valve body for you) The easiest way to organise payment is to ring Mike at MV Automatics (08) 8370 0430 - (the price is already discounted so there is no benifit in transfering it to my account and then me paying him, and its better insurance for you to deal direct with the supplier) and give credit card details to him. If you dont have a credit card PM me and transfer the money to my account and I will pay him for you. Good news for owners of R34s these can be done (one at a time) for the same price, Mike will get a valve body soon and modify it for us but at this stage he is reluctant to get 4 or 5 of them at once, so there will be a bit of a delay, but they can also be ordered. Phone MV automatics (08) 8370 0430 and mention that you are a part of the GROUP BUY from Skylines Australia, and that the prices are $295 + deposit and shipping.

Sorry guys really busy at work atm, will finalise the group buy REALLY soon

My 60's wernt that good - 2.192

But just think of the opportunities to improve your cars. If the cars are impounded and sold off there will be some cheep parts around. I think I just heard John and Kier doing burnouts in my street :jk: Now who else do I know with some good bits on their cars (that I want):wassup: In all honesty these rules are a backwards step, criminals get a better deal than this. I wonder if it will get to a stage where high perforance cars wont bother to pull over for the flashing blue lights, they might just as well take a chance at outrunning the police. (and we know we can)

Best time was 13.08, so 12.74 still stands....for now.... It took a while to get the hang of it, but it was great fun. My biggest problems were the Tein HA's (just way too firm) and my LSD might be giving up the ghost, a few times during the burnout one wheel seemed to stop spinning then restart again. I'll try again in a few months after I sort out the suspension

I use S03's - great drive in the wet or the dry, noise is minimal, but I use RE540's for the track.

In a 33 its a direct swap, no mods.

I have Tein HA, they are a firm ride (sometimes too firm on rutted roads) but if the road is half way decent they handel very well. An added benifit is available if your passenger is well endowed (bouncy, bouncy :boobies2:)

The best cure is a good quality pollish toprevent the problem in the first place. (but as Skyline-Boy said "dont leave it on for two long") A mild cut and polish scould work if all else fails, but this is really your last resort.

Fitted them this afternoon, they seem OK, but I havnt realy tried them out yet. Just a quick drive down to OG road to get their 100 octain fuel (in peak hour traffic) so its hard to say. They are definatly noisier than the S03's.

Matt, guess this means you didnt fly out today, will you still be comming to the drags? Andrew, gates open at 4:00pm, racing starts at 5:00

Erica - I need a tutor. Going for my first run at the drags tomorrow. Have put the 540's on the back but didnt get time to take off my TEIN's Look out for the silver 33 (auto) that stalls on the line. :headspin:

The numbers arnt huge, but the new turbo (CGC High-flow) was a great upgrade. I hope to up the boost soon and get closer to 250.

I'm cool with that.

I took my auto into MV and had them install both the shift kit and a trans cooler. The trans cooler is just for insurance, as they say its heat that kills an auto, and I give mine a bit of stick through the hills (closed tracks only :bs!: ) and plan to give it a few runs at the drags (at AIR, not those red yellow green ones all over the place) The shifts are now incredibly fast when I put the foot down (especially first to second) and the tyres will chirp during gear changes. Off the line there is very little can keep up with me unless I give it too much stick and go into uncontrolled wheel spin. (theTEIN HA are a part of this problem - good for runs in the hills but not so good for stationary launches) The auto is defiantly the go for gear changes as the throttle stays wide open and you don’t come off of boost. The big benefit is that in bumper-to-bumper traffic (where you don’t floor it) it drives much like a std skyline (no wheel spin) just a little bit firmer shifts. When you look at the money the manual guys spend on clutches (every 12 months or so) why would you go past the auto. Hope this is helpful.

For those guys who do this reguarly, do you have any advice on where to get some good tyres for the night, I'm not sure my 215 S03's would do the car justice.

I dont work for MV, nor am I an Auto expert. I think in this case the best advice I can give you is to ring Mike at MV AUTOMATICS (1 Stirling Rd Blackwood SA 5051 (08) 8370 0430 ) and ask him. Sorry I can't give a better answer, but I'd rather put you on the right path than give poor advice.

I see..... You too want to be an individual just like the rest of us :-%