4door_Sleeper

I know nissan made a car (cant remember which one - one of those small cc jap race cars) that had both a supercharger and a turbo on it. The supercharger would give it the botton end power then as the revs rose and the turbo came onto boost it would change over to the turbo. A supercharger has all of the advantages that a Tubro has as disadvantages(ie good at the bottom, running out of puff at the top, no lag, turbo has no reall loss of power at the bottom end, but the supercharger takes power from the bottom end of the rev range)

Limited in what way?

Someone want to tell Michael Schumacher (Sp??) that he is a crap driver because he drives an auto in F1

Great Idea

True, but a few of the Stageas I was looking at last month had had them put back on. I know they should come off for compliance, but sometimes they seem to reapear by the time they get into the car yard (or are sold as private cars) We have recently purchased a BA Falcon that came from a fleet interstate. When the dealer took us down to regency to get plates issued (along with a second car) the other one was defected for having tint on the windows. (these are australian cars, 2-3 years old.) No plate was issued to the other car until the dealer brings it back with the tint removed. I dont know if you have been to Regency befor, but from what I've read on these forums they are amongst the worst in Aust when it comes to Imports.

I think your rivals are already well ahead of you by then. The only reason you skate past them is that the run is over and they have backed off. Just think about the slightly taller diff ratio in an auto, when you are reaching for second they still have a bit to go in first. (So why would you have caught them by the 1st to second change) From this it sounds like there should be hundreds of autos written off on those twisty hill runs, but for some reason they are never there when I go up. I'd be happy to buy some of the wrecks and get the go faster pieces.

Just remember that all Stageas come from either Queensland or WA, as they are the only places that can comply them. It is true that regency will inspect any vehicle from interstate (import or local) prior to issuing rego and numberplates. And you probably know how tough regency can be on imports, so at least get the car in stock trim prior to its inspection (i.e. no window tint, boost controller, front mount etc.) then put all the good stuff back on. From my experience, and what I have heard, don’t take the car there if you are young. Its much better to get your old man to take it down (and act as if its his car) or if you are a bit older, get the wife to go and register it (with the kids in tow). You are much less likely to get a hard time if you follow this advice.

If you shift when you hit the limmiter you are probably shifting way too late anyway. Next time you get it on the dyno get a printout of the torque, KW plotted against RPM to work out where you get most torque and a what RPM to change.

Yes that was drive in, drive away. Not bad when I estimated a normal auto trans service (which was due) would cost $100 anyway. Re power difference between manuals and autos - have you taken into account the different dif ratios?

MV Automatics here in Adelaide (1 Stirling Rd Blackwood 5051) put the shift kit in my car for $300, and they told me they have sold the kit to other auto trans companies across the country. (ring them (08) 8370 0430 to get a price and then see how much your local shop will charge to fit it.) I also had them fit a trans cooler at the same time (heat is not your friend).

You convert autos to manuals because BOY RACERS believe the dribble you posted above. The autos are reliable (yes we can both site cases where an auto OR manual let go at some low KW or Km.) Drivetrain loss is only a few KW more than a manual. But also consider the advantage of knowing your shift points are going to be at the optimal point rather thn being driven well past the top of the torque curve as is all to common with inexperienced drivers. I agree OLD autos AKA Torqueflight, Powerglide (Holden, ford Chrysler) were slush boxes that drained power and weighed a tonn, but the newer autos are in a different league.

The reason the GTR came out ONLY with a manual is because it is set up for track and competition work. If it was built only for the drags I am sure it would have been an auto. Flat shifting a manual isn’t good for its longevity unless you spend the BIG bucks for a new gear set. The auto also benefits from a torque converter, so off the line it instantly has more torque than a manual, and you know what they say - "KW are good for those who like to talk, but its torque that wins races" Another advantage of the auto is its cheep cost to modify. I have 200rwkw and the cost to add a shift kit was about $300, and I doubt you could flat shift any quicker than my auto shifts. A second hand tranny costs $200 if you ever need one where as I know of many guys who are on their 3rd or 4th clutch (some of which cost thousands). For daily driving an auto is much better, for a monster motor the auto makes it quite driveable, but I agree for track work the auto wont cut the mustard. (However for the dollars some spend on clutches and gear sets in track cars, a nice 6 speed tiptronic might be the way to go)

Nudey - didnt know your mum was considering putting NOs on her ride. :kick:

Multiply by 1.2 so 210rwKW = 252 fwKW (its close, but if you want to boast multiply by 1.3 and tell your mates you have 273 fwKW.) Or convert it to horse power and get the big numbers - very popular with advertising gurus and Western Australians :Oops:

Not sure it’s any more accurate. In Aust and USA and I am sure they try several new motors and play with the tunning fuel etc to get the highest figure possible to impress the bogans. I'd love a dollar for every time a Holden owner laughs when I tell then I got 200KW on the dyno, to which they reply "thats nothing the ss commodore has XXXKW". Is it worth my time to explain the difference between the advertised engine figure, the real world figure produced by most cars that leave the factory, and rear wheel KW. Then there is the power to weight aspect as well as handling and power delivery ........

KW at the flywheel are always more than at the rear wheels. The difference depends upon the type of transmission (4x4, Manual, Auto) and its condition the driveline. Many people quote between 20 and 30% loss of power between the flywheel and rear wheels. (Its a guess at the loss as no 2 cars would be exactly the same due to wear and tear)

A larger turbo is also illegal, as is an aftermarket ECU, so Nitrous is no different. To remove it and make it legal just take out the bottle. (without a bottle its only use is for track work officer)

I looked at this car too, and took it for a drive. I wouldnt consider it to be in "Immaculate condition" but it is quite clean. We were offered the car for $26000 without a trade in (no haggling or negotiation at that stage so I am sure Michael would go lower) I thought it was a bit too expensive, and for the prices you are better to go Queensland or WA.

Nice shots of melboune, I guess it made even better by the fact that there are no Victorians A nice place to visit, but ther cant play football.

Sorry if you didn’t like the answer, but it is a serious suggestion and about the best option I can see for you with a budget of $2000. If you don’t like it then ignore it. I guess you wont want to see my suggestion if you are after a $200 paint job then. :headspin: Sounds like a graduate who thinks the world owes them a living. :usuck: What’s wrong with TAFE? Sorry but you came on the forums asking s somewhat ridiculous question, that has to either be dismissed as being another 13 year old with no grip on reality or someone who is going to need a creative solution. Your uni degree really means squat, I have a couple of degrees myself as well as experience lecturing and tutoring at various institutions.

Mine paint job was about $10,000 and the car was in good condition to start with. Add an extra couple of thousand for a body kit and fitting and you have no change out of $12,000. If you only have $2000, enrole at TAFE in an automotive painting pre-voc course, get an apprenticeship then in 15 to 20 years paint it in your own workshop for the cost of materials only. (you may even get change from $2000)

Mine paint job was about $10,000 and the car was in good condition to start with. Add an extra couple of thousand for a body kit and fitting and you have no change out of $12,000. If you only have $2000, enrole at TAFE in an automotive painting pre-voc course, get an apprenticeship then in 15 to 20 years paint it in your own workshop for the cost of materials only. (you may even get change from $2000)

You will struggle to get 250 out of the standard injectors without at least a new rising rate regulator. (and I wouldnt really consider 300) If you are going to spend the $ requred to build a RELIABLE 300rwkw motor the $1000 (or a bit less) for new injectors will be only a small component. Check out some of the other threads, but you will need to strenghen the internals (rods and pistons) turbo, intercooler, ECU etc etc. your up for several thousand to do this, then you have a problem of getting traction on a gtst with that much power.

My mistake/omission - you do have to change the caliper seals aswell. I have seen the results of the two fluids mixing on rubber seals, they dont let go straight away but they will let go.

Hi Greg. Just a thought (I think you’ve got enough advise on how to change the lines here) but why not change the fluid over to silicon based at the same time? I am assuming you are going to replace all brake lines, so why not put new seals in the master cylinder at the same time and then use silicon fluid (a better option for track work or runs up the Gorge). You don’t want to mix the two fluids however; any rubber that’s had the old brake fluid on it cannot be used with the silicon fluid (hence replacing the master cylinder rubbers). This would probably be best performed at a workshop that car flush out all of your lines then refit and fill with silicon fluid.