4door_Sleeper

Kits (side skirts) for the 4 door are a bit harder to find than for a 2 door but they are available. An intercooler fits just as easy on a 4 door as it does on a 2 door, which means you will have to cut up the front bar a bit to make it fit (depending upon your original front bar). My series 1 front bar had to be chopped quite a bit to fit the intercooler, but looked good when finished.

Here is mine, I dont think there is another quite like it.

Why not meet at the Brit for a meal prior to Xmas and have a cruise early in the new year. If its going to be prior to Xmas its prob either Fri 17th Sat 18th Sun 19th For those that could make it along, which date suits best? 26th Dec, 2nd Jan? For a cruise after Xass, anyone want to suggest a date?

I'll be there.

nice work :-P

I will vouch for Kym (skylines) comments, Wally is very helpful and the quality of his work is excellent. I believe the front bonnet he has at the moment is a series 2, and it has great venting, and looks the part (hey kym, did you consider getting the first 2 layers done in carbon fiber, I think it would look great if your into carbon fiber bonnets)

Which Nikky are you talking about? I hope it was the one attached to that girl behind the bar. (I never did find out what she called the other one :-P)

We had a top night, thanks matt

Thanks for the loan of the solenoid and controller, :thankyou: I have tried both and the problem still remains. I have also replaced all of the vacuum hoses, and have now plumbed the control unit into the bow-off vacuum line (to further reduce the length of hose) but the problem still remains. At this stage I will accept help from Japanese Holly men :ghost: , Voodoo priests, Jedi knights or anyone else with similar qualifications

MASON - a PFC, 3 inch exhaust (from turbo to tip), intercooler and a bit more boost (13psi) should get you around 200rwkw (or just a bit short) depending upon how agressive the tuner is. Some cars seem to come up better than others, but you may also have to factor in a fuel pump to get there (depends on the condition of your pump, but it is also good insurance)

If you have a exhaust, pod & bov the next mods could include : PFC, an intercooler should be on your list as a needed upgrade, and a boost controller (bleed valves are cheap, but electronic boost controllers (EBC)are a better option) To get the most bang for your buck I would add the PFC and a bleed valve for now (set to 12psi), then look at getting an intercooler next and upgrading to an EBC later. (You know that getting a SAFC is only a stop gap measure and that if you want to go further you will have to get a PFC or simillar in the end, so dont waste the cash, and get the PFC first) Your next lot of upgrades could include a fuel pump, perhaps injectors (or a fuel regulator) and un upgraded turbo. These upgrades are all for the motor, but dont forget to ensure the WHOLE car is up to spec, you may need to upgrade/check the brakes tyres and suspension to get the best out of your car.

I had a PFC very early in my mods, and wouldnt do it any other way (unless you have the cash to do all mods at once) The PFC makes the car a lot better to drive and removes the flat spot in the middle of the std EC. Ther car pulled strong all the way to the rev limit, and any other mods are easy to tune for.

Thanks steve, I've already had a look at that, and its not the problem.

Just some thoughts on TEIN suspension, I am looking for comments from those WITH experience in track/competition. (based on comments made above) My experience (little) and reading suggest that there are 2 trains of thought on setting up a car for track/road work. 1- Strong springs and weak swaybars. 2- Strong sway bars and week springs. Would setting up a skyline with TEIN HA's and swaybars (especially stiffer aftermarket ones) be too stiff and result in poor handling? I realise that the surface plays a big part in the choice of suspension (I dont expect to se my TEIN HAs on a rally car any time soon) so I am assuming a suitabally smooth and hard surface. Has anyone here used TEIN HAs on the track and can advise on the sway bars they use (perhaps SK )

I would have though you would look at purchasing a Japanese car (direct from Japan) set up for track work with all the mods already done to it. If you want it for racing then there isn’t a compliance issue, and it should be cheaper to get a car someone has already spent the R&D on. I am not suggesting it would be ready to race straight off of the boat (I am sure it would need a freshen up - suspension and motor) but it could save a fortune on buying the parts here. With this in mind I am guessing there are VERY limited numbers of cars like this up for sale, so you may have to take the GTSt or GTR based solely on what is available at the time.

Go and see Wally at Sillins Special Vehicles (Lonsdale) I can vouch for his work, its top quality. He can also arrange for someone to paint the bodykit.

Weq The sharp/soft dial you are talking about is set to 100% sharp - things only get worse if i turn it towards soft. Thanks for the thought though. If anyone else has had this problem I am open to your ideas as well.

Hi Maxx I have checked for leaks, but havnt found any. It holds its pressure/vacume well, and I have it set to 13psi (no trouble and no spikes). But wouldnt a leak give me higher boost? After all a bleed valve is really just a controlled leak device, so is anything a leak should give me more boost (not that the amount of boost is a problem) My problem is that the boost is comming on much later in the rev range. Thanks for your thoughts however. If anyone else has had this problem I am open to your ideas as well.

This is a follow up to my previous call for help. Since installing my profec B, I continue to come on to boost much later than I did with a bleed valve. Has anyone in SA got a Profec B (series 1) boost controller? (private or business) If I could catch up with you and swap their controller (black unit under the bonnet with 2 vacume lines attached) with mine for 5 minutes and take the car for a spin around the block it would be much appreciated, and help me determine if the fault lies with my unit or the turbo. - (10-15 minute job from start to finish) I'm getting desperate guys, the car drives well but it takes so long to come on to boost that its not funny. (no feeling of power until 4500-5000 rpm.

Just a quick point (sort of on a tangent) but why do they ask us to weld up adjustable coilovers, when on a Valiant with torsion bar suspension you just have to turn one bolt to raise/lower the car. I have never heard of a valiant having to weld its suspension up. I wonder if thos sets up a legal case for discrimination, as later model valiants also have to meet the (most of) same ADR's we do.

I'll drop past, but I might have to bring the other half (if thats OK)

If you ever come down to Adelaide, pay a visit to Des Higgins. (he did my car and has a reputation around Australia for the quality of his work - yes he is that good) I realise that the photos dont show it clearly but I think even at the resolution shown you can see that the metal has not been finished with 40 grit paper. I have rubbed a few cars back myself and the bare metal in the photo has a better finish than when I used 240 grit. After the metal work the car is primed (of course) but there is no putty. I guess its hard to explain unless you have seen his work yourself.

Hi wrxhoon I know that my photos (above) dont/wont/can't show it very clearly, but the finish in the metal work there looks like a just pressed panel. There is no 2 in one spray primer/filler on it at this stage, and no need to apply it to fill the file marks (there were none desernable to the human eye).

Rezz - price is usually a consideration so I understand why most people dont go for a full strip and metal finish. Sorry if I gave you the wrong idea (or got on my high horse) I like to do things the best way possible and only have to do them once (I've been stung too many times in the past when I tried to take the easy way out, and in the long run it always cost me more than dooing it right the first time.) Your car looks sweet, and if your happy with the quality of the job thats all that matters. I guess I was just trying to let people know that there are other ways and things to consider when getting bodywork done on a car.

two.06l - guess you believe any crap they sell you. Lead wiping is still a better way to do the job, people use bog because its quick and cheep not because of the quality of its finish. (Unless you now of some new product that won't shrink, and bonds to metal as strong as metal) Quality companies (where price isnt as much of a consideration) still lead wipe ie Rolls Royce, Daimler etc.