4door_Sleeper

Check out a nissan Dealers price, you might be surprised.

Andrew how can you make a comment like that when you list a CHICK's car (KA Laser) as your ride. Won't your mum let you drive a real car ??? Go the 4 door!

TO ALL, I've also done my bit--- ive sent emails to my local mp, trish white minister for transport, and Mike Rann !!! RIGHT WHO,S NEXT??? Regards, 4door_Sleeper PS - if you dont get off your butt and have your say now, dont complain later when they take your ride away. You can find the email address of your local MP at http://www.parliament.sa.gov.au/members/memberlist.asp

I am very concerned as well. - How hard is it to chirp the rear tyres when you take off at the lights on a wet day - sorry you were hooning. - Music was turned up too loud - sorry you loose your car - Speed up to safely pass another car - sorry you were drag racing. Lets face it, the police basically need proof in the form of a photo, or to show you the radar gun to be booked for speeding or running a red light. If your tyres are worn or your car is otherwise (unsafe) you get sent to regency - who can remove the defect if it wasn’t warranted (i.e. the police need to have proof) and in each of these cases you get a small fine or penalty and maybe a few points off of your licence (which you can contest in a court of law.) But these laws only require a policeman to say they saw XYZ and you could potentially loose your $40,000+ GTR. Where is the burden of proof as is required for every other criminal offence? If all police cars were equipped with video cameras and they could prove your guilt then fine, you’ve been nicked, but without proof this s bullsh1t. Are there any constitutional lawyers out there, because I think there must be a case in this lot.

Man I got 180rwKW out of a standard intercooler, and only had trouble with pinging on hot days when driving it too hard for too long (heat soak), and the boost was set to 13psi, so your figures are way off the mark if you cant tune it without pinging. My guess is that there is another problem with your car.

I'm not sure I understand why you say the intercooler is that high up, I think you can see a seperate cooler inside the grill, not the front mount.

You may also want to take it to a decent dyno shop, I have trouble believing you got detonation at only 0.6 bar, thats like stock boost (pluss a tiny bit). Why even tune it for 0.6bar, I mean add a bleed valve and go for 0.9bar (and you may have problems with detonation on hot days - but not at 0.6) Just a thought - I assume you an exhaust and air pod ????

I learnt everything I need to know about engine tuning from watching the fast and the furious. (I need NOS man, that one there, no make it two, two of those big ones)

This is great guys, I'll be in for a group buy if it will help with cable pricing. (I also have access to trade priced at a few IT and electrical places if it is of use to anyone) PS - I have looked at the software a few times now but I cant find the setting for "WARNING MANIFOLD PRESSURE TOO HIGH" or the "DROP PASSENGERS FLOOR PAN - sparks set to 85%" activation settings.

is this software model specific? ie 33 or 32 gtr or gtst

Did you get wet and a dry compression test results? This may help determine if the problem is in the top or bottom end. Whilst I have never looked at the rings on a skyline, I have seen other cars suddenly develop huge drops in compression when the rings turn on the piston and all of the ring gaps line up (nearly all pressure blows past the rings) but this can come good again as the rings move back around.

Where abouts in Adelaide are you P1E, I've taken mine off a few times and can help you. I tried to draw up a diagram in paint, but it was just too hard. (sorry)

How do you see it effecting the ecu? I agree that it may need tuning depending upon the octane rating, but other than that I cant see how it would have any effect (or am I missing something?)

I thought I'd start a new thread about this type of synthetic petrol, as its different from the other thread that talks about a diesel substitute. This fuel (called synjuice) is meant to be a substitute or blend for normal fuel (super or unleaded) I have an issue of "modern MOTOR (may 1974)" – the height of the fuel crisis - which has a formula for making your own petrol. It consists of a blend of : Toluene (65%) Benzol (25%) – can be replaced with industrial alcohol but this wasn’t tested Naptha (10%) - Heavy naptha, water-white) Mix the ingredients (by volume) stir and poor in the tank through a strainer (you can get sediment from the naptha occasionally) This mix is compatible with existing fuel and can be run on its own or in a blend. This mix was tested on various cars of the day and "they all performed better and gave better economy .. than on either standard or premium octane petrol" - **I would be interested to know the octane rating of this mix, but I guess it must be in the mid nineties** The article went on to say "we tested this petrol substitute in many vehicles without experiencing any trouble or damage to engine or any other vehicle components." but then went on to say "we accept no responsibility for any damage that might occur" (which makes sense to cover their own backs. Has anyone ever come across this before, know anything else about it, or tried it to see if it works.

Sydneykid, I agree with you (and have edited my response to make it more clear) the autos are often under-rated and are the ideal thing for drags and street work. (admittedly not for track work yet, but if they release a 6 speed tiptronic auto, it may be the ideal thing for track work aswell) PS are you still heading to Adelaide some time soon? the offer to try the auto with the PFC still stands. (And I'd love to get a look at your Stagea, its probably our next car to replace the wifes ford wagon)

rs73 it may have been aftermarket auto, or it may have been rebuilt, but show me a manual running those sort of speeds that still uses a factory box (I bet they are also aftermarket or modified gear sets). I think its a given that at those extremes you will have to do serious work to the whole driveline.

I have an issue of "modern MOTOR (may 1974)" – the height of the fuel crisis - which has a formula for making your own petrol. It consists of a blend of : Toluene (65%) Benzol (25%) Naptha (10%) - Heavy naptha, water-white) Mix the ingredients (by volume) stir and poor in the tank through a strainer (you can get sediment from the naptha occasionally) This mix is compatible with existing fuel and can be run on its own or in a blend. This mix was tested on various cars of the day and "they all performed better and gave better economy .. than on either standard or premium octane petrol" - **I would be interested to know the octane rating of this mix, but I guess it must be in the mid nineties** The article went on to say "we tested this petrol substitute in many vehicles without experiencing any trouble or damage to engine or any other vehicle components." but then went on to say "we accept no responsibility for any damage that might occur" (which makes sense to cover their own backs.

How about this for an anti lag device, its called an AUTOMATIC TRANSMISION since I don’t need to take my foot off the accelerator between gear changes, I don’t suffer the lag problems of those lesser MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS. In fact the only time my BOV works is when I decelerate. (OK an auto isn’t much cop for track work, but for most other applications it’s the bomb) But just to add to the comments above: the frictional effect of air moving through the system should be negligible as air moves in a lambda flow if I am not mistaken, and hence reduces friction by moving slower against the edges than it will in the middle (think of a river flowing down a riverbank, the current is strongest in the middle)

I am a fan of the auto, great when you want to cruze, quick off the line, only drawback I can see is if you want a serious track car, then it might be worth going to a manual. I also recall someone on these forums running a 12 second quarter with very little more than 215rwkw. (not too many manual drivers can do this with this level of power) PS - check out the cost/price the others are paying for clutches, I could buy 2 or 3 autos and install them for that sort of money. (autos are dirt cheep at the wreckers if you haggle, as 95% of guys convert to or drive manuals and the wreckers are usually happy to move them out of the shop)

Why get a cat back system? spend a few more dollars and get the turbo back exhaust, you wont regret it.

Another SILVER one - guess I cant put that on the poll though.

congratulations

Would this be a good time to remind readers of that winning edge Peter Perfect got from using a fuel polariser? Sometimes the winning edge is all in the mind, if you think you have an edge then you think you can push the car just a little bit harder. I'm not sure that cryogenically treating engine parts fits into this category, but it somehow seemed worth mentioning

Do you guys need to use any special lubricants as a result of your shotpleened and cryo treated ****s.

I have not seen this problem on a skyline, but I did have a similar problem on another car. It turned out to be a universal joint although initially I couldn’t find any free play when checking it. The cause was obvious when it broke and the tail shaft shook lose and hit the ground (at 80kmph) fortunately it was the rear universal.