Suspense

My rebuilder said i require a GTR crank for GTR rods???

$200 is normal price though and i am budgeting my rebuilt

Machining including head work needing to be done... valves need to be reset... The quote was from MRC

KING HP rigns a belll, not 100% sure, but will double check... Also i was thinking, no need to go for metal head gasket as i wont be pushing that much power, to really need one? Rebuilder told me vernolia pistons are abit thin or sumtin, and doesnt like them? But alot of people seem to be running Arias with no problems, can anyone give me a price on arias 20thou over? Turbo seals went, oil went to the intake in the engine detonated...

$150 including postage??

Well just got a quote for my rebuild (RB25DET), was wondering if you could all look through it and give me ideas on what is priced good what not. and altertnatives? ACL Mahl Forged Pistons with rings(20thou). $1400 Tomie metal Headgasket................................$550 Nissan Gaskets..............................................$200 Bearing Set (Tri-Metal)....................................$300 Welsh Plugs....................................................$80 Machining, close & hone, shot peen ..............$2000 Rod Bolts........................................................$280 Head Bolts......................................................$200 Labour charge 28 hours........... $2150 Totalling... $7290 Also i am only planning on getting 250rwkw out of the motor... so the stock rods should be up to the task? Is this about right? anything i should change? any ideas where i can get parts for cheaper from... ? Thanx in advance

I 2nd that!!! I ended up cutting my fuel lines of the filter, it was that tight around the filter... I huffed n puffed, just wouldnt come off.

Fu(k Me!!!

the car is actually pretty driveable.... not much stuttering etc etc.... Maybe i should get a 2nd compression test from sumwhere else to make sure?? It still managed 198rwkw on the dyno

Thanx.. i will probably end up asking you quite a few questions then... just waiting for him to give me a parts list, and have proper talk about the rebuild next week.... MRC is located Unit 26/44 Carrington RD, Castle Hill Tell him Dpak sent ya

Hey in the process of getting my RB25DET rebuild plans together, and was wondering what your thoughts on putting the N1 water and Oil pumps on? IT will be a street car, rarely sit at countinious high rpm. And i am lookin at getting 240-250rwkw out of it? SO should i go for N1? or is standard R33 gear up to the task? Thanx

Well just so you guys now MRC is a top place.. Mark is a TOP bloke!!! took my car there the other day.... Rebuild time for me Still managed to get 198rwkw with Cylinder 1 - 125PSI & 20% leakage Cylinder 2 - 130PSI & 10% leakage Cylinder 3 - 130PSI & 80% leakage (exhaust valves) Cylinder 4 - 120PSI & 30% leakage Cylinder 5 - 60PSI & 80% leakage(crank case) Cylinder 5 - 125PSI & 20% leakage and the turbo seals blown as well he fixed up a few things with my car as well, without me asking... and has been very helpfull with helping me with some rebuild plans.... P.S if anyon efeels the urge to donate some $$$ for my rebuild, PM me

any one got Rigoli'z number?

RB25DET.... I know wat you mean... I am looking at around the $5000-$6000.... Only wishing to push the car to 240rwkw.... So stock internals should be up to the job? however for $500 more i can get forgies.... but im not sure.... just need help :headspin:

details plS??

Hey can i get some place of good places to get my engine rebuilt.... got a comp. test today.. and it aint looking good... So gotta start looking at the rebuild... Currently i am getting few things together with MRC in castle hill.... But would like to check up with some other places too..... Thanx

Just disconnect the Battery terminals, slap ur foot on the brakes a few times turn ur headlights on off... and connect ur battery again

got my car back 2day from compression n leak test Cylinder 1 - 125PSI & 20% leakage Cylinder 2 - 130PSI & 10% leakage Cylinder 3 - 130PSI & 80% leakage (exhaust valves) Cylinder 4 - 120PSI & 30% leakage Cylinder 5 - 60PSI & 80% leakage(crank case) Cylinder 5 - 125PSI & 20% leakage and turbo seals are blow, which is probably root cause of failure.... SO now i dunno.... gonna sit down with mechanix 2morrow wat price am i looking at on a RB25DET rebuilt aiming for 300kw? Pistons Rods Bolts ORIGINAL CRANK WILL BE USED.... Valves need to be fixed up Bearings Honing water pump IS there anyhting else? Can sum1 PLEASE fill in the prices so i will be a little settled 2morrow

Only when the pedal is in motion it squeaks

what does it do how does it work?

SORTED... Thanx guy.. found the screw but wont be using is GET MY CAR DYNOED 2morrow too woohooooo

Fair enough GTST.... thanx for that... BUT i am assumin it is better to have my BOV set as it currently is? as it doesnt filter the air throuhg the turbo, IC, n airfilter?

LOL.. yeha i know d flutter isnt good.... And i dont think there really is a way to adjust the tension... All it is, is a valve with a spring pusshing the valve against a plate onto the plenum... Unless by rotating the BOV housing as so it begins to screw off the bracket it attatched onto???? Is this how you adjust it? PS.. I am happy without the flutter sound... was becoming a little too much.... so will keeping the BOV how it is now harmfull in anyway? i'm guessing not! Perhaps i put it back together wrong it all flew all over the place when i took it off.. wasnt expecting that much bounce in it lol... i still get a nice CRISP tishh sound.. and i mean very crisp now

rb25det BOV is plumback and atmo vent GFB one

I cleaned my BOV yesterday... took it all apart washed out all the oil residue, and put her back together again.... and now i have lost the flutter sound however i noticed that my lag when changing gears has significantly reduced... IS THIS NORMAL? Or did i forget something when i put it back together? anyways, im happy with the performance increase