(B1) MR_fanny

can you describe the noise in more detail...high pitch grinding noise...metal on metal? from both sides or just one? does it happen only on light braking pressure? sounds brake/rotor related. tried jacking the rear up spining the wheels and getting someone to apply hand brake/brake? just a thought.

thats true but usually if theyre going to that much trouble your gonna get done for something technical even if its something really minor like babyseat anchors and turbotimers, etc. I guess your just minimising your risks. In my experience of getting pulled over, they never once checked the widths only tread..touch wood..ha

good old bruised kidneys...lol maybe the next challenge is to perfect the art of driving it back on the ramp and easing it down on that? so when are we gonna see all the flashing christmass lights?

well i have a gtr tyre placard thingy on my gtst so i guess my restrictions based on taht. id be well surprised to see an officer pull the measuring tape out for tyre widths.

maybe just a tad too thin? i have nothing to back that up lol

id like to know the cause of this too. i have had a similar sound that occured 3 times only earlier in the year on and off only on super hot days (bahamas..lol) and only after i did an advance driver course with heaps of spinning around. sounded like a deisel motor but would go away if i let it sit and cool for 20min or so. hasnt done it since. will have to see when it starts to heat up again.

well if your driving it like a granny avcr setting shouldtn matter either..lol get the tune.

by your mech does that mean you?..lol.

187? damn bush and his war! I p/t once or twice a week though its not the sandy line so i cant comment but on average its been pretty good but dont be surprised if there is a delay. if you need to be punctual then i suggest to get the earlier train to what you had planned.

+1 yes you will be wasting your money if your car is stock. better spent on an exhaust, intake mod or a bleeder or swaybars or even get a thorough service. I can think of numerous other things to spend it on than a tune/remap. also 33 ecu's arent generally remapped for some tech reason, though i have heard of a guy in syd that used to do it by replacing chips but he would tune to what mods you have and in your case you have none so again its a waste of money. always do your research, this site is good for it and dont always believe what everyone says..ha.

from memory its the hose from the stock IC pipe to the bleed to the actuator? theres a third hose that gets blocked off. maybe someone can clarify. obvious question but you are adjusting the bleed valve correctly yes no?

i think your missing reading his post. they engineer cars and usually everything complex for that matter to be idiot proof or retarded as you may call it to some degree in the event that someone may be stupid enough to do what you just said.

mm...mud wrestling....or is that milo?

i always though they were the same thing for 33's. it just differentiates a turbo from non turbo? the title probably appeared when the s2's came in? i dunno.

i used the 300zx one...cant remember the code. its bigger than standard one, who knows if it performs any better.

+1

yeah as much as you would like your mech to know everything, cant go wrong with a specialist.

find out where its leaking first. putting a stop leak is just masking the problem. fix it properly mine was leaking at the hose on the reservoir, it was just a simple tight up and top up. cant remember what fluid exactly, dotsomething but a quick search should answer that question.

handling is great on nice roads, but you'll think twice when your on crappy roads. The trade off is worth it compared to the stock shocks but if i had the choice again i would have either gotten new ones with EDFC, or the hks ones with lower spring rates, or the sydney kids bilstein group buy which are correctly set for aussie roads. used jap coilovers are hit and miss so make sure you get them tested. Like i said you do get used to the stiffness, just depends on your comfort threshold and how you like to drive. It doesnt bother me anymore and you just adapt your driving to suit like knowing which lanes to drive in and avoiding bumps and holes. Dont forget swaybars...they make a world of difference.

ive got HA's and they are very stiff. expect to have a sore neck the first week or so of driving as your body adjust to all the jarring and bouncing, i did. got physically tired after say 20mins of driving but you get used to it. my opinion on damper setting is to not set it at super soft but 4-5 clicks from soft to get some out of the dampers if anything at all..lol guess you'll have to play with it. anyone knwo how to adjust the fronts as mine are missing the knobs.

i was onto it for a while on the ds light....then lost interest.

what are the benefits of blocking it off may i ask as apposed to say keeping it?

i guess if youve already got an induction kit then you wont feel that much difference. on paper maybe. you've bought it so just stick it in and find out.

87clicks...thats very low....id def check conditions of both to check if they correspond to the k's

he must have been really peekin'