(B1) MR_fanny

i was thinking of the same thing for a while. then common sense hit in and i bought a hi flow. $360 vs $9k. i think it speaks for itself. from what ive been told u just crack it open at the welt joints gut it and weld it back up. if you can get a straight through pipe and then weld a 3" cat cover over it you will get more out of it.

i like the overall look of it. its a different angel that theyre taking thats for sure.

i just go to suby dealership and buy the can for 15-20bucks and do it myself. they charge you through the ass for something so simple.

i used a long hollow alluminium pipe over the spanner/wrench as leverage. makes it a little bit easier. gonna have to get under the car to remove the those last 2 nuts though. the heat shield is pretty straight forward, just undo all the bolts.

true that but the prices vary so much from 100ish for NSK ones to 200ish for genuine ones. if they are of identical quality it would be nice to save some $$. a few people here are using NSK ones with no probs, i guess because they havent clocked the k's on em yet to find out. ah what a head scratch!!

what was the price from RBC? im also in the process of hunting parts

its like the double dragon from starsky and hutch. gold

why is it better than the other if its just a stockie? what part number does this get you then 13028-20P10? thanks

what belt is that originally for crofte?? interested.

do the lessons...ull learn alot plus they show u how to do it too.

haha.....thats gold!!

did u change any seals of any kind?

gday guys and gals, currently doing the runs and gathering all the parts for my 100k service. Heres the list that i have come up with so far, just missing some part numbers for the others. if anyone can fill these in that would be great. Tried the search and stickies but didnt find any answers to my questions. Tensioner NSK 60TB0683 EA7L 806 Idler NSK 56TB2801B01 ENSL 309 N1 oil pump 15010-24U00 Norm water pump 21010-21u25 or N1 water pump 21010-24U27 Ancillary belts ?? Gates Racing timin belt T1040R?? how much and where from?? Seals and stuff ?? Just want to know if there are any seals and the like that need replacing? Part numbers please? Is it necessary to replace the oil pump too or can that be done later when needed? Is the N1 water pump overkill for a street car that sees the track once a while? Issuses with cavitation under normal street driving. How does everyone rate the Gates Racing timing belts compared to those jap aftermarket ones? Just as long as theyer tougher than the original ones, dont really care what brand it is. thanks for putting up with another 100k thread.

i was still able to use my existing gasket. heres my thread talking about my dump+cat. its a must buy in my opinion. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=128943

few...when i heard $800 plus i was having second thoughts

post a pic up with ur solution when u get around to it could you. cheers.

yeah i had my heat wrap from the old pipe ready to go but the exhasut guy said itll kill the pipe making rust and crack. but looking at my old pipe it was rusting on the horizontal parts where i assume the water builds up during condensation. the end connecting to the dump was fine so im thinking maybe just heatwrap the top end of the dump and wastegate pipe.

anyone got a ball park figure for whacking in subframe bushes? mine are still sittin here next to me..lol

thanks guys.. ill check it in a week to re tighten em up. car drives silky smooth now throughout the rev range. its fantastic!!. does anyone think the direct contact with waistgate pipe and the air con pipe will cause any long term problems?? i was thinking of modifiy the aircon pipe mount to move it over a tad.

gday guys and gals installed a batmbl dump pipe + hi flow turbo. great products!! got it installed yesterday but they left the heat shield off because i assumed they couldnt bolt it back on due to the tight fit. modified the heat shield today with the good old angle grinder to make it fit using just one exhaust bolt thats easily accesible. durring the process took the other 2 bolts out to test fit. now i can hear the turbo spool very early, below 2k even before induction noise starts. is this normal or do i have an exhaust leak? bolts not tight enough?? they are pretty tight but i dont want to over tighten them incase i snap them which ive been doing lately...lol

just grease ur crotch up everytime u drive. that'll get rid of the static build up. worked for me!

i guess i got ripped pretty badly then. ah well. the heat shield can be put back on right? cause they didnt put it back on for me. also is anyones pipe touching what i assume to be the heater pipe going into the cabbin?

quick question. whats everyone paying to get it installed + cat? i went to a place that works with both turbo'd and hotrods that quoted $100-150ish for a job done properly and not rushed. then i went to a garage that works with imports that quoted $60. for some reason i trust the expensive place more. anyone still using their existing gasket or are you guys replacing it??

do u have the passengers and drivers plastic seat belt guides. the things that hold the seatbelts near ur head and snap up and down. $30 + postage?

flow rates. check the first page for specs.