R33S2

Some ppl like to wire them in direct, it ensures pressure all the time. A search will help on how to do it and reverse it back to normal.

Its plumbed into the pipe from the air filter to the turbo intake, so it is greatly varied on each side of the bov, intake = suction, plenum =pressure.

Before I changed to a Turbosmart BOV I was running 16psi on the standard one, afterwards I was running 17-8 and could boost well above that, which I really couldnt on the standard one, it just bled out.

I also have a Turbosmart manual boost controller, replaces the standard controller and is very simple to install. $50.00

Full set, been on the car since 2004 and sit the guard about 10-15mm off the tyre, as in the pic. They are purpose built RSR brand and fit standard style shocks. $200 from logan. Also adjustale castor bushes for the R33 style castor arm, used condition still work fine. $100 PM OR EMAIL

Yeah fill me in please Waz

The only time Ive been instructed to tig purge weld is when i work on food grade equipment, I've welded pipes on ships that require Lloyds inspection and approval and didnt need a purge for any of them, I was also taught 2 ways to weld pipe for a 1st class weld, for purge lots of penatration with the torch at 70-80 deg to the weld, for no purge hold the torch around 10-20 pointing back so the blob also forms inside and is bathed by the argon, if done correctly (professionally) it will be as strong and long lasting as a purge. At work I use 1.5mm stainless rods (yes they exist) to weld thin stuff, I prefer them to TIG as its quicker and gives just a good as finish, but for exhaust systems I think mig would be the most cost effective for a shop and just as good as tig/stick for what they are doing, I cant see steel wire being all that good from a rust point of view but it works ok with stainless, for a good finsh you cant beat TIG though.

so long as the drivetrain keeps up it doesnt matter, it could help if it was one colour.

Well it sure as hell felt like it kicked it back, which doesnt exist anymore. Just my opinion tho. Is there a correct way to disconnect it? If I had known that I would of just made up some washers.

I did a fair bit of reseach on this, as I was having trouble with the Hicas shuting down on wet days, the power steering would die along with it, all attempts to fix it were only temporary, so it had to go. From what I read at the time (06) the lockbars on a 33 would cause the pwr str to either die out because the hicas was disconnected or be restricted (it was never clear to me which) and also nobody had any to sell me, so i bought the Tomei kit which locks the hicas physically and reroutes the hicas with another unit, pwr str works fine and no interference from a computer when the hairy stuff happens. If you have ever dropped a long side skid with hicas, it will kick the car back the opposite way ie you cant drift.

If you are after a good procduct to release rust, at JHardies we use Reducteur H-72 it works in a short time but is useless as a CRC type of spray, I typically use H-72 then CRC when I've broken the rust's hold. Its distributed by blackwoods and these guys Jones & Park (Aust) Pty LtdManufacturers Representatives Unit 2/ 96 -98 Jedda Rd Prestons 2170(02) 9607 7111Fax(02) 9607 5111 sales@jonesandpark.com.au

Check your door light switch, it may have been stuffed, then shat itself just recently causing the short.

The dash lights could have an earthing problem if they are all dim, I had a few issues with the parkers that was an earthing problem. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...Gt-t164288.html That thread for shimming the diff explains it well. Microtechs have a problem with cold running and aircon, I have decided mine sucks but I solved the low idle by using the adjustable part of the throttle cable to raise it, when I set it back after being told to, the lt12 or the ecu adjusted for it and now it idles high but doesnt stall at least. Check the thread for idle problems there are a few items that effect it.

It shouldnt effect it, I would say the shorter the better but I have seen them mounted in the glove box with no problems.

Its hard to say without looking at it, but you wont need to replace the head, just retapping the thread will fix it, the worst that can happen is it may need a helicoil but i doubt it if you stopped when it got too tight.

I have found that it reads different depending on the oil level, if I have over filled it a bit, it reads higher than normal until hot, if its a bit under it reads just a bit lower, when hot as well. it reads alot higher for the same amount of less does.

This might help for awhile.

The ECU is saving your motor by flooding it, an AVCR will get you running but a AM ECU would be best.

I have noticed this in alot of cars when the temp is left at the same position for ages.

either the motor drive to shut the valve is stuffed or the valve is stuck, With mine I turned the temp up & down for about a week when it did the same, works fine now and I do it every now and then just to keep it loose.

There is a Qld section of this forum. What is your plug gap and boost?

He met up with me on a sunday, my only day off, to heip with a gremlin. Your right he is a top bloke.

A power flush is the best way to get it all out.

Mine is still a little hard to get into 5th when booting it, but nice otherwise. How much did you put in it?

I had the same problem when doing mine, I bent the pipe a bit with a bar with the same ID and braced it against the engine bits with a block of wood, so it lined up better (wrong angle but inline) and used the normal rubber pipe with clamps. I have some more of that clear pipe as well.