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R33S2

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Everything posted by R33S2

  1. I know Dan at Elite Racing has a very good one. PM 3lit3 32
  2. Its quite common to backfire after heavy acceleration, it is unburnt fuel igniting in the exhaust, it means that your running rich on boost which is what you want Most probably, was it doing it before? Doesnt hurt anything.
  3. Your next question is "do I need a split dump pipe" like this http://www.justjap.com/parts/new/exhaust/jjrrbdump.jpg , I did a bit of research on this when it came time for my system, it is proven that a split dump will improve turbo flow, but on the RB25 the flow is pretty good anyway, compared to a WRX etc. My split dump, on the standard turbo, was a restriction above 16psi as it had a 2 1/2" on the big one and not 3" where they merged. The 2871 had a frog mouth front/dump with it so it went in. Just to be clear on the exhaust order it goes Turbo- dumppipe- frontpipe- cat OR aftermarket Turbo- dump/frontpipe- cat
  4. Autobarn
  5. Your charcol canister is missing, the vacuum lines should be blocked off that used to run to it, yes your idle would improve with it blocked off. If any of the lines (there are 3 on the canister) suck air when running block them off, one of the lines vent gas from the fuel tank so check where it is venting to ie not near turbo lol
  6. Have you tried this?
  7. Yeah its just the temper colours coming out with thier heat ranges.
  8. That goes to my BOV and charcol can on mine. From the look of it, it has broken off at some stage and the rough end put on, which is fine but the 12yr old hose could be farked as well, which is why it broke in the first place. If you bend the hose sharply does it show fine cracks? If not cut it off that damaged bit neatly and push on i use tiny zipties to be sure it stays.
  9. Just put a tee piece in the vac line going to the boost controler or the charcol canister, cheap as chips, I use a small ziptie to be sure it stays.
  10. Popcorn anyone (offers around Jumbo sized)
  11. It seems that both of them assumed something without the right details.
  12. Im sorry but what motor is it RB20, RB25 or RB26? and what ECU is it? I ask because it sounds like one of those AFMs worked, one was right for start up but too rich for normal running and the other the opposite, if the second one ran properly it may be the start up componants maybe faulty, check the ACC valve etc (I say etc because there are others that I cant remember ATM)
  13. Sounds like the ignitor to me or its harness.
  14. If you want to organise a cruise for the Goldcoasters do it in here (Events section) ask the Sunnycoast guys how many threads were closed because of this, kinda sux I know but its their forum we plebes just follow the bannings ! I get down there once in awhile so I could show up on one. PS John or& Zaffa Take this thread to some good places.
  15. R33S2

    Gtr R35

    sux2bu
  16. R33S2

    Gtr R35

    Tomorra
  17. Yes you might as well remove the whole hydraulic system and save some weight. I used the Tomei kit that blinds the hicas, which affects pwr steering.
  18. Black oil is usual, change at 5000km's yeah? The head is the most likely spot but I cant see how water is not in your oil as well.
  19. Thats like that joke with the Stop and Slow down at a stop sign. Heard it yet?
  20. Did you put the shims back in?
  21. Marki and Col GET OVER IT! Marki you can be a cunnyfunt sometimes but all this whingin about Col wont get you anywhere, ITS OLD NEWS Col try to be a little bit les Colish will ya?
  22. Talking bodywork they showed the Ute in New York with different front panels and front, Yanks love their Glitz I wonder if anyone here would be game to put it on theirs.
  23. Do you mean clunk? I'd retighten everything to be sure.
  24. Sounds electrical to me, 1. the switch that cuts out charging on the alternator could be stuffed. 2. bad earthing somewhere (which i had a problem with) 3. loose connection (a bastard to find when intermitant) 4. coilpacks ignitor is dying try swapping it to see if that stops it The best you can do is check your earthing points and all the connection plugs are tight and not corroded inside. otherwise an autoelec might be the go, I may be wrong though and it could be something else entirely.
  25. Been to the Gold coast lately?
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