R33S2

It all depends on how the holes line up with the new set up, if you can use at least one of the holes on each side, in the new crossmember it wold be alot easier and from an engineering point of veiw, stronger. PM me if you have no luck.

where are you located?

I will take the balancer, Crankshaft sprocket spacers & idler washers (flat & wave), 1 fuel filter and the Throttle Body (if it fits a GReedy Plenum)

Firstly the Brembos are front calipers only so I wanted to keep my standard rears. I also have a GTR master cylinder too. I know they will bolt straight up with a small amount of modification, but the master on my GTST has a line coming out from under it and there is not one on the GTR master. So what i have found byway of searching this forum from GTR Goeff (thanks mate) is that the brake bias would be wrong using this setup, meaning that the rears would lock up before the front had a good chance to work properly. I know he mentioned that on a ABS equiped car this would be not a problem but I dont have it. Is there a way to set the bias, should I get the rears as well OR just keep my normal setup (RDA slotted discs, good fluid and lines)

bump

where are you located?

im interested in the manifold if your keen.

PM me i will get an email from here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Te...ks-t124932.html

Its to do with how much fuel the ecu gives the motor, this is effected by how much air it has to mix it with and what timing as well, if you have a small (stock) turbo the standard ecu is set to give fuel steadily untill boost comes on, then it loads up more fuel because of the extra air being pumped in, it is set at certain points in the map and corrected by the air flow meter. With a bigger turbo the whole map is different because boost comes on at a completely different point. You have 2 choices really, get a stock turbo or a ecu and tune.

pics of manifold?

are you coming back? I have some parts in Bendigo that I want.

not really, apart from a new rattling noise, it wont harm much, the pump has a filter sock to stop blockages.

These are for a series 1, so wont fit my series 2 33.

it wont stop the pump, it just registers pressure.

378 hp? you must be running an aftermarket computer. I know that with my microtech i could use the GM LS1 coils and thier loom. How? I didnt find out but its possible. Have search in tutorials or in forced induction.

ah well maybe the old BOV was leaking pressure, my standard one did but it was only 3psi.

I was a bit light on details back then but it was a standard motor and turbo @16 psi making 295hp. Now I have a GT2835-56T turbo with a bell mouth dump and 550cc injectors. I made 360 rwhp (270kw) @17 psi. Still is a standard motor and been running like this since sep 07.

Im guessing a spring loaded flap that is forced open by the SC and closes when it is deactivated.

the GTR has 2 turbos so no. A highflow would suit yours needs performance and price wise.

I know that the time attack series have to have a rear exit to compete, but a side pipe would probably be better for performance.

The divider on my split dump didnt seal and I was making good power, so I cant see a major problem with it.

What he means is the actuator working? It sounds like it isnt because your boosting continually and that seems to be the actuator not responding to whatever limit the boost controller is set to. Connecting the BOV doesnt effect your boost level, your boost controller does that and if you have not connected it you will just continually boost. EDIT I just read your last post.... you havent connected the boost controller, it is next to the pwr steering res.

It just proves you love your mum more than your car, and thats a good thing. Im not sure your car does tho.

Yes you can do that but just remember that the second time they catch you your car is impounded for 48hrs(?) and the 3 rd it is confiscated.