R33S2

Heat wrap adds another stage in the heat transfer process by creating a layer through which the engergy must pass, ceramic coating is attached to the first stage molecularly and as such must repel the heat by its own physical properties.

A good comparison in yen would be a model sold here, price to price in japan.

Back when Porsche first developed the current shape they announced that this was the best design model for drag co-efficency and I recall thinking ATT "one day most sports cars will have to have this shape to at least compete" and if you look at alot of the faster cars they do follow that design concept, sure they differ because they have to and if I had to say "the new GTR looks like" (just from that one pic) it would be the Vanquish.

At the GC Autosalon the red R33 had a coarse cloth like wrap on the exhaust, when I asked him about it he said it is a shelf product that you soak in water, then wrap it up, any idea what the sticky stuff is? I know the cloth is what I call a heat blanket. Thanks

I discussed the oil supply question with an engineer, he recommended a small reseviour that is pressurised from oil pump and naturally drains to turbo, I really don't like the idea much but he swears by it.

Bubbles in the radiator are a bad sign.

you have wire that is live earthing somewhere, how can they all come on if the fuse is blown? beats me.

I had thinners wiped over mine, totaly smeared the finnish!!!! I used Gumption with a coarse plastic scourer, then brasso on a coarse cloth and then Plastex to finnish, you can still see the deeper lines in the right light but it's kinda hard, they look good now, but I would of sanded them if I had to do it again, it would of been the same amount of work and a flatter finnish.

Fireworks are for food and wine fest at hyperdome

I remember a while ago that the SL 500 came out with wheels that had a larger outside dia to the inside thus giving it natural camber, were they useful at all? Just wondering thanks.

Chat to Dan 3lit3 32 on here, he will probery help you out, either that or autobarn do installs.

New battery $120 from autobarn, damn microtech wont do anything without exactly 12v, priceless

I was hoping battery world was open about to give them ring, thanks anyway [cheers]

Mine lasted 2yrs [rant] how old is it?

What time do they open?

That is beauty of having an ECU running the car, the tune doesnt alter, spark plugs, filters and oil are the maintenance items that affect your tune, if they are changed on a regular basis its all good.

Does anyone know of a battery shop open on sunday in the Logan area?

I like it, it has the right lines for a classic of the modern era,

I hope this is not your problem but I had a car that did this same thing, turned out to be a hairline crack in a inlet valve housing to water jacket, it only did it when the motor was working, ie if I stopped for awhile it would be ok untill engine reached a certain level (temp didnt move much) it eventually opened enough to fill a cylinder, that shot into the air when I cranked it over lol (no plug motor wouldnt turn over). Its strange but I just posted that the other day on a topic about non reving motor (cue in twilight zone music)

With the door open, grab it and try to move it up and down, if it moves its the hinges or thier mounts, if not it could be the latch in the body or the door is out of true, the screws holding them in have adjustment in them for movement for proper alignment, look carefully at the good latch (passenger door) and try to identify the wear marks/positioning to each other and try to do the same for the other latch (drivers door) one part moves up and down and the other sideways if I remember rightly. From what you have said it seems to be the body part of the latch that is too low and doesnt fully support the weight of the door or could be the door part is too high, just to cover everthing Hahahaha.

I happen to have these shocks as well, compared to a standard shock they have a heavier shaft size and are alot stiffer, chosen for streetable stiffness that doesnt rattle your kindeys too much by an experienced friend. By the sound of the name only, I had the idea they may be tuned for quarter times, overall Im more than happy with them and @ 13.7 they performand well enough but they were the last thing I was concentrating on ATT. Are your springs lower than standard? Mine are but had no indication of maker on them either but were coloured a similar green to the shocks.

Sunday arvo is good for me, might see you on the road bunta/impact blue if not see you there.

How hot is hot, does the coolant look dark or need refilling?

On my RB25 I have rich band from 1200 to 3000 rpm, when the air intake temp is below 5*, if I keep it above 3000 it's fine and it still idles well, only when the engine temp is below 60* that is, if I feather the throttle enough I can get to run smooth. It will burble upto 3g and clear, although I hate staying in that rev range with a cold motor its not for long as my tuner (Peter Woodward) tuned the microtech for cold start, but the temps were above these and so is doing a remap next thursday, I will let you know the result friday. Does this sound similar to your problem or completely different? It seems to me that it is an inherent problem with these rb motors even without the ecu.

Berzerkr32 I happen to want to hear this information, not everyone on here has a $17,000 car, some are track cars put together on a shoe string, with high damage risk and they would rather replace a piece of 50c pvc than a $300 bling bit, your comments are valid but not for all of us.