R33S2

This is why the standard dump is cast as well.

I hope this is not your problem but I had a car that did this same thing, turned out to be a hairline crack in a inlet valve housing to water jacket, it only did it when the motor was working, ie if I stopped for awhile it would be ok untill engine reached a certain level (temp didnt move much) it eventually opened enough to fill a cylinder, that shot into the air when I cranked it over lol (no plug motor wouldnt turn over).

They fit straight up good choice too.

when I was at wilowbank last there was a kart there that did a 10.3 pass, sounds like what your talking about but I dint get to have a close look. Damn it!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=104405&hl= Have a read through this thread it should help you out.

If your running above 12 psi that 0.8 gap is good, below that a 1.1 gap is normal have a look here for more info. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ic=104405&st=20

Well if it doesnt have everything, tell us whats missing so someone can do a write up on it.

I looked at doing this when I moved back here, I had 3 motorbikes and after enquiring about it, the only way I could to it, without paying Huge import duties was break them into parts, they valued them on aussie prices and taxed on that no matter how much I paid for them.

Well seeing as I am in palm beach ATM I will have to bail sorry dude

Just for the R32 owners. I dont know if this will fit a 32 or what a 32 one looks likes. if you have one on a 32 give me look. On a side note, one of my workmates told me about repairs he did to fords, he had to weld the master mount back together on quite a few and this mod was added.

Just read your thread (again) and its sounds abit depresing, DAMN that 91ron shite, any progress?

Its the driver HaHa! I'll come along too.

Here is another one I made (the right way this time) I changed from 8mm bolt to a 10 and put it in the flat instead. If you live in SEQld and want one PM me $15, I will discount for club members $10, supply will depend on work loads and demand. I still cant find the cup and looks to be a bit pricey so they wont have them, I wanted to make them out of stainless but my new job doesnt have the materials or equipment and its more a bling thing anyway. someonestolecc You can do it!

Thanks to Paulr33's advice I've been watching the AF 's on the micotech, I assume these are what the ecu is doing, not the actual ratios, at 78ks in 5th 14-15, in 4th 11 flat, this all depends on load as both rise on a hill but in 5th its much more up to 17, while in 4th not much at all. At 58ks in 3rd/4th its the same. I now drive a bit different to before, where I hardly went above 3000rpm, as thats when boost starts, but now I understand that to acheive boost the ecu loads on fuel just as I was backing off and wasting that. Have I understood this correctly? What I try to do now is keep the AF's in the 11 zone and to do this I take it that bit futher than before.

Welcome to our addictions, have you got any mods planned? And on a side note, good to meet an actual skyline owner.

Not for the GC one but plans are underway for the brisbane one, become a member and find out for yourself.

Is it a good idea to run this "lifta free" without having any lifter problems?

Umm your on it, look in the tutorials?

I need a R32 one to copy

I made my first prototype today, had a drawing and cut up the steel then lost the drawing, I assembled and welded it from memory, only to find it was opposite hand, lol, I now have an example of what not to do hehe, and can get them painted in acid etch black, I still have to find a cup for the end, its something to do in those slow times.

Any of those 3 are good for me.

Daily now its winter, the vstar is my weekender now. Yeah way too much time on your hands! LOL

I'll keep an eye out for him dan, do you want aggresive questioning or should I just hold em till u get there? LOL

Yeah just follow the instructions on the can, a pressure washer works best, but just try not to spray it directly into electrical connections, I always run the motor when I spray it off and keep it away from turbo which I clean first. when your finished spray the whole thing with silicon spray (repco have it cheap) looks like new. You may have to do it twice if its really dirty/greasy, leave it on a bit longer and a warm motor helps too.

In other words you want a NA car with the option of turbocharged to be dialed in on request. I had an idea using a BOV to do this but it never took off past thinking really.