R33S2

Breaking down over 5000rpm is pinging? could be the plugs, coilpacks or timing. NGK bcp5es are a hotter plug than the norm. What boost are running? What are the plugs gapped to?

I use the one in the springwood shopping centre I think they charge 20 for a wash and 30 for interior, alot better than I can do on the outside without spending hours on it. I had company come round and buff it once, 50 for wash and buff. I got the number off car lovers.

Thats interesting I thought that as the MAF saw more pressure it increased fuel etc to accomdate, the boost gauge on the microtesh dash unit shows boost at 3000 and assumed it would be compensating. I recently had a problem with ignition and havent checked usage, but I was getting 10km/l and it was down to 8 before I fixed it. I specified an economic tune as it was daily driver. Thanks for your replies Paul but the question was Is it possible? but youv'e cleared the practicle side. QUOTE(R33S2 @ 10 Jan 2006, 08:04 PM) Hey Dan I was talking to you about turbos and fuel consumption last thursday and how my car sits on boost at 100+ km/hr and never got to ask if there is a compatiable turbo that wouldn't see boost till 3500rpm or so, I haven't got a clue if this is a good idea or not but am interested to hear your opinion. Well , funny thing is my highway mileage is friggin awesome. I get around 750k's to a tank on the highway....but only 350-400 around town. I can drive along in 4th gear at 100 and still not be on boost lol.

The reason my car uses heaps of fuel is because of lowish gearing, at 100km/h it sits at 3000rpm and is boosting at that level, its good to have that sort of power on tap but I dont need it really for normal driving. I've been pondering this dilema for some time now. I could get a bigger turbo that has more lag and people with these say if they drive sensible they can get good milage, but no bottom end and large outlay. Now if I could stop boost (run NA using standard BOV) to 3500 I could have the best of both. To do this I would need a soleniod that cuts in/out at 3500 (or 3200 etc) for when I'm doing a long trip. The BOV would also have to work normally and is pos if I have another solenoid that activates the first. I'm using the MAF based Microtech so I hope its possible.

2076.6mm circumference is 48.15 rotations for a km 2054.9mm circumference is 48.66 rotations for a km If your speedo reads 100km traveled on the 2076.6 (old)wheels, they turned 4815 times to reach 100ks, if we multiply 4815 by the new Dia wheel the result is 98.94ks of actual travel (your speedo will read 100km) So it seems to me that you would reach 100km/h faster than before. (I hope I got that right! I deserve a flamin if not, its doing my head in) It could be that the intercooler has created a bit of lag (lower power) which is common and unavoidable esp since its in the car now, the turbo now has a greater area to compress and it takes a bit longer to do it than before.

omrae The locknut doesnt fit in there, no room. REdgtst The holes were allready there with nuts/thread in them as standard on mine. Wink Yeah but I can always point to and say have you got one of these? HaHa!

My cousin refuses to take the shortcuts because she is sure she will get lost (even though I've shown her) so go the Hwy if unsure, take the centenary way as its simple, I bypass Ballina but its not simple, and at night I go through Ballina anyway.

Bored? Who me? damn this weather. Any way here are the maps for short cuts Tucabia It's a country road and mostly good surface, capable of 100 ks in most places but does get a bit twisty in Pillar Valley part, a nice drive if your not in a hurry. From north theres a servo off the left side of the Pac Hwy and the turn is past that, Tucabia (two cabe i a) is small and just remember to turn left at main road. From south its the Airport turn off. Ballina Bypass A good road, gets twisty and bumpy esp those bridges in the south (and one way) but worth the effort for the traveller as Ballina Sucks poo. The turns offs nth&sth pac hwy are hard to find, as there is nothing there but the Nthn one has/d a Teven sign and once though there, after the big down hill run, turn left after the bridge and follow the creek, cross both bridges and your sweet. From the sth its pretty hard to pin point, but if I remember rightly its the second turn after Gwyder Hwy. I've been advised not to go the Cumbalum route (steep hills) and never tried it, has anyone on here?

I've seen them attached to the spring mount as well, I imagine that they would be for a track car more so than a streeter, plus the threads may not be long enough with the cusco bar there but it would make good template for it.

Got to agree with you there. So what is a safe rwkw for the sr20?

uh umm I do mean Cresent Head but all three are good spots. The Ballina short cut is very difficult to explain indeed (those bridges wow), but worth it to avoid all those round abouts! but you miss Maccas and the Big Prawn that way LOL. And did you know that there is a short cut just past Mclean to Corrindi, cuts about 25kms. And the cops, dont worry about their attitude, just go to a quiet place in your mind untill it is all over. I think they drink too much coffee, or something.

check the group buy section

Finally got one, I didnt really think it would make much difference, but coming down hill braking, the pedal stayed were I started, there was none of that bit of fade when stopping, feels normal really and mighty glad I did it. I took a fully detailed drawimg of it before I installed it, but after starting a new job, I cant really fabricate any yet, but if some one wants them or can plot into autocad give me a PM. I would redesign it so the nut is in front of the plate.

So looking at the SK pic, in standard trim, the subframe floats up and down on those mount points, and the pinapples fill a that gap. If you get Aluminum ones, sound is tramitted through the frame. For all round performance use the bottom ones (non split) For drift tilt the diff back using btm front, top rear. For drag tilt it forward using top front, btm rear. "I have the otomotto kit and i have 2 large split and 2 small non split" This would be a kit designed for drag then. The whiteline doesnt have the scope for drift? and if you put all 4 budshes in the rear it is a marginal drift setup? EDIT! The whiteline doesnt have the scope for drag?

If you like to get away form it all Evans Head is a good spot, about 1/2hr before Kempsy, but being easter you'll be up for it where ever you go, even with a tent. As you approach Grafton there is a left turn up a hill, Centenary Drive, you can see the town up ahead on the right, bypasses the whole 80/60 cops single lane stuff. There are fixed cameras all over the show, easy to avoid because of the signage but still, they work.

If your like moir, the aim was for safe full potenial of my motor, they are seriously detuned for EPA and the real potential of the RB & SR can be realeased with good and informed mods.

I dont remember what was put in mine but they are Purple and on the bottom of the subframe so its all round performance, nolathane bushes went in as well. So I can say to the peoples that they reduce the cradle movement and give a more presice feel to the rear end. Thanks guys

how many KW are you hoping for?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...00&ppuser=17300 That is the link to my photo gallery for the photos of the day. The girls in pink were our neighbors and the 3 on stage are the winners of the bikini comp. NAR33's was lookin goood, shame I didn't see it run. And I have a small vid of 2rismo doing a launch just after lunch stops just before a good gear change too dammit! but cant figure out how to upload. Saw nor recieved any attitude from anyone. HaHa just lucky I guess.

I have them in my car and the improved handling is noticable, yet I meet other members and they haven't heard of them, its a bit hard trying to describe them because I really dont know what they do, although I know the difference of before/after. BEFORE When entering a corner I could feel the body move/angle over to the opposite of travel and then the shocks/springs dampen this effect. AFTER No body movement just springs/shocks doing their thing, still has body roll (until whiteliners are in) So I assume that the pineapples fill or harden a soft (family car) spot in the setup, can somebody fill in the gaps for me?

Hey Benjito Did anyone figure out why this happened?

1st team to 500 wins!

I've had an off and on problem with my Hicas since I got the car, it only happens when it's wet and the result was the same as your 1st post every time it rained or I washed it. After much effort and attempts I tracked my fault to the connector on the power steering pump, I spray it with water dipersant and bingo no problem. I packed it in lanosol.

3 decades that I know of and more before that Its like that episode of the Simpsoms when they ban beer. In the end they will have to accept it and work with it. It'll be always there!

It was pinging, clean up of the the plugs, coil packs bolts were loose and spray of CRC 2-26 (improves elec properties), and from my spark plug thread I will do an injector clean as well, as the plugs (and I assume everything in the chamber) is coated in petrol adititives thanks to our shitty 3rd world fuel (for yooz that don't know, we sell our crude to 3rd world refineries and buy it back at world prices). That hiflow thread is starting to make sense sic LOL.