R33S2

WTB a series 2, 2 stage electric aerial. Tried a series 1 aerial and it's completely different, the aerial plug is different, the tube is fatter, thusly the screw on bit too and the angle of the thingos is heaps less. I mangled the S2 and fitted it but the angle thingo FMU and it doesnt two stage any more. With the slimmer tube they made the black outer thingo to go through the panel to eliminate earthing?

I had flutter @ 14psi with my HKS BOV and similar FMIC but none with factory BOV, running the factory now.

Check for leaks. Was it boosting before BOV install?

yes but do it quick so no dust gets in.

Get rid of afms Go Microtech and MAP it!

anything less than premium and its revvv ping ping and could go bang

Get in contact with 3LIT3 FORCE dans info he has some sweet deals going.

Here in Qld I think the cops are pretty good compared to the ones I've met in NSW but they still do the law thing. On the same night in two different places one member was defected for a carbon bonnet while I was warned for potential liability that my carbon bonnet could cause. So I found an engineer to explain the facts for me. Its a very grey area stating a case of a car that he was travelling in getting defected for things that he had passed and getting off these fines at an enormous cost in time for him and driver and court costs even though he won. It seems to me that if a cop doesn't like you they have the power and the right to FLICK you around as much as the law allows. My only conclusion is don't give them a reason to dislike you, drive responsibly and take care of your ride, and if you wanna give it some stick do it where its safe, like the track, burnout comps or drift. My 2c

Air flow Calculator Found this while seaching for airflow data. Pretty heavy stuff for the novice but good reaseach and results for the techo heads. Has links to a good explaination of the thoery of turbo charging of motors and a damm good read if you can follow it.

In my experience, as a marine fitter, the accuracy of of most gauges is in direct proportion to the quality of the their build and the quality of installation. Cheap quality electronic gauges were a boon in my industry(I've run miles of copper piping) but some are still mech by standards, mainly steam and oil.

stephen22 sold me mine at a good price at the time

I went from where they go through the engine bay, infront of left wheel and I used a 180 and 2x 90 to bring it back behind FMIC and up to engine bay( looks better than my crap paint skills) I did it this way so when I go to a gtr style plenum I can go through the engine bay off the 180

The s2 sedan has the battery in the engine bay where our washer bottles are, anyway get a kit that runs back to standard ie pipes run back to left side. I installed this on mine and it works fine, the extra pipe didnt make much difference in lag or boost times

I thought that the Japanese giants all agreed to limit at 140kw? that is why it is soo easy to get more outa these beasties they're just detuned (small air in small exhaust out) to a limit to meet certain standards.

I have a suggestion and its a bit hard to explain so bear with me. When i post a reply on this site I end up located at the bottom of the page of the thread that I posted in and have to scroll up to get to the site nav bar to get back to the forum that I posted in (its the way I found quickest as I tried having the thread order reversed and its not my style) My suggestion is to have a second nav bar at the bottom of thread pages, theres room there above forum jump ( which I find a bit of a hassle ) It a lazy mans suggestion I know but if it improves user experience it could be worth a try. Also on the PM send message action you have a popup asking for confirmation OK/Cancel I feel it would less confusing as YES/NO And CHEERS to a good site!!

Got in touch with vic member INASNT he can supply whiteline for cheaper than thier website. Got to consider sizes now, thier upgrade is 24mm front & 20 rear but they also have 27F & 22R, he can supply the 27f but only 20r. Is it worth putting that combo on or would it affect the dynamics as it is the rear I want to tame? :confused: Diam Refers to the diameter in millimeters of the Whiteline/Selbys Swaybar catalogued bar. Generally these are "touring sizes" with replacements being around 1-5mmlarger than the original. Note that "extra heavy duty" oversize diameters are also available for many applications. Some Whiteline/Selbys Swaybars are of the same diameter as original, but only when replacing an OEMhollow or tubular design with a solid Whiteline/Selbys Swaybar.

Has anyone here ugraded their sway bar? can youz recommend a good one for the whales?

Alot are just weekend cars as the public transport is very good as well

Fiberglass is like glass with string inside (gives it flex) carbon fibre is like fibre glass but is as tough as steel to a point where it shatters like glass with steel string They both shatter go plastic.

I made my own from a piece of 2mm ali plate i can give template drawing with dims if needed (not drawn yet). Its a slide in fit with no bolts and seems to work well.

:confused: got similar problem :confused: (with home page) :confused:

Sorry to hijack But can anyone recommend a good sway bar/s for the R33 as the whale tends to whale a fair bit.

The mesh I had is all gone now anyways and yeah it would of been too heavy duty.

Problem found! The drive pulley keyway, off the crank, for the timing belt was loose giving the error readings fixed that and runs smoothas got 278rwhp. Thanks again for all suggestions.

rob82 Thats how the problem started we kept retarding untill there was no more adjustment