sly32

alot of cars, well all of my cars (rb20 skyline, rb25 skyline, ca18det 180sx, sr20 180sx), when ever i have idled them on stock idle (800), if you are coming down a hill, and theres traffic lights which turn red, and you brake and put in the clutch quickly, the car wont be able to catch in time and stall, so to counter this i bring up the idle so it can catch it in time, for your answer number 2, obviously i know i can adjust that, but if you have read my post i would like more info than that, when throttle is open, the vct is on so timing is put up to 20deg instead of 15 deg, will this cause anything on idle? also, if i was to do this to keep the vct off i would have to change the angle of the tps, so again, how do i know where its in the right position? what voltage does it put out in the right position? and what colour wires do i measure? also i mentioned my ecu doesnt have something i can adjust idle with, so really you havent answered anything,

is that how u reset the ecu? i thought u just un plug the ecu and that will reset it? ok so maybe 2morrow i will wind the screw in and start the car, then once the car is warm unplug the aac and wind it out, and plug back in to see if it has brought up the idle, if not then i will give that ecu reset a shot, what does your car idle at now? i still have all stock bov and stuff (going to block it off with a coke can cause it sounds like shit) otherwise am i able to adjust that screw on the throttle body? so it holds it open more? but then how do i adjust the tps to match that? if any1 could give me info on that, then that would be good, Thanks

no, no vacuum leaks at all,

hey ive had a think about this, is there anyway that i can make the throttle body more open without activating the vct? like there is the screw (stopper) on the throttle body, so maybe if i screw it out so the throttle body will be more open? to bring the revs up. but the will this activate the vct? or does it get its signal throught the metal stopper? or can the tps be adjusted? and will this still mean my idles will go up? Cheers hope this made sense

we are selling some, 17" 9 front 9.5 rears, awsome tyres not sure on offset but it is nice, we are selling them for $2200, anywhere up from 2g is normal, very good rim,

wind the screw out brings idle up, its out as far as possible, ive got 1 more choice, tighten the accel cable to make it idle at 1000? i know vct will be activated by doing this? but what does everyone think? it wont cause problems will it? or will the 20 deg advance with vct been on suck at idle?

hey guys, so hopefully this is the last time i have to put up a help question lol, but my rb25det idles at 750-800, i cleaned out all the cold start and aac valve and tried to adjust the ilde again, i did all that and it came up with 750-800 once hot, so alot of people think that is a good idle for the car (stock) but i find if i come to lights and brake a bit hard and put the clutch in at the same time the car will stall, so i like my idle between 900-1000 so it can catch it before it stalls, now i know that you can adjust the idle from 0-250rpm on the ecu, but this is whats screws, my ecu doesnt have a light or a switch, it must have been taken out for some unknown reason, so ive got 3 choices, unless there is another way? Put a RB25det series 1 ECU in and run the car on that (if this can be done? heard something bout different fuel maps?) Take the light and switch out of the series 1 ECU and solder it into the series 2 ecu? (if that can be done?) Or get a series 2 ecu that has it so i can adjust this idle, any comments would help me alot (sorry if this is ment to go in general topics) Cheers JV

any1 can help me? i cleaned it all out, was heaps of crap in there, cold start works well now, but i adjusted the idle screw and can only just get it up to about 800max, i dont have the control on my ecu, i think i have a ecu from a series 1 rb25? can i use this cause i know this has the control in it? Cheers

yeah man i wouldnt put alot of rb20 stuff on, so what i did is bought a front cut pretty much (no gearbox) as i already had a rb25 gearbox, it cost me $2100, for a rb25det from a 97 stagea with 70,000kms on it, comp was about 150 in all cylinders, then with the wiring loom i have a guy who does the conversion so i can run air con and wipers work, that cost me $350 for a over night job, everything on the car will line up with exhaust and stuff like that, strut brace wont fit if u have one (might if you have a manual tps) (auto has 2 plugs so it sticks up more), depending on if you want to keep hicas or not you will have to change your harmonic balancer if you want to keep it, (why would u), every1 says u have to use a rb25 accel cable by my rb20 one fitted fine, RB20 turbos are ceramic so dont even bother with putting them onto the 25, depending on series 1 or 2 engine, series 1 can use rb20 coilpacks (so if you have split fires), all your alternator and ps and aircon will fit the 25 engine, just make sure you put on the rb20 engine mounts onto the engine, Hope this helps

hey guys, so i havnt done this atm but i am going to, ive just put a rb25 series 2 into my r32, it idles at 750 once warm, and for me that is to low because i can stall it with a brake and clutch in, so i want it to idle around about the 1000rpm mark, so i saw that you can adjust this with the ecu because no metter which way i turn the screw on the aac it wont change the idle, so maybe a clean might help, but this screw on the ecu, i know what your talking about, but mine doesnt have that or the light? wtf, any chance i can take a light and a screw thing out of a spare ecu i have and solder them into the correct postion? from what i can see it has the right marks to ment to have 1 so i dont know there isnt any in there? any help would be good, Thanks

It doesn't have an ID tag and the core doesn't have anything eligible on it. The actuator is a Nissan one too, so that's not really any help. The girl I bought it off said it's a ball bearing GT2510 and the guy who I sold it to took it to a couple of mechanics and they both said it's a bush bearing and not a GT2510. However when you spin the wheel it keeps spinning and I have been told that this means that it is a ball bearing one. Is this right?

tru well i was just checking, i think ive put it 4.5L so yeah, i think it should be fine, the only reason about oil pressure and amount you put in, is the fact that i used to work at subaru and i remember an guy doing a home service on his wrx, he over filled the oil a shitload and it lost comp in one piston because of it, so i think it would be fine, as for oil, use a 5-40 oil? royal purple or something, Cheers JV

Hey all, I bought an engine with a turbo off a friend and she said that the turbo is an HKS GT2510. I trusted her and sold it as this but the guy I sold it to sent it back saying it is not. So can anyone help me identify what type of turbo it is from the photos below? Thanks.

hey, just got my rb25 going, it was a stagea motor and ive put a 2wd sump on, so i noticed that the rb25 dip stick is shorter than rb20? is this because of the sump for the awd system is smaller, so thats why you have a shorter stick to make up the the loss of oil? reason i ask is because when i first start my car oil pressure goes up to 5-6kg/2 (hope thats the right measure) but when its fully warm and idling at 750-800 rpm it sits on 2kg, it may only be going up to 6 because its a pretty thick oil and the fact that its going through a oil cooler and relocate kit? oil im using is penrite Sinthetic 5, 5-50w or 60w can remeber what its called, on the website they reccomend using a semi sinthetic HPR10 or HPR5? should i not worry about the size of dipstick and leave oil at the hieght according to the stick? Cheers

gives you more torque man, faster and easier you get the power from engine to wheels the more torque you have, for drifting people dont always use lightened flywheels because they want the heavier flywheel to keep the engine spinning (revs higher), as for clutch, i just got my rb25 geatrbox and engine into my r32, drove it out yesterday, put a 5 puk button into it, pedal isnt to heavy at all, but atm its really on off, shutters if you have it half way so i rev and dump, maybe when it wheres in it will be better,

ok man, i would use the series 2 loom, coilpacks are different, so obviously this part of loom will have to be modded if you want series 2 engine, not sure if you canr un series 1 stuff on series 2 engine? like will all injectors and stuff plug in? some reason i dont think it will, so series 2 loom, series 2 afm, your cpu will be fine because its power fc, only difference between series 1 and 2 cpu is the fuel map is different i believe, but not to bigger deal, hope this helps, JV

im guessing the same thing happens with the rb25det? i will have to check the ecu, i just tried adjusting with the screw not disconnecting anything and also the ecu may be in test mode, so if it is this will be good, can adjust the idle 2morrow, idling at 750 for me is to low because it does stall sometimes, let me know, \ Cheers JV

not a clutch, gearbox or diff issue, its 100% around the engine, as R31Nismoid has said, check things like spark and timing, AFM, to be honest, could be something to even do with fuel, say when you put your foot down, it just puts a lot more fuel into the engine then wat its ment to which causes the drop in power because it cant really burn it (splutters), then once thats out of the system 0.5secs or what ever it might be it will burn normal again and you get power back,, If it was your clutch and you put your foot down, revs will go up, speed will go down becuase your not going anywhere, and normally once it starts burning like that it wont grab at the higher revs, so take the point of gearbox or clutch completely out,

ok cheers man, thanks for the reply, JV

ok guys, i ordered the belt, i ordered a 3pk855 which should be fine, thermstat should be fine to with a bleed, just need to adjust this idle, the colour plugs are purple and brown, the brown is the acc and the purple is the one my mate told me to twist out to bring up the idle, can any1 comfirm? ive uploaded pics to so you can see the plugs, Cheers

hey guys, ok so first, got my rb25 running in my r32 today, on cold start it idles at 1000rpm then on hot it idles at 500rpm but if i rev it and let it drop it will stall, so to adjust that do i just wind out that thing with a brown plug? under the purple acc valve? i had to replace it as the brown plug was broken so i just wound it all the way in, also with this as i put the revs up a bit with the accel cable, as soon as i move the tb a tiny bit i can hear a lil click? is that the vct? im guessing it is but if any1 can run out to there 25 and start it and test this? if not what could it be? Then with the thermostat, i had to change some welsh plugs on the thermostat side so i took the thermostat out, when i started the engine today i let it heat up, (left both bleed valve screw in and radiator cap) as i wanted to see if i fixed the welsh plug, didnt want coolant going around the welsh plugs i replaced, so the temp hit 90 on my defi gauge (sensor is in top pipe) so is either my thermo stat gone? or is it because of air lock that it didnt open up? o also while im at it, could i get part numbers for: thermstat (if i need 1) Ps belt (series 2 stagea motor) (3PK belt) i think thats it, any info would be good thanks, Cheers JV

TE37's anyone?

bump

asked gcg about the turbo 3076 .82 rear housing, external gate with tial 38mm waste gate from memory, they said it would be $2330 or something around that, that ok price?

nice man, this is the same setup i will be putting onto my rb25 but i will run a external gate on a 6boost manifold, probably smaller injectors than what your using, and just some poncams 256 deg, i was only planing on running about 17psi for a daily, looks like i will probably get some good numbers, gw JV