sly32

yes comes with everything, pm replied to

Item: RB26DETT R33 Age: Condition: Perfect, still has all black paint on plenum, very stock motor, stock clutch etc... Price: $4600, or Will swap for a RB25DET cash my way, (for all those who want to upgrade to a 26) This might save you some money etc... To Fit: anything you want to put it in Location: Brisbane Contact: PM me or post up your offer, Comments: Rb26dett is in perfect condition, comes with look and computer, pretty much everything, so if you want to swap your rb25 plus chas my way i would be happy to take a rb25det with loom and computer to put into my car, This engine has 115,000kms on it, inspections welcome, Thanks JV

ok thanks for that, JV i would prefer s2 motor, so coil packs aswell, but if its series 1 still throw me a offer, Thanks JV

hey, so ive spent a heap of money on rb20's, 1 i just put in has bent valves so i cant be bothered changing the head so im going with the 25, Things i need, Motor with everything except Turbo, Loom, ECU, AFM, im pretty sure i can transfer all the stuff like alternator ps pump and aircon from my old engine? so i wont need any of that, also i might need coil packs? ive got split fires in my rb20, can they be transfered? Anyways offer me a price? BRISBANE ONLY would like comp test done before buying it aswell, and if i can see it running with comp test, even better, Thanks, just pm me, JV

Both motors back up for sale as the sales fell through due to lack of funds. offers anyone?

nar i havnt, i sent my ecu down to sam to chip, it has nothing to do with the ecu though as i installed a stock ecu and afm to see if it was the problem but it wasnt, on another forums some1 has suggested that it could be the grounding from engine and battery? maybe thats why when the revs gets higher and so does the charge if the ground is shit then it screws up? possible? sounds like it might have something to do with it? z32afm has been tested and is fine, alternator is fine, fuel pressure and fuel pump are fine, coils are fine, changed the injector harness and injectors, split fire coilpacks are fine, coilpack harness has been changed to a fresher 1, (did the same thing on the old harness though) changed igniter, and resistor pack, so maybe it is the grounding? cause if it was cas then it would come up on the ecu check? and normally when the cas goes then the car wont run at all,

who's sam? yeah its just i cant figure out the problem i dno why its doing this? EDIT: o u mean dr drift, yeah the car wasnt running right to start with turned out ti was the alternaotr that went in it so it was trying to run of battery, thats all fine now, and its not the chip because it did the same with a stock computer and afm in there, did a ecu test and it came back all ok

Hey, ok so ive finally gotten my car out of the garage, but then i decided to take the car up and down the road just to make sure its running sweet, so i took it to the end of the road (probably didnt go over 30kp/h), then on the way back boosted it a tiny bit maybe only to about 4g then changed gear, it then dropped a cylinder which is what ive been having troubles with, then it drop a few more made a noise and then stalled, (the noise sounds like the piston slapping when it drops a cylinder), So This is driving me crazy with it keep dropping cylinders and what not, what could it be? I have changed the sparkplugs many times between iridiums and coppers, I have installed a 500hp fuel pump Split fire coil packs, changed igniter, changed resistor pack, checked the injector (visual check) injector 6 was pissing out fuel from when i first install them but it looks fine now, fuel pressure is fine, on idle i think it was 37psi, i have a dr drift ecu and z32 afm, but i dont know why it would drop cylinders like it is, if i turn the car off and back on most the time all cylinders will be firing but then will soon stuff up again? im pretty over this and thing of taking it to a workshop, Cheers JV

gearbox SOLD

well im about to bin mine, tried every bloody adjustment and 3 bottles of clutch fluid later i still cant dis-engage so i cant even get the car into gear, apparently when you get a heavy pressure plate etc.... theres a point where you rubber hose to the slave will just exspand instead of pushing the slave out because of the pressure which is needed, so my APP 1 piece braided line arrived today, will put it in tomorrow and i hope my clutch works, otherwise i will be cut, (that box thing was the dumbest design ever)

yeah man send me a pm about it, i have a r32, cali style paint job, keen as, can always get off work, pic added, let me know if you want me to come Cheers JV

how do you tell if its a push or pull type? i have someone interested in the whole engine so not going to seperate the turbos from motor just yet. see if it falls through. thanks

Yes have decided am willing to part so shoot us a pm guys. willing to negotiate guys. mike

any reasonable offers guys?

everything sold guys except for steering rack $80 32 dash $50 thanks

Sorry guys i made a mistake the Motor is actually from a R33 GTR. if you want more pics i am willing to take some more pics and post them up, want some interest first. thanks

Item:RB26dett, gearbox, tail shaft, front shaft, loom,computer Age:r32 GTR Condition:good condition Price:$5900 To Fit: (What car)GTR Location:Brisbane west Contact:Mike 0423 849 355 Comments:got this motor from japan imported it myself. was going to put it in my gtst but ran out of funds so need some money to finish project. engine has 115K. both motor and gearbox are in good condition. comes with motor, gearbox, loom, all accessories, drive shafts. here are some pics. feel free to ask questions thanks [attachmen =181588:22092008045.jpg]

Item:RB20 turbo Age: Condition:good cond no shaft play Price:$150 firm To Fit: (What car)anything with a T3 flange Location:brisbane Contact:0423 849 355 Comments:turbo is in good condition was going to put it on my car but then upgraded to a r33 turbo instead.

mmmm but in a way isnt that oppisite to what i have? like from what i can tell youve said that your clutch wouldnt release meaning it was on 24/7, in that case i can understand cutting a little bit off the sleeve would help, but because mine is the opposite i dno, i hope this works what im about to try cause there shouldnt be any reason why this isnt working, o well, will soon find out,

i thought u had to get a r32 Gtr speedo drive and put a nivara cog? unless i read wrong and thats what you did, ive heard of a few people have theres break off as they didnt build it properly, i thought the cogs where plastic aswell, sucks that your gearbox got blown, i would just run it without a speedo, thats what im doing atm,

hey, so ive had a few issues with my car putting in a new engine and then a r33 gearbox into my r32, but i decided to do everything while the engine gearbox was out, So ive put a new 5 puk clutch in, new release bearing, strong nismo release fork pivot, machined flywheel, (just the stuff that might aswell be done while everything is apart) so i got everything running and then went to drive the car out of the shed, but i cant get it into gear, the clutch isnt disengaging (spelling), i have bled the clutch many times cause at first i thought it was an air bubble maybe, but that was sweet, then i remembered with my mates car i had to weld a 5mm thick plate onto the fork and drill a little groove for the slave to push against (so this means im pretty much making the slave cylinder about 5-10mm longer but cant be certain of actual length) so i decided to do that with mine because hey if it ends up not releasing the clutch at least i can adjust the clutch from the pedal, but this didnt work either, The bar that joins to the clutch pedal (which is used for an easy adjust) is all the way out already so i cant pull it out any further and that means i cant disengage the clutch, Hope this make sense, But if any1 has any ideas on how to get ym clutch to work please say so, What i was thinking is to adjust the clutch all the way in (the bar) so there isnt going to be much pressure on the slave, and bleed it that way (by this im hoping more clutch fluid will get pulled into the master) and that means when i pull the bar right out again it will be putting more pressure onto the slave as theres more fluid in there? make sense? Anyways let me know, im stuck for idea's Thanks JV

i wouldnt bother, not for a extra $300, they should be fine anyways, unless you are going for insane hp, i wouldnt worry about it,

damn that could be bad then as i want to use this car for drift, i dont want to much oil getting to the head, mmmm or maybe it will just read at 4 on first start up cause the oil is cold, i havent driven the car yet or let the oil warm up so most likely it will drop in oil pressure with the oil been warm? any thoughts about this? cheers jv

tru, but in the end he will want to flog it, (well i would if i had that much power, anything with a turbo i would wanna redline alot haha)

as this is for oil control in rb;s, though i might aswell post in here, i just put a new rb into my car, the oil pressure is reading 4 on my defi gauge, i thought its ment to be 2 on idle, oil is a tiny bit higher than the high mark, probably closer to the hump, is that why its at 4 the oil pressure or could this engine have after maket stuff in it like pump or something, etc.... nice thread btw JV