linkems

test boost in 3rd or 4th where there is some proper load. Ignore boost in 1st and 2nd gear where there is hardly any load.

vipec use that cat light as a check engine light, so what ever alerts your tuner has set up to trigger the light. Could be anything from overboost, watertemp etc... By the sounds of it most likely overboost. Speak to your tuner about it.

Electronic Boost controllers do not bleed, they simply supply pressure to the actuator in a normal situation or block it when energized. At 100% duty there is supposed to be no pressure going to the actuator at all so you lose all control and run "max boost". Now mac valves work pretty much the same, only it has a third port that that vents the pressure, as oppose to pressure going no where when solenoid is energized either way they work the same.I am a bit baffled why your car can make the boost on the turbo tech but not on the solenoid, either the blitz is incapable of running that much boost or when you switched controllers you coincidentally introduced some boost leaks to the system (intercooler pipes etc...). There is no off shelf actuators stiffer then 14psi, however if you shorten the rod (10mm) like i told you you'll get up to 19psi out of it. This will not cause an overboost it is doing the exact same thing your boost controller is attempting to do only its doing it mechanically and a lot better. The advantage is with this much tension on the actuator, there is no creeping and boost builds faster and harder then any electronic controller can attempt to. Downside is your minimum boost has been raised, so there is no real safety boost any more. I personally ran 8mm (10 full turns) preload on my car which is 17.5psi, just make sure you do them both even and switch your boost controller to 0 before you go for a drive it will only take you 5minutes to do this so give it a crack. With this much tension from the spring its hard to attatch the rod to the wastegate, so use an air compressor or air pump to help.

if your not having any luck, screw in some more preload on the actuators. With it dialed all the way in it should give you 19psi gate pressure and shit load more response. Then 25psi will be a piece of cake, all depends on how much minimum boost you want to run though. My spec r also doesnt make any changes from base pressure until 40+.

yeah wd40 was first thing i tried

I tried putting some wurth rost off ice (freezes the bolt putting fine cracks and breaking off the rust), which worked fine for 2 of the bolts they actually came out with ease. However two won't budge, contemplating using a breaker bar now but scared the studs will snap .

The 412rwkw spoken of is a bad example, his clutch was slipping on the day. His clutch did not bite in 3rd most the time, but also sometimes in 1st and 2nd. He only got one clean run with a 60ft of 1.87s/11.27s/127mph. His 60ft is slower then yours yet his time and trap speed are the same, so quite possibly 3rd gear slipping again.

That stock sensor is really slow, inb4 haltec/motec/paltronic well... those computers can all be fitted with any modern sensor which respond much faster. So if you relocate this sensor to a less heat soaked position will it be fast enough to tune with?

cool thanks mate, unfortunately i live in the state where police want to lock you up for any modifications lol.

Does any one have photos of this pod fitted to their car? does it exceed the height of the steering wheel/cluster hood? cheers Pat

I actually also have a hardpipe kit and i can fit it there but wanted to go with a more stealthy factory engine bay. Guess at the end of the day Function > Form.

I'm fitting an aftermarket computer and have the option of running a more modern air intake temperature sensor as oppose to the stock rb26 one that is slow and soaks up the heat of the intake manifold. I am also fitting an r34 intercooler which has a nice hole to mount the sensor on the end tank. Will this give accurate readings or will i need to mount it much closer to the intake manifold.

r32 gtr pipes are longer. R33 and r34 pipes are the same

Last time i was on a track i did a few runs in third gear timing 80-120km with a 10hz gps reciever. I wanted to log some numbers so i can compare my times before and after mods. I thought that spooling up from 60km would give it plenty of time to build boost, it recorded pretty consistent times of 2.74 and 2.75. I then tried one run from lower rpm about 40km, the time then dropped to 2.69. So how long you load the car up makes a huge difference.

GTR APEXi power intake pod filters $120 Green Label Gtst AFM with plug working fine with both meshs intact $60 R32 GTR Essential Catch Can fits behind the battery $150 Greddy dual pillar pods including boost and oil temp gauge with sensor $200 Apexi Rsm + Gsensor (has some minor scratches) $170 3 bar map sensor uses exact same calibration as the GM sensor brand new still in packaging $50 GTR 8psi Actuators with adjustable rods $70 Not much left, msg if your interested.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/403667-rb26-vacuum-diagram/page__p__6422729__hl__vacuum__fromsearch__1#entry6422729

doesn't necessarily mean you were on a happy dyno either. If you get some datalogging setup next time you hit the track it would go a long way, could be an unusual situation like boost drop or retarded timing. Either way the car was making low power on the track tonight. Ash 123mph is very fast for 330kw, what traps did you run at 365kw?

Hi got 3 Blurays for sale i have watched each of them probably 1-2 times. All disc in perfect unscratched condition. Take the lot for $35, located in melbourne south east.

GTR APEXi power intake pod filters $120 Green Label Gtst AFM with plug working fine with both meshs intact $60 R32 GTR Essential Catch Can fits behind the battery $150 Greddy dual pillar pods including boost and oil temp gauge with sensor $200 Apexi Rsm + Gsensor (has some minor scratches) $170 3 bar map sensor uses exact same calibration as the GM sensor brand new still in packaging $50 GTR 8psi Actuators with adjustable rods $70 Make offers, worse i can say is no

that looks more like 16psi by 4000rpm on that graph, which is still good. Weren't they planning on screwing more boost in? either way good result gotta be happy with that.

Adz2332 They are for rb26/nismo afm. The z32s won't fit, my mate had the same ones as this and cut the flange off and welded a z32 one on. Not really sure if it's worth the effort though.

Hey guys some parts up for sale all located in Melbourne south east. More pics on request. GTR APEXi power intake pod filters including adapters and brackets in very good condition $120 R32 GTR Essential Catch Can fits behind the battery $150 Green Label Gtst AFM with plug working fine with both meshs intact $60 Greddy dual pillar pods including boost and oil temp gauge with sensor $200 some minor cracks on the apillar Apexi Rsm + Gsensor (has some minor scratches) $170 3 bar map sensor uses exact same calibration as the GM sensor brand new still in packaging $50 Suitable for any one planning to run high boost on Link, Haltech etc... GTR 8psi Actuators with adjustable rods $70 Great for dialing in some preload and getting turbos to come on boost faster

hey guys I have a blitz dual sbc spec r which is holding boost fine but i want to change to a mac valve for the added functions when paired up with the ecu. I've read a lot of mixed opinions about the typical mac valve 3 port 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA especially them being bad on TT setups. For the guys that have had success 1.What frequency is your valve set to? 2.What boost are you running with the the boost controller off and actuator spring on it's own? 3.What is your high boost and duty cycle set to? 4.Does the valve get noisy? did you mount it with a rubber insulator? also is any one running a dual solenoid setup like this? Any problems?

"non-functional" afms can be setup as an anolog switch which can throw the car into a simulated limp mode when disconnected

Didn't realise it was on paulr33's FAQ, found the answer.