linkems

Hi I have disconnected my o2 sensors and want to set the power fc to open loop but i can only see Japanese characters. Which setting do i need to switch it too? OR

at idle/vacuum air will draw from the the driver side breather port through the pcv (one way valve) into the intake manifold. Any time when you start making boost, the pcv will block and no air will draw into the intake manifold. Air is sucking through the passenger side breather to the the rear turbo intake. I think in a idle/vacuum case the pcv side has higher pressure drawing in, and the turbo side isn't doing much. Plumb your can inline with the turbo side and reconnect your pcv like stock. Or plumb both sides up into one can, or run two cans alternatively. The turbo side will pick up all the oily fumes on boost. The pcv side only picks up oily fumes during vacuum situation. here is the right way to plumb your can, every other way is probably incorrect http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/40402-greddy-oil-catch-can/page__st__60__p__1179419#entry1179419

It's bloody loud, kinda makes more sense now. I have a nismo intank and don't really notice anything while driving around, and anything above idle should give 12v. Extra 1-2v shouldn't make any real audible difference then.

at full power 13.5-14+ volt, how loud is the fuel pump? will it sound about as loud as when it is priming with the engine off?

so it's definitely worthwhile to setup a second can if you plan on running ethanol? I was only planning to run one can on the turbo intake side

scotty does your second can between the pcv and manifold pick up much oil?

yeah that's the exact same part number

dont forget mine are brand new yours probably a bit softer now, but cracking open at 5psi with no or little preload sounds more like my std 8psi actuators. If you find out they are 100% not 15lbs units and want to get a pair pm and i'll link you.

thats interesting, it's almost like we are looking at two completely different things. Note i am in the process of fitting brand new 15.6psi actuators to my -7s (already on the car) i'm assuming that -9 and -7 have same physical housing. with my actuators off the car it takes around 14-15psi to see any movement on the rod. With it connected to to the wastegate i could only dial in 8mm before the rod was minimum length. The start reference point being when the actuator rod just manages to connect onto the wastegate tightly (if you spin it half a turn counter clock wise it will connect to the gate loosely). With 8mm preload it takes the air compressor 22-23psi before the gates even begin to open. Can you confirm that you are using the same start reference point when you adjusted your preload and also if your actuators have the part number 430819-367 on the sticker. If you find it hard to see the sticker try checking if the last digit ends with a 7 and not a 9.

tommis85: with your foot pump hooked up what pressure did the wastegate start to crack open? how much preload have u dialed in (1 full turn is equivalent to 0.8 mm) and as a result what is your peak boost. Cheers

Would an accusump be the perfect place to connect to that plug?

cool thanks

Hi couldn't figure out where the thermostat is located in this relocation kit so just wanted to double check that removing this big gold plug (circled red) to fit an oil pressure sensor, isn't going to affect the oil cooler operation. Thanks

thanks mate

hey guys does the hose marked red end up going all the way to the factory solenoid then back to the yellow marked hoses? Is this vacumm source (red) from before or after the throttle body?

Hey ash was this their gtr specific cooler or one of their universal ones sold with piping kits?

Is your car making stable boost? Is it running 18psi consistently or does it drop when your car feels sluggish? what is the air intake temperature hitting? computer could be pulling timing out

What are people dialing in on their cam gears, i've seen some -7s setup making 230kw!! by 4000rpm and most making around 180-190.

have a read http://www.aus300zx....ad.php?t=257859

gm flex fuel sensor outputs a square-wave voltage signal. The signal varies in both frequency (50-150hz) and pulse width for fuel temp. Either pull the sensor's signal up to 5v to the ecu's digital input, or connect it to a zeitronix content display which has two analog 0-5v outputs one for fuel temp one for e content.

i live 2mins from springy caltex, however the cheltanham rd and clayton one are only 15mins away so not exactly far. Having small dash 7s on 8psi actuator which i know will struggle to hold high boost, perhaps united will be the better option if it can make more power with less boost. Who tuned your car? how much more duty are you using on your injectors on united, 10%?

can you list the results of power and boost with each fuel? did united not make any more power when running equal boost? cheers

the penrite hpr series claim fully synthetic, does any one know if its a group 3 or 4?

i understand the gain is too high, so i'll turn it down. But for me to run stable 18psi can i get away with putting a restrictor inline and lowering the gain settings? Or is it more likely i'll need to replace my actuator with 14psi ones? cheers

Would fitting a restrictor to the pressure line going to the solenoid do much?