linkems

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Rears are just fillers and they days of 6x9s in the rears are long gone. Too much noise from the rear ends up ruining the sound quality. Most sound quality competition cars don't use rears and if they do it is a very faint sound stage should be coming from the front.

The dash 5 will flow the same as stock turbos at lower boost, so for example stock 14psi = dash 5 10psi. Having said that the epa won't put your car on load as they are just free reving in neutral so your car won't ever see any where near those load points. The important part is making sure you have your aftermarket boost controller completely removed from the system and you have factory solenoids hooked up to your actuators. If you have factory injectors with factory ecu and a good cat/muffler you should pass fine. Good luck

Can someone please fast this vin BNR32309034, and a quick rundown of what it means those screen shots look like jiberish to me lol. Thanks in advance

Your tuner is going to need to be familiar with setting up water/meth injection. Otherwise your gonna have research it and work with him on tuning the car. Spend a couple of hours reading up on it and how different kits use different methods of controlling injection flow etc... The most well sorted setup i've seen is the aquamist hsf-6 which is easy to setup and tune, has progressive control, fail safe and reliable. It's not cheap though at about 1k, worth the extra coin over the cheaper setups in my opinion. Cheaper setups will do the same job just not as well.

was ur dyno done on rwd or awd. 240-250 awkw is huge for stock turbos, and pretty spot on for rwkw given roughly 10% difference between the two. Either way top effort, u might even touch 11s if u take off slightly quicker.

Nice what 60ft did you pull? what revs did you launch it at?

Sorry to hijack but kinda on topic, with regards to limiter bashing. Would a launch control like the gizzmo set at a much lower rpm say 4-5000rpm put stress on the oil pump? If someone can explain why as well that would be great cheers Pat

Can someone explain the reason why a launch control like this will destroy an oil pumps?

Good idea, the fc is set at 60 knock before the light comes on, how can i set this value lower/what is a suitable value?

Hey guys As much as i love the power fc and it's knock feature, i'd prefer a device that would flash a warning light when i'm on throttle and my eyes are pinned on the road. I've decided that the turboxs knock lite would be a good idea, link. I have a couple of questions though 1.Would running off the factory det sensor affect the reading i currently get on my power fc? 2.There are two det sensors on the rb26, which sensor should i use for the turboxs knock lite? i would assume the rear cylinders are more prone to knocking Cheers Pat

That very lucky guy would like to thank you for keeping this baby in micky mouse condition

i'll offer you $350

Hey peter can you put me down for one of these Cheers Pat

Thanks champ appreciated

Hi ran a search and fair of you guys have run this controller but no answer to my question in there. If someone has the pdf can they please email it to me z32pwr[at]hotmail.com. I basically did the correct self learn mode and got the car boosting nice and accurately. But i could only control low boost, dont know how to control high boost. On a second note when i'm not in mode setting and just normally on, if i press low it puts me into low boost mode with the red 'overboost' led emitting, and when i press high the light goes off is this normal. this is what happens when i press mode: 1. low boost setting (works good) 2.Offset setting to control over/under boosting 3.another boost setting, thought it was for high (but after setting it and putting the car on high it still ran stock boost) 4.timmer setting for scramble i guess? 5.Overboost warning (also cuts the controller out if ur car hits past this setting). A couple of other questions is scramble a third boost setting seperate or is scramble just the same as high boost with a timer on it? Is offset have an effect on sensitivity or is it just an outright 'offset'? What value do you guys use, i want the boost to come on as HARD and FAST as possible dont mind it spiking a bit if it has to. I think i set it too high moving from stock 100 all the way to 135 think its boosting a bit slow now.

Shift kit is awesome, i have tried out many things with my car running manual ecus, hks auto line controllers and nothing comes close. While they did a good job shifting firmly they did not respond fast enough, ie. i would always bounce off the limiter when manualy selecting from first to second. Now with the stage 2 shift kit it not only shifts even harder but is much more responsive, i can easily shift the gears manually with just a bit of a delay from when i move the gear stick. Like to thank 4door_Sleeper for organising and mv auto.

MV is in sa, i would assume that the r34 price is same as the group buy price. Mike gave me the group buy price for my z32. For those doing the vb them selves dont do the silly thing i did and leave out the selector . Many thanks to abo bob for helping me with this prob over msn .

Oh bloody hell i'm pissed off after all that trouble installing it, i put the car in d and it goes no where, basically wont engage in any gear. If anyone thats done it them self can give me some answers to where they put certain things that would be great because i can't call mike up until tommorrow. The two centre circles get plugged up with wesh plugs, 2 of those springs are removed and not used. The skinny long (softest) spring is placed in the hole closest to the engine. Heres wherei could have possibly been wrong, did u goes place that spring in the hole closest to engine or closest to tailshaft. Apart from that there was probly 1 left over screw but i think that was because it was already on the new vb. Any way would be great if someone can reply to the post other wise i'll find out tommorrow from mike and let you know how i go.

Anyone running regular dexron 2? what brand? i know thats what they run them selves but i cant find any valvoline with dexron 2 might go dexron 3.

Firm shifts are better for the box then flared shifts. Only downside is it adds a lot more heat to the box, hence you need a decent oil cooler. If the boxes were heating up that is probably the reason why the blew.

Excuse my ignorance but where does the valve body fit on the auto gearbox. Is it a gearbox out job?, if im correct i have taken off a couple oil pans on various transmissions and when you remove the pan, the valve body is right there? hence its a pretty easy do it your self job? Also can someone calling mv ask what modifications he recomends to handle 280-300rwkw range? Will a tranny cooler and valve body be enough or is there a lot more to do.