ShadowKnyght

Thanks for the reply, but Damn - that is $$ So no one makes and sells a rip off version then? Hmmm either way - any idea where to source them from in japan? URL?

No one? Surely with all the V35's flooding the market at the moment (check car sales the amount on their for sale has been increased by about 800% in the last couple of months!) somebody here has looked into aftermarket kits etc and can help?

Hello All, Just bought myself a V35 coupe. Only thing missing is a rear spoiler... Can anyone help me source or sell me one like in the pictures below? I saw one car add on cars sale where the car yard guy called it a "DoLuck" rear spoiler but I am thinking it may have been a Nissan optional? Without a spoiler: With:

yeah may have to try that I idled for a long while the other day though - but never really saw the fault - but the temp outside was 18+ so it really does seem to only get bad below 13 degrees... anyway - with my head in the engine bay - there did seem to be a just detectable hiss noise to the left of the main engine area - between the main body and the side part to the left where the air and a fair few hoses go... not sure what that part of the engine is called... Not sure if there is a true leak or hiss or if it just sounds like it due to the shape of the area of that engine making or creating an almost sea shell effect funnelling other engine noise through...

Dead Knock sensor?

Reason for suspecting O2 initially is my poor fuel economy and the rich mixture etc... So you used Bosch EL Flacon sensor? I used the NGK one that is for the R33...? did I do wrong. NGK / NTK OZA395-E2 $85.80 Do you know the part number for the fuel filter? The coolant sensor I take is a temp sensor? might be my next thing to check (part number?) Any idea how much it costs to ultrasonically clean the injectors? Again remember this only happens when the engine is warm so - not sure if alot of the above applies...

Appears my car is overly optomistic - thinks nothing is wrong... I get 55 all ok! But my car once warm has been idling like crap (rough - car shudders randomly - possibly missfiring), and recently started to miss fire even when reved over 1200 rpm (prior to this it could "idle" fine if I kept her over 1200rpm). Very rarely it will back fire when changing from 2nd to third... I have changed the spark plugs and the O2 sensor... change the oil and filter and run a tank with some injector cleaner... As this problem only shows up once the engine is warm - not sure what to put it down to? temp sensor? AFM? Coils? blocked exhaust? fuel filter? injectors? Australia's shitty fuel? My mixture appears to be running rich (not sure if this is due to the missfiring or something else as the O2 sensor was changed - and when doing so it was covered in black soot. Carbon. As the O2 sensor seems to be the main part in the system that is supposed to regulate the fuel misture I am at a loss as to how to lean it out?? My thread is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/fi...t-p3938115.html

Are these the codes for the R34? Could not find them when searching this forum... but had downloaded a Skyline manual pdf a few days ago - are these right? ECU Diagnostic Codes 11 Crankshaft position sensor 12 MAF sensor circuit (air flow meter) 13 Coolant temperature circuit 14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit 21 Ignition circuit 31 ECU (ouch!) 34 Knock sensor 43 Throttle position circuit 45 Injector leak 51 Ignition circuit 54 Auto signal to ECU 55 All OK

Thanks - found it Supposed to be at work but my car is annoying me so..

So where was this located on the stagea / R34? Behind the coin tray?

hmmm car still back fires on occasion as well generally when changing into third... again all these issues only happen once the car has warmed up, and tend to only occur under 1200RPM (although the other night in third I swear it was missfiring) - so I assume this could not be any of the following? - Injectors - Coils? (unless the crack only gets bad once warm?) - failing ignitor module (unless these can be heat effected) - failing cam angle sensor (unless these can be heat effected) Not sure on this one? - dead knock sensor - faulty engine coolant temp sensor - bad injector(s) Unless I installed a bad O2 sensor or one of my crimps failed to connect properly I think I can now rule out the - dead O2 sensor Anyway - anyone know how to check the codes on an R34?

Well the NGK connector is light Grey and more solid looking with all the spade pins Vertical and positioned in the center of the connector. The R34 or BOSCH connector is black, maybe a fraction smaller and all the spade pins are Horizontal and thinner and positioned in the top area of the connector. Might take some shots if I get around to it...

Not 100% sure how to get the error codes to display on an R34 / Stagea S2? Everything I have read on these forums refers to the R32 and the R33. The R34 does not have the fuse box on the right and just below the steering wheel like the R33 so... not 100 on how to get into this mode... would be handy to know though if any one can point me in the right direction...

Ok removed the original O2 sensor - very Sooty / carbon? http://www.ngkntk.com.au/tech_index.htm?ht...nsors_index.htm Excessive Carbon or Oil Deposits Excessive carbon and oil deposits can damage the sensor. Carbon deposits can clog the sensor and effect its response time. The cause can be a rich mixture, exhaust air leaks or high oil consumption due to worn piston rings or valve seals. mine was a different head obviously but still... How does one regulate the "Richness" of the mix? i.e. if my car is running to rich? Does this point towards another type of obvious failure...? I have added a injector cleaning bottle to my fuel tank so hopefully that also helps... So far though I still noticed the shudder exists... I am hoping this will disappear as the ECU recalibrates but maybe I am being to hopeful... I removed the battery terminal and put the lights on and my foot on the brake to speed up the discharge, this reset the trip computer so I assume it is also enough to reset the ECU? or do I need to do more? BTW some basic info on the R34: Original 02 Sensor was Marked: LIC. BOSCH A24-A71 047 87280 New Sensor used (Has wrong connector so needed the BOSCH connector cut off and swapped using crimps as you can not solder to the stainless steel wires used on the BOSCH cable loom): NGK / NTK OZA395-E2 $85.80 Spanner used to Remove the O2 sensor - 22mm I first removed the Shield plate that the 02 sensor was cabled tied to (that holds the connector away from the heat of the engine) this gave me a tiny little bit more room to work. to do this you only have to remove 1 x 10m screw. I had to use the spanner on an angle as there is not enough room between the firewall and the exhaust pipe, and the engine and some other box thing... But anyway long story short - it came out ok - so no special tool required.

Ok confirmed 100% wrong connector on the NGK O2 sensor for use with the R34 - I will solder the existing connector onto the sensor and hope it works... BTW - my existing O2 sensor had a stack of black soot on the tip - what would this tend to indicate?

As this is the O2 thread can anyone please add the final verdict on if the R33 NGK O2 sensor will actually work on the R34 engines? I have read a lot of maybes and about to tries but no - yep it worked for me....

Thanks again - Guess I need to start buying parts - or simply bite the bullet and take her in for a professional to take a look - especially as I can possibly claim a lot of this on insurance (problem did not exist prior to the car being stolen...) Still - anyone on the part number for the R34 O2 sensor?

hmmm ok - with the R34 engine though - you have to pull half the engine apart to access the coil packs - so you suggest put it back together minus the cover plate over the plugs and then perform these tests... can this not itself damage the engine...? So could a bad O2 sensor also cause rough idle - i.e. a random shudder at low revs - especially on a cold night when the car has warmed up? Or would that be more likely one of the other parts you mention? How likely is a "bad injector" to be able to be fixed by simply using a fuel addative when I next fill up to clean them? Or does one really have to remove each one and attempt to clean with CRC contact spray? I am hoping it is just the O2 sensor but at this rate it appears I could replace a fair number of parts one by one before fixing the issue... Also could a clogged fuel filter do this? (remember though that the shudder only occurs at low revs or simply is just not noticable when reving above 1200 RPM... Still need to know from anyone who owns a R34 - does the R33 O2 sensor fit????

hahaha oops yeah - oil cap was what I meant to type... and it wont let me edit the original post anymore ) Auto - triptronic plus the controls on the steering wheel. Air filter panel is like new! To clean the injectors and the AAC as well as having the timing checked I would need to take her to a mechanic. Which I very well might need to do. Thanks for the suggestion (more things that might be wrong to add to the list... great ) May also need to work out how to check engine error codes on the R34 - seems easy enough on the R33... But in the mean time - can anyone answer the O2 sensor question?

I have asked this in another thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ro...Ne-t223543.html - but does the NGK O2 sensor for the R33 fit the R34 RB25DET Neo engines? appears it might but no one has 100% confirmed this in this thread... Also could the air flow sensor also cause rough idle and high fuel consumption or is this purely the O2 sensor failure that causes this? I have changed the Spark plugs already and the oil...

Nobody? Is there a thread some where covering this already - specifically for the R34 neo engines? I could not find it? Only for the R32 and R33 and a few people asking about the R34 but no specific answers... come on - there has to be a few people on here that know - the R34's have been around for 10 years now!! Next question - could this be the Air flow meter that is causing this? Either way - if anyone has an R34 and has changed the O2 sensor can you please tell me if the R33 O2 sensor fits and works? i.e. part number OZA395-E2

Just bought myself a V35 coupe - might have to get this kit now!!

Just checked out the NGK website - seems they only support up to the R33 for O2 sensors? is that correct? i.e. part number OZA395-E2 Is this part compatible with the R34 NEO engine?

Hello all, Looking for some answers I have noticed for the last few months that my car when at idle gets rather randomly rough - like it is miss firing... it will simply idle normally then the car will shudder. Initially I thought it was simply related to a loose tube / or pipe that comes from the top of the engine (just to the left of the petrol cap and up a bit on the left side of the engine when the plastic cover is removed). When I fixed this the rough idle went away for a short period (as did my oil leak that Unley Nissan wanted to charge me $120 for various Diff and engine gaskets along with 8 hours worth of labour @ $110/h to fix!). But it came back - seems once the engine has warmed up - but the outside temperature is cold - that the idle gets worse! I have also noticed my car back firing a few times... so... After speaking to random people at work, I have changed my oil and oil filter (needed to be done anyway - used Shell Ultra synthetic 5W-40W). Then I changed my spark plugs (Car has only done 74,000km and I discovered that I had NGK platinum plugs installed in the car - so probably did not really need to do this...) I installed the NGK Iridium plugs (saved about $27) Motortraders have them for $17.60 inc or the platinum ones for $22 inc each. Problem still seems to occur... Which pissed me off as it took a long time to pull my engine apart to install the plugs - nothing like my old Celica... These NEO engines take a lot of work to pull apart! I also have pretty high fuel consumption - my 60L tank gets me about 300 to 330km city driving and high 3's for freeway. I had thought this was more due to the cars weight mixed with it being turbo and AWD... but when your car uses more than a V8 you kind of get worried. 18.5L / 100k or around 6km / Ltr Anyway - what do you guys suggest I try next? O2 sensor? Temperature sensor? And where to buy and how to install? Additional info - the car is bog standard - no PSI increases, nor any pod filter - but it does have a HKS super seqential BOV, and a large exhaust, along with a turbo gauge - no leaks... So O2? http://www.ngkspark.com.au/tech_index.htm?...nsors_index.htm MotorTraders in SA are the official NGK distributors... so along with spark plugs I may be able to get an O2 cheap from them as well...

Corrected first post - stuffed up on wheel type due to J-spec originally listing them as the wrong type: This is the right Rim: 18" Manaray Sport Vertec VR5 Gold + polished Chrome alloy wheels with Bridgestone Potenza GII tires. As these are a Jap Rim - any idea how much these are worth?