cogs

what size gauge is cup for and is it autometer brand cup?

Did you go to the second page? http://www.turboclub.com/turbocars/nissan/...4_InjectUp2.htm

wtf! people randomly set cars on fire now? since when? *crawls out from rock* that's savage! those pics are hard to look at

^^ LOL @ Jon!

Have you tried GRP AUTOMOTIVE in Brendale? http://www.grpautomotive.com.au/ I know the owner of the VL in 'Street Cars' section, they seem to do good work. According to their site they do "AFTERMARKET ENGINE MANAGEMENT TUNING ( MicroTech, Haltec, Power FC, Hondata, Wolf 3D, EMS and Link)"

If you are actually talking about a breather filter (and not an air/pod filter), see this thread.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=155382 If you need anymore info PM Jazza08 (he's in that thread), he's a nice guy and will be able to help you answer any questions you may still have.

RB25 = side feed. RB20det = Top feed high impedance injectors. Stock is 270cc.

Splitfire coil packs brand new $545 (Price includes Australia wide delivery) at Sliding Performance http://www.slidingperformance.com/catalog/...products_id=295 or possibly $515 delivered from same place http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=splitfire as for injectors depends if you want brand name or just use S5 rx7 550cc injectors or something Brand new injectors from Sliding Performance http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=248832 Have you checked the for sale section on this site?

Doubt it's a typo as it's on carsales for $7400 too (or are carsales and carpoint related somehow?)

hey josh, thanks mate but I went down this afternoon and swapped it for one with bigger terminals. hehe its funny that they gave you the one with big terminals when you needed small and I got one with small but I needed big. So stock GTST battery must come with small terminals but mine must've been changed to a big terminal battery somewhere along the line.

Um what are your tyres like? When I bought my old R33 the tyres that were on it were 'feathered' which caused the steering wheel to vibrate quite bad at speeds above 80km/h or so (felt normal at 60km/h). I dont know much about it but basically the tyres wear unevenly (due to misalignment) and you cant balance them to fix the problem, so although they still had good tread I had to get new tyres which fixed the problem (and an alignment to stop it happening again). Just something to check. Good luck.

Thanks Duncan, much appreciated

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=o2+sensor Could message members who have used EL falcon 02 sensor http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...mp;hl=o2+sensor "go to repco or autobarn and get them to look it up in the NGK book. i know they have a listing for R32 and R33 gts-t (i bought one for my r33 gts-t)" hope that helps

In my r32 gtst speedo bounces around at speeds below about 40km/h?? EDIT: Should note car has been converted to manual from auto 2 owners ago.

hey guys, I got a new battery for my r32 gtst today its a Century NS40ZL which is the model it had in the book (although it had same model for all imported skylines) but I got it home and realised terminals were opposite way around but I fixed that problem by turning the battery around other way and leads just reached but the bigger problem was the fact the terminals are TINY! My battery clamps are too big for them (and I just bought new clamps and I dont think there were any smaller ones). So I'm going to exchange it tomorrow. If any R32 owners have Century batteries I'd like to know what model you have please? Thanks!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=128015

I had an R33 GTS-4 and I think people on here told me suspension was same as GTST at front and same as GTR at rear (or other way around), where as R33 GTS can just use GTST suspension front and back I believe. But of course R34 could be different.

CAR: R32 GTST (RB20DET) At the moment my car has a coolant leak so I don't drive it but I've been kicking it over for 5-10mins every few days. I've been having some problems with the battery, the negative terminal seems to have corroded a fair bit and was hard getting good connection but is firmly on at the moment and should be getting a good connection. My car wouldnt start the other day so my mate used jumper cables to get mine going off his battery and after a while the hicas and battery light (I think) went off (hicas seems to come on whenever the battery's been playing up and power steer hasn't worked until hicas light goes off). It was good for a few days that I started then one day it kicked over fine but after a few mins the revs started dropping, I stabbed the accelerator a bit to see if they'd kick back up but they came down again and car stalled and then wouldnt start again. Today I tried starting it and still wont start. I think before you could hear it trying to start a little but now just seems like it goes 'CLICK' when you turn the key and thats it? Also a new warning light has come on, appears to be for exhaust temp ( =*=). What does this light mean and why would it have come on? I also had a look at the fuel pressure gauge on my FPR and it was on 0psi even after pump had primed. Should the gauge show pressure once car is on and pump primed or not till car is actually started? Fuel light isn't on but level is low, could maybe be out of fuel do you think? But wouldn't it still try and start (ie I'd hear a br-rr-rr noise? lol) Also has aftermarket in-tank fuel pump (Walbro) in case that matters. If you guys dont think its anything else and is probably the battery then I'll go get a new one and see if that fixes it. Thanks in advance!

hey buddy, not sure if you wanted a black wing as well or if you were just using the word wing to describe the side mirrors so I just did one with a black wing and one white.

Hey everyone, I'm looking for a forward-facing inlet manifold/plenum for an RB20DET. Please PM me or reply to this thread if you have one for sale or have any advice. Thanks. -cogs

Hey everyone, I'm after one of those black gauge holders you often see used with Greddy gauges. They are not your typical gauge cup and I'm not talking about the Greddy pillar pod gauge holders. I will try and find a pic. If anyone has one they want to sell or knows where I could buy one it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

that doesn't tell him if the bottom end was taken from a turbo or NA engine though now does it..

hey mate, thanks for your reply! Much appreciated.

As I said, top vac line in pic runs to BOV (aftermarket one running off gutted out factory one). THanks for your replies everyone, should I try and hook it back up to the charcoal cannister. Will it be effecting anything apart from emissions?

Hey everyone, there's a switch in my car that the previous owner said was for boost (he showed me a loose red wire in the engine bay, he said I just had to put a solenoid in). I was curious so I tested out the wire but it wasn't getting any current. I decided to remove the dash and see where the wires from the switch went and it appears that one wire does go to the engine bay (the wire he showed me) but the other wire is spliced into the head unit wiring?? It doesn't make sense to me? Surely one wire has to be an earth? It's a simple ON/OFF switch with provisions for two wires to be attached at each end. I'm just wondering what the hell the switch would've been used for??