GTS4dood

ok im no expert but i got the V-spl fitted a few months ago. Q3) yes, there is a nice handy hole left there to put a cold air feed through. Q4)These kits are very easy to install. easier than the hybrids as there is no trimming involed at all. Also i didnt notice a huge increase in power. But i had just got a new exhaust put on and was stil getting used to that. i didnt pre/post dyno or anything. They are an extremelly well made unit though.

Upgraded brakes and discs might be a good investment to keep this power under control. I know that would be something id be looking at. either GTR brakes or even 300zx brakes i hear work nicely. this could make it that little bit cheaper aswell

U can also just pull the fuse under the sterring wheel in the fuse box and bobs ur uncle and your in rear wheel.If you've got it then u might aswell use it. ive got a switch fitted so if at the track i can launch in 4WD but most other places its in RWD for if i wanna have a little slide.

most tuners are telling me to get a seperate boost controller i.e. AVC-R. im almost being warned off the boost controller kits that apexi make as an add-on for the power fc. why would this be as ive had ppl on this thread say that they are fine?

OK, there seems to be a fair few ppl out there that have the Power FC installed. Ive read a FAQ on here that the avg price for tuning is 300-500. im gettin quoted from 450-700. I live in newcastle. so im willing to go to sydney for example to get it tuned if someone can recommend a quality tuner at a good price. a 4wd dyno would be good too. but i can switch it to RWD. would there be much of a difference in the overall tuning???

Hi Guys, Ive purchased the AP engineering Power FC for my R32 and was wondering if anyone could recommend any quality tuners. I live in Newcastle but am willing to drive if it will be worth it. i only have basic mods, its not a full blown race car. e.g. GREDDY FMIC, 3" turbo back zorst, POD filter, any help is greatly appreciated. especially if anyone has some comparisons between Tuners. CHEERS!

Cheers! thats pretty clear. i think that electric autometer one can stay in the shop. thats ridiculous. i also saw one that was liquid filled? whats the go with that. it sold for $60 on ebay. i thought that sounded like a sweet price.

i know that there is a fuse under the bonnet for the 4WD. its marked on the case : ANTI/4WD/PTC. im not sure if anyone else has hooked up their switch to this but i have ran it through the switch under my dash. i tried to simply pull that switch under bonnet but the car wouldnt start when i did that. ive included pics as to what i have done.and also a picture that is quite possibly the greatest drawing since mona lisa. its literally as simple as my sh1tty diagram and it works perfectly. P.S. any positive feedback on the drawing is appreciated. hehe.

I think i might have fixed it. it didnt do it all this morning driving to work. last night i tried to fix up the bubble and its pretty well gone. think it might be slightly stretched. i spose we'll see over the next few days.

I was wondering wheather the R32 GTS-4 would have the same rear diff as the R32 GTS-t's. reason being that i have a switch to go to 4WD or RWD. Because of the torque split i thought that nissan may have put in 2 diff's that are half the strength of the 1 GTS-t rear diff as the force is distributed and to save on overall car weight. If this is the case then having the switch to RWD could potentially be doing damage to the rear diff as it is taking the full force. does anyone know?

Ive seen these on group buys for around the $1000 mark. everywere else they are an extra few hundred. Really keen to get this ASAP for around the grand mark.

Should i assume that uve done engine work to be running 20PSI?? that sounds like pain for stock internals. I would only look to have 2 boost settings if i set this up. id prob want 9PSI as low boost and 12PSI for high. i'd be too worried about doing damage if i went higher than 12.

On idle it is fine. it doesnt hunt at all, and sits on about 700RPM roughly. its only while driving when throwing it out of gear into neutral that the revs drop to nothing and sometimes stalls.

i dont think ive been blowing smoke. i did actually notice yesterday that the 1st rubber hose coming off the cooler on the passenger side had a bubble in between the metal fasteners were the pipes would meet. this might be the problem.i could have a leak there. i'll play around after work tmoz and get back with the results.

hey bobyYoo, on a totally unrelated topic i noticed in the pics that u have your BOV welded onto the crossover pipe. i had this done aswell when i first got my BOV. then i got my cooler and had to move it to where the stock one was. There was a massive improvement in the sound. but unless your getting a cooler then you'll need something to block up a bloody big hole.

i put my BOV on the first week i got the car. its ran perfect for the last 12months. it wouldnt be the BOV. it happened staright after getting the cooler fitted

thanks for the replies guys. i'll try running the power cable away from RCA's first as i ran them together. then if that doesnt work then i spose its trial and error.

I've had a FMIC fitted in the last few weeks and since i did, ive been having trouble with very low rev drops, and sometimes stalling. its mainly when i put it into neutral coming up to intersections, or just with the clutch in coming up to my drive way. Ive searched a heap of possible causes for it but my car ran perfect before this and it seems like too much of a coincidence to me. Any suggestions??

I bought a GREDDY FMIC kit for my R32 just a few weeks ago. i didnt need to cut the fan at all. i think with the hybrids for example it actually tells u in the install instructions to cut the fan to fit the pipe.Though my bonnett has slightly flattened about 10cm of the top of the pipe. barely noticeable but that might be the solution. u need a different crossover pipe that sits higher in the engine bay rather than lower. otherwise get used to the noise.

I can see how the novelty of being able to dial up boost would ware off very quickly. This would also save me $$ to spend on other things. Say i buy the PFC without the boost solenoid then tune it to a "safe" PSI. What would be a "safe" level for my car as i have done no engine work. only FMIC, ZORST, POD FILTER. I've found 12PSI to be the most common answer but then occasionaly 14-15. Does anyone else with similar mods run the higher boost???

I need one for an R32 GTS-4 ASAP. it has to be an AP engineering one though for my model. Has anyone seen these for a similar price, around the $1000 mark

I just installed an amp into my little bro's car and when the ignition is on ACC it works fine but when the car is ON there is a wierd interferance noise that constantly comes from the speakers. What is this?

Ideally i want to be able to dial up the boost from inside the car. If i was to buy an adjustable boost controller and then later add the PowerFC, i wouldnt be able to use the hand controller for it?? unless is was the apexi boost solenoid that i put on initially??

Cheers for the replies guys. Im going with the PFC and i'll hopefully get the solenoid at the same time. Im keen to see what this thing can do.

I thought that i would be able to dial up the boost from in the car with just the Power FC. Im assuming that the Apexi AVC-R boost controller allows this option on its own but nothing else. I'll check out some prices on the add-on. I was hoping to have it all for around the $1100 mark roughly. If i was to do no more mods to the car after this would the PFC stil be the better way to go? Would the extras stil be a benefit to me?