thedriver

Thanks y'all for the replies. I dropped in to the suspension shop today and gave them the reports from the two Jax stores. They rechecked my alignment and got completely different settings. It seems that the inner ball joint on the lower control arm needs replacing. It rocks ever so slightly when the wheel is turned. Would this be consistent with inconsistent alignment figures? Any thoughts on cost to replace?

Thanks An70n, I don't have the tyres anymore, I've already had to replace them. I can check with the tyre shop though and see if they still have them; they were going to hold them for the Falken rep to check them out. I didn't quite understand your last comment.

Thanks guys, The first place I went to was a suspension specialist shop. That's all they do and they are apparently well regarded in Canberra. They killed my first set of tyres in 6000km and told me to keep an eye on it. I don't know wo to believe anymore.

Hey all, I could really use your input on this. I'm not only pissed off about the tyres but also concerned about the settings. Who do I trust with the alignment (I can't keep buying tyres)?

Hi all, I've had an interesting but overwhelmingly confusing day. First up I have to correct a statement in my first post: I stated I had +18 degrees of toe to start with. Well I actually had +18 degrees of total toe; each wheel was about +9 degrees toe (see attached "1 Suspension shop - Original.JPG"). So, on with the story... I saw the suspension shop this morning: They rechecked the alignment and adjusted it a little (see attached "2 Suspension Shop - Adjusted today.jpg") - apparently it was still pretty good and they still couldn't see any reason why this had happened. They did suggest the ball joint for my control arms may need replacing but had no evidence it was so. They suggested I get new tyres and go back to them in a week or two to have it rechecked. So off to Jax to buy two new tyres and I ask them to check the wheel alignment. They tell me the left is +2 and the right is +10. Very different to the suspension shop. And they apparently correct it and set them both to 0 degrees (see attached "3 Jax adjusted after new wheels.jpg"). I decide a need another opinion. So I head to another Jax store in town and get them to give me a report (no adjustment) on the wheel alignment. They tell me the front wheels are -1.5 and -2 degrees of toe (see attached "4 Jax report of alignment settings.jpg"). So now I've seen three different places and have three different reports on the toe adjustment. Do you have any advice on who I should believe and what I should do next? Should I get another opinion? Should I go back to the suspension shop with these reports and ask them to cough up for my tyres? Or should I wait a week or two and then go back to them and see what they say when they recheck them? THANKS! EDIT: I really need some advice on this - Thanks.

Thanks for your replies and input everyone. My main concern is I've only done 6000kms and they are well past the tyre wear indicators. That's not by any means normal wear and tear and I have been driving sedately. I haven't pushed it at all compared to the way I used to drive. And I really don't think I should be coughing up another $700+. I believe the suspension shop is well respected in Canberra and they did give me a before and after report for the work; I'll dig it up tomorrow. I'm going back to them tomorrow morning so I'll get some more info from them then too. The castor rods were replaced when I damaged one sometime ago. The suspension shop shortened them - I believe they were machined and the thread was extended to allow for more adjustment. Another opinion is a good idea - I'll try and do that tomorrow too. RazoR33 - however unlikely I think it is, that's one of the things the suspension shop suggested. I just can't believe that about 300kms would stuff so drastically shorten the life of the tyres. I also emailed Falken Australia to see what they have to say. Maybe they can even give me a set at cost price. Thanks again all. I'll update you tomorrow. Tee

It's primarily the outside of each tyre that is bald, but they have definitely worn all over. Should I be talking to the place I bought the tyres from?

Hi, I recently had new tyres put on all four rims of my 99 Stagea RS4S (19" Falken FK452 running at 40psi). At the time, the tyre shop (Jax) was unable to do a four wheel alignment because my castor rods didn't allow enough adjustment. So five days later I saw a suspension shop which modified my castor rods and did an all wheel alignment. I had a toe of about +18 degrees on both front wheels before the alignment that they reduced to about +1.5 degrees. [EDIT: Total toe was +18 degrees. Each wheel was approximately +9 degrees - see report in my post below] I've since driven 6000kms in two months and both my front tyres now need replacing. They have worn past the tyre wear indicators on the outside of each tyre. My rear tyres are fine, they look like near new tyres. My last set of tyres lasted over 25,000kms of hard driving and didn't show the same wear pattern. I went back to the suspension shop and asked them about the wear; they couldn't find any problems and suggested that because I had done five days of driving (about 300km) with the toe at +18 degrees the wear in the tyres continued after the alignment. They told me to keep an eye on it for the next couple of weeks and maybe swap the front and rear wheels. I didn't see the point in swapping the front and rear tyres; the fronts were already bald. Two weeks have passed and the wear is still continuing. I'd like to know what your thoughts are on why this might have happened? Also, who do you think should cough up the cash for two new tyres? Thanks, Tee

Running Advanti Racing 'Karla" wheels: Wheels: 19x8 +35 Tyres: 245/35 R19 Hankook K104 They are being replaced (due to a fault) with Enkei RP03 model which should fill the guards a little more, I think.

So now I'm confused AlexCim originally said: S2 High beams are HB3 60W Low beams are H1 55W Parkers are D2R 35W Fog lights are unknown at this stage But then chook said the parkers are a G4 Wedge and the main bulbs (lo or hi beam) are D2R. The Stagea lo beams are dissapointing to say the least, the fogs near useless and I'm in need of an upgrade of some sort. I'm afraid I'll have to remove my front bar just to check and with my lack of expertise, I'm sure I'll damage something. Can anyone confirm which is correct? SK, did you end up doing anything with your lights? What did you do and how has it turned out?

I'm having real trouble finding a replacement parker globe for my S2 with the afforementioned D2R fitment. The only info I can seem to find about D2R fitments is that they are normally on HID bulbs and I wouldn't have thought a parker would be a HID. Has anyone else had to replace their parkers on a S2, and where have you bought your bulbs? I haven't been able to get them anywhere.

Really - so the GTR R34 uses the same RB26 engine as the R33 and R32? Oh well, so I could mate a 6 speed R34 GTR gearbox to the R33 GTR RB26?

I have a S2 Dayz edition RS4S (manual) in white.

My only mods to my manual S2 so far are 19" wheels and thin rubber so I also have a pretty much blank canvas from which I would like to (in order): Fix SatNav/TV and install DVD/MP3 player head unit Custom plates SK's suspension (the works) Convert to fully injected LPG (not dual fuel) with comformable LPG tanks (including computer) Cold air intake, Pod filter and larger intake piping Mandrel bent hi flow exhaust Freeway Dolphin Front Grille, EyeLiners and Wheel Arch Flares (already on order) Brake upgrade Intercooler upgrade Scissor lift doors Ultimately I would like to throw in the NEO RB26DETT and 6 speed from the R34GTR - don't know if this is possible, but it's a dream at the moment. Oh yeah, and then sell it for another car...

Yeah would be very interested in SatNav and preferably digital TV (Standard Definition). With the SatNav I would also be interested to know what system it would be based on? What maps would you use with it and how would you load the maps? Given the Xanavi is touch screen, would the satnav component work through the screen? Etc etc? Would this guy also be able to flash the ROM's so we could convert them to English? Would also like to be able to install a DVD Audio/Video head unit in place of the current HU (underneath the Xanavi display) and have it play DVD's to the screen. I don't know if this is possible as I haven't pulled out the Xanavi to see if it has a video input but it would be great. Cheers Stage Fright!!

Stage Fright - I would be very interested to know who it is doing the work and how much they charge. Digital TV is going to be best for the Xanavi screen because of the widescreen format.

I'm not really sure what you are proposing.

And just in case you don't subscribe, this was the text from Geoff at Prestige: To be honest though, who wants to wait 5-8 years? I better start saving now!!!

Thanks AlexCim - here it is for anyone else that might be looking for an atessa controller

Thanks dosv. That wasn't them, they were a much cheaper option. I'll look into those though. Anyone else remember the thread? I'm struggling to find it.

Hi, I know there is a thread here somewhere but I just can't find it. Someone was doing a group buy or had found a link or something to an atessa controller that would allow you to dial in more torque to the front wheels when the atessa activated. It was noted that this made a big difference in the wet for front wheel traction. Help me find this please.

KamikazeR33 - I was thinking along the same lines. My A4 had metal plates and I loved them. Satanic - Count me in for an interested party. I'm sure it will add some class.

I've done plenty of driving in my A4 Quattro in the snow - the grip in that was pretty amazing, but the Stagea is much heavier and the manual doesn't seem to be full time AWD. The manual also doesn't have the convenience of the variable road surface selector that the auto has. As it turns out, I'm probably buying a set of snow tyres so that should give a massive increase in grip.

Hi all, Just wondering how your Stagea handles in the Snow (preferably manual). Has anyone done much driving above the snowline in their Stagea? How does it handle? Did you need chains? Any other problems? Cheers.

Just thought I revive this thread and see if Tangles had made any progess. I think these would be a sweeeeeeet addition to the stagea!