cme33

Try to stay away from the first diesel x5's.... Nothing wrong with them but lots of turbo lag and engine's kinda noisy for a diesel. If you don't mind those things then go for it! They have lots of torque... the latest (05> New engine) has more power, less lag! I would say they would almost keep up with the 4.4 V8. The x5 family are actually the ones with the least problems from the bmw range. Oh yeah.... If you ever go and test one and notice slow crank when first started it's not the batt... it's the starter motor. Make sure it's been replace only if it has that problem... only 50% of the ones i've worked on have had that problem and yes it should be covered by warranty if it's within 2-3year old!

x5??? you mean BMW x5???? I can tell you anything you need to know on bmw's and specially on x5's as i work on bmw's for a living! I just wish i had the money to afford one! that'll be a nice upgrade if you do go down that track!

I'm looking for a 4 door turbo (gtt). Don't care if it's manual or auto. What do the 3 gauges read? Are they your cars on the pics? Sweet rides! If you don't mind me asking... how much did you pay for your 4 door? and what have you done to it? i notice the body kit, did that come with the car?

Anything higher than 13.0v is ok and no higher than 14.3v. It all depends on where have you taken the power sorce from. my turbo timer(Apexi also reads 13.8 (most of the times) but my Apexi rev/speed meter reads .2v lower then the turbo timer. It also goes lower when you have other accesories in use. Ala... fog lights, air con, windows going up/down.

they are easy as!! take about 5mins. You've just gotta have small hands!

my prob only came when i tried to turn the boost up, i freaked out thinking it was something else i took the bleed valve out and the problems have never gone. i tried the tape trick and it lasted for about 6 months. It ran like a dream, i even refitted the bleed valve and turned the boost up (12psi) but in the last few months it came back. It does it worse when i have a full car with people or going up hills under heavy load (right foot to the metal) even by myself. I've tried re-taping them but it's no use. I have been able to see very fine... hair line cracks on a few coils and you can notice also by the dark/grey marks aound them where the spark's been eartheing out. I've once again removed the bleed valve and back to standard boost i seems to go ok, still does it every once in a while... It's a coil problem and will need to solve it with new ones (splitfire) but be aware that series 1 are different to 2 and it's my bad luck that series 2 are harder to find! Anyone know how much for a set for series 2?

Thanks for all the help guys!! just one last thing.... do you know how much aprox will all this cost? and is it worth it? I prob woudln't care so much about the nav/gps but i wouldn't mind having the tv/video functions to work. i don't want to buy a car with the special features that don't work! If i do buy the car (i live in brisbane) where should i take it for the work to be done???

Does anyone know if there are any chip or mods to turn the r34 standard tv and gps (on top of the dash) into australian settings???? Any help would be great as i'm thinking of upgrading from 33 to 34!!!

If you can get your hands on a stetescope. (kinda what docs use to listen) you'll be able to pin point the noise. Approx $15 from Autobarn... supercheap... repco ect. I've got a similar noise to what your saying and i found it's my A/C compressor bearing. It only does it between 1,500 and 2,000 RPM. It's annoying but i'd rather wait till it gets worse and buy a new one, my A/C still works fine! Or another poss. maybe check the tension on all your belts and timing belt.

Don't know if anyone has tried this.... It's a nissan injector cleaner. It cost around $7 and can be bought from any nissan dealer. It's a small bottle that you add into your fuel tank when filling. Try to have least amount of fuel left in the tank before use. Then add the full bottle and just fill up! (must fill to full capacity!) I've been using it ever since i bought my car (R33 GTS-T series 2) 1 year ago. I use 1 bottle every 5,000km approx and the results are amazing!!! I get 40km more from a tank when driven normally (heavy right foot sometimes) and about 50km or more on the highway! Well worth the money considering petrol prices just won't go down!!! Recommended only every service!

There's also a "idler" pulley that runs with the timing belt. It's suggested that you replace it with a new one when doing a belt, these are expensive so if you just give it a spin and cannot hear any noisy bearings or stiffness on the pulley then it'll last another go!!!

I've done the timing belt myself, Bought it genuine from nissan. It's actually cheaper than all other after market crap! It's a really thick belt, so if you think you'll brake it or something it's user fault. They are ment to last for 100,000km so i'm sure it'll do the job! The nissan gen belt it's also alot easier to use as it comes with the marks for the cam shafts sprokets and crankshaft. So you CANNOT get it wrong! If you pull the radiator out ( couple of bolts for the brakets and 2 hose clamps takes just minutes ) you'll have more room to play with! At the same time i did a thermostat (also gen and very cheap) and engine coolant flush. All up it took me 1 hour. I was using air tools though. Very EASY

High flowing your turbo will be good, but i suggest you replace it and get a ball bearing turbo, you'll save a bit of $$$ and you can get bolt on turbos for your manifold. Try horspowerinabox.com

It's on the outside of the gearbox, it should have 2 wires going to it, you can just disconnect it and using a spaner you'll be able to get it out. Be carefull that oil may spil out, it shouldn't! The lights behind the climate control do turn on with your lights on. Don't know if you can change the bulbs as it's a complete unit, maybe if you really want to have lights there, pull it out and send it to a electrician! or once again for a cheap 5 finger discount you can get yourself another from the wreckers. Might be i little hard to hide though!!!!

It all depends if you're taking the calipers out from the car to paint them. If not then i suggest you get a can of brake cleaner, spray them and let it soak, get a old spunge with soap, and wash them. let them dry. Then get a can of brake caliper paint (it's a high temp paint) or anything over 500'C apply first coat and by the time you've gone around to do all, the first one should be ready for the second coat. Apply as many as you can, then get a can of clear paint, doesn't have to be high temp, and give it as many coats as possible. if you have a heater gun try heating them up after every coat. Don't get too close as it will burn the fresh paint. Let it sit as long as possible. The paint will stay fresh till the car is driven so try not to touch them. Oh yeah!!! Don't forget to tape up your discs before you paint!!!! This should take about 1-2 hours! But they will look great and i can almost swear that the paint will not peal and you can wash them as many times as you want!

Sounds like it will be your reverse light switch on the gearbox. Eazy to find but i wouln't know how much they are! Just go the wrekers and get one for 5 finger disconunt!!!

I had my car off the road for 2 weeks, it was little hard to start cause of the battery (cranked longer than usual had to try twice), it also had a bad missfire for the first minute or so but i just let it idle for a while and it was back to normal. I guess it would have been cause of the fuel needed to build up pressure through the lines.But yeah, do disconnect your batt before you go, change the oil and fuel and CHECK YOUR TYRE PRESSURES when you do come back!