drifto

Unbelievable, I'm glad people are enjoying my pictures, how about someone actually ask a question or two and get this ball rolling. Has any one driven a 32 GTS on semi slicks with dyno tuned Bilstein coil overs? What about 200kw at the wheels on 18psi that the car produce all day on a circuit without over heating or melting a piston ring. When i first took this car to the track it was far from standard yet it distroyed standard components like, radiator, brakes, sub frame mounts. Those items plus many more have all been replaced with race proven products that not only increase performance but also reliabilty. Check out the attached file after the pictures to see a list of upgraded components. Theres many cars out there and some look prettier than this one, but if you want race car performance in a car you can drive every day then please get in contact with me. Cheers

This car has been exstensively modified by proffessionals for increased performance and reliabilty. Upgraded components include -GTR wheels -GTR intercooler and fuel pump -3 core copper radiator and oil cooler -Bilstein coil overs and cusco strut braces -5 puck ceramic buttton clutch -Nardi steering wheel and Velo racing seat -This is a fully optioned car with luxury features such as climate control, velour trim, electric sunroof, remote central locking and ABS. For more information on the cars developement, history or modifications please call Nick on 0420 315 416. You will not appreciate the time and money invested into this car until you drive it. Please enjoy the pics below. [attachmen =83106:attachment] Skyline_upgrades.doc

Hi mate, i may be interested in the diff, need to check a few things first like if it really does bolt straight into a 32, is it stronger than a 33's and what the ratio is. Also if you could give me some idea of how it was runnning for eg. back lash, whinning or vibrations etc. I'll PM you with phone number so i can get yours. Ta, Drifto

Hi Comrades, Does anyone know where to download a wiring schematic diagram for an R32 GTS. Alternatlivey does anyone know how the powe steering system adjusts it's assistance pressure in accordance to road speed? I think i cut a wire that used to do this as i now have full light steering at all speeds but occasionally it switches instantly to heavy and under acceleration in a corner will pulse between the two levels. (very scary feeling) Hoping that someone may have experienced a similar issue and knows the cure. P.S. I was removing an aftermarket VDO cruise control system.

Been a while but i'm back. Suspension completely renewed as follows: Front springs 500lb Rear springs 400lb Front sway bar 27mm Rear sway bar 22mm The bilsteins were completely rebuilt and dynoed with some drastic changes to the valving rates especially the rear where i've gone from a 250lb spring to 400lb On the road it's amazing, obviously very stiff but the car stays balanced even over large bumps and rough surfaces. The shocks are doing a great job of keeping the tyres in contact with the road. I tested it pretty hard on some well known rough and twisty roads down my neck of the woods and it's like a new car. Drift is awsome too with so much more precision and predictability available. The car doesn't pitch under heavy breaking like it used too keeping the arse on the ground and the weight transfer to the front on corner entry is reduced. It is of course a little hard to get good power down out of slow corners but that's all gone to shit now any way since i destroyed my pinion in the Kaaz diff and slotted the stock viscous job back in. Because of the diff i have not visited the track since and missed round three at Wakefield. Will update track times and characteristics soon when the diffs fixed.

My rb20 has been running around for over 3 years with daily driving seing over 18psi shoved into it at up to 8500rpm regulary. It has also done alot of track days and drift. With replacement engine installed for around 1k who cares how long it lasts.

Hey Sydney Kid, I was watching your race at Wakefeild the other day. Is your 32 a GTS or GTR as they have it? I would think the GTR settings are heaps different to what would be required for a rear drive RB20 powered 225/50 16's shod car of around 150kg less????? Anyway, nice driving and make sure you keep beating the commodores.

Feedback from Oran Park 17th April I actually only changed the rear toe settings from 2mm out to 2mm in. I left the camber at neg 2.25 because changing two things at once will not give a clear indication of what effects those changes have. The car was far more ontrollable on turn in without the immediate flicking out of the tail into over steer that i was battling at EC. I could get much more drive out of the corners with the rear staying nice and tight. I still suffer a fair bit from wheel spin on corner exits but it was heaps easier to control with these settings. Bascically the car wouldn't try and swap ends but rather stepped out slightly that i could control and adjust with steering and throttle quite easily. The day was once again cut short after only 15 laps with dissintergrated front brake pads and the rears had done so much work they went throught to the backing plate. In the last session i entered most hard braking corners already in a slide sometimes with the rear wheel locked and engined stalled. Felt like driving a big sloppy go kart. Best lap for the day was on lap 9 with a 1min 23.9. Played with tire pressure a bit too. 1st session went out with 34 all round. Came in at 40 Took about 1 lap to come on Bled down to 32 hot Whent out again and it took till the third lap to come good, never got more readings due to the braking issues. Stayed tuned

You need to do some mods to these eccentric bushes to make them adjustable. It might be a little hard to explain over the forum. Using a drill press you put two holes through the thickest side of the metal cores that runs through the bush. You insert little steel dowels into these holes so they only come through the inside about 2-3mm. But you need to push them slightly past the outside of the core to give the weld something to stick to. Hit it with some weld. Next you take your bolts from these bushes and using a drill press again you gradually run a channel throught the thread of the bolt at leasst 3mm deeep and all the way to the end of the thread. When done the bolt shold slide easily inside the tube with the dowels locking them into position. The tube once cleaned up on the outside can be pressed back into the bush not forgetting a heap of grease. Once in the car you can adjust camber settings by simply turning the bolt and tightening it into position. This is what i have done to all my upper control arm bushes that had the eccentric camber kits in them. Combined on the front with the Cusco adjustable upper arms i can get around 4 degrees neg on the front. The back can be adjusted between zero to 3 degrees neg if desired.

Hey Troy, Update my 1st post with a time for Oran Park GP Circuit. 1:23.9 but there's plenty more in her left, this was done with the brakes going to the floor and entering corners with the rear wheel locked half the time. Made the mistake of trial testing some new front pads in developement for a friend. After 15 laps the fronts had disintergrated and the rears after doing all the work went down to the backing plate. Made drifting easier thou!!!

Going in today to adjust rear settings. Taking the camber from -2.25 to around -.5 Changing the toe from 2mm toe out to 2mm toe in. After Oran Park on Sunday, the next thing we'll change is the coils and valving. The current coils are variable rate which i forgot to mention so there gotta go. Next test will be at Wakefield then after that i can do back to back test at Wakefield trying different things like swaybars etc. The plan is to do one mod at a time and record times and feel. I'll keep data on this thread for others.

PM sent

you couls drop something into the bore through the sparkplug hole and find bottom dead center then measure the stroke to top dead centre. Look up this website for the stroke of the two engines and work out which one it is. Or you could take it for a test drive and give it everything it's got, if it doesn't make any power until over 4000rpm but keeps going till close to 8000rpm(mine stops at 8500) then it's an rb20(and it sounds shit hot doin it) If it makes power under 3000rpm and pulls the shute at 6500 whilst sounding like an angry bastard it's probulary an RB25. Hope that help

I has my Kaaz two way rebuilt by this knob in Fyshwick and he put it back togeather wrong with incorrect clearances and preloads etc. The result felt like someone was swinging a sledge hammer under my car when i turned even the slightests corner witth anything less than heavy throttle. Even coasting into a corner in 4th or 5th would get it going. The car dramatically changed direction between on and off throttle two. Since having it rebulit by a decent engineer, it is perfectly smooth when driving around town under normal throttle. If you try and do a hill start and turn at the same time it will carry on a bit until the clutch is fully out. Then it just locks up nicely and skips the inside wheel a bit. Running a decent synthetic oil can help but over time they can loose the correct preload settings and clearances due to normal wear and tear so yours could be half way to were mine was.