drifto

Unbelievable, I'm glad people are enjoying my pictures, how about someone actually ask a question or two and get this ball rolling. Has any one driven a 32 GTS on semi slicks with dyno tuned Bilstein coil overs? What about 200kw at the wheels on 18psi that the car produce all day on a circuit without over heating or melting a piston ring. When i first took this car to the track it was far from standard yet it distroyed standard components like, radiator, brakes, sub frame mounts. Those items plus many more have all been replaced with race proven products that not only increase performance but also reliabilty. Check out the attached file after the pictures to see a list of upgraded components. Theres many cars out there and some look prettier than this one, but if you want race car performance in a car you can drive every day then please get in contact with me. Cheers

This car has been exstensively modified by proffessionals for increased performance and reliabilty. Upgraded components include -GTR wheels -GTR intercooler and fuel pump -3 core copper radiator and oil cooler -Bilstein coil overs and cusco strut braces -5 puck ceramic buttton clutch -Nardi steering wheel and Velo racing seat -This is a fully optioned car with luxury features such as climate control, velour trim, electric sunroof, remote central locking and ABS. For more information on the cars developement, history or modifications please call Nick on 0420 315 416. You will not appreciate the time and money invested into this car until you drive it. Please enjoy the pics below. [attachmen =83106:attachment] Skyline_upgrades.doc

Hi mate, i may be interested in the diff, need to check a few things first like if it really does bolt straight into a 32, is it stronger than a 33's and what the ratio is. Also if you could give me some idea of how it was runnning for eg. back lash, whinning or vibrations etc. I'll PM you with phone number so i can get yours. Ta, Drifto

Hi Comrades, Does anyone know where to download a wiring schematic diagram for an R32 GTS. Alternatlivey does anyone know how the powe steering system adjusts it's assistance pressure in accordance to road speed? I think i cut a wire that used to do this as i now have full light steering at all speeds but occasionally it switches instantly to heavy and under acceleration in a corner will pulse between the two levels. (very scary feeling) Hoping that someone may have experienced a similar issue and knows the cure. P.S. I was removing an aftermarket VDO cruise control system.

Been a while but i'm back. Suspension completely renewed as follows: Front springs 500lb Rear springs 400lb Front sway bar 27mm Rear sway bar 22mm The bilsteins were completely rebuilt and dynoed with some drastic changes to the valving rates especially the rear where i've gone from a 250lb spring to 400lb On the road it's amazing, obviously very stiff but the car stays balanced even over large bumps and rough surfaces. The shocks are doing a great job of keeping the tyres in contact with the road. I tested it pretty hard on some well known rough and twisty roads down my neck of the woods and it's like a new car. Drift is awsome too with so much more precision and predictability available. The car doesn't pitch under heavy breaking like it used too keeping the arse on the ground and the weight transfer to the front on corner entry is reduced. It is of course a little hard to get good power down out of slow corners but that's all gone to shit now any way since i destroyed my pinion in the Kaaz diff and slotted the stock viscous job back in. Because of the diff i have not visited the track since and missed round three at Wakefield. Will update track times and characteristics soon when the diffs fixed.

My rb20 has been running around for over 3 years with daily driving seing over 18psi shoved into it at up to 8500rpm regulary. It has also done alot of track days and drift. With replacement engine installed for around 1k who cares how long it lasts.

Hey Sydney Kid, I was watching your race at Wakefeild the other day. Is your 32 a GTS or GTR as they have it? I would think the GTR settings are heaps different to what would be required for a rear drive RB20 powered 225/50 16's shod car of around 150kg less????? Anyway, nice driving and make sure you keep beating the commodores.

Feedback from Oran Park 17th April I actually only changed the rear toe settings from 2mm out to 2mm in. I left the camber at neg 2.25 because changing two things at once will not give a clear indication of what effects those changes have. The car was far more ontrollable on turn in without the immediate flicking out of the tail into over steer that i was battling at EC. I could get much more drive out of the corners with the rear staying nice and tight. I still suffer a fair bit from wheel spin on corner exits but it was heaps easier to control with these settings. Bascically the car wouldn't try and swap ends but rather stepped out slightly that i could control and adjust with steering and throttle quite easily. The day was once again cut short after only 15 laps with dissintergrated front brake pads and the rears had done so much work they went throught to the backing plate. In the last session i entered most hard braking corners already in a slide sometimes with the rear wheel locked and engined stalled. Felt like driving a big sloppy go kart. Best lap for the day was on lap 9 with a 1min 23.9. Played with tire pressure a bit too. 1st session went out with 34 all round. Came in at 40 Took about 1 lap to come on Bled down to 32 hot Whent out again and it took till the third lap to come good, never got more readings due to the braking issues. Stayed tuned

You need to do some mods to these eccentric bushes to make them adjustable. It might be a little hard to explain over the forum. Using a drill press you put two holes through the thickest side of the metal cores that runs through the bush. You insert little steel dowels into these holes so they only come through the inside about 2-3mm. But you need to push them slightly past the outside of the core to give the weld something to stick to. Hit it with some weld. Next you take your bolts from these bushes and using a drill press again you gradually run a channel throught the thread of the bolt at leasst 3mm deeep and all the way to the end of the thread. When done the bolt shold slide easily inside the tube with the dowels locking them into position. The tube once cleaned up on the outside can be pressed back into the bush not forgetting a heap of grease. Once in the car you can adjust camber settings by simply turning the bolt and tightening it into position. This is what i have done to all my upper control arm bushes that had the eccentric camber kits in them. Combined on the front with the Cusco adjustable upper arms i can get around 4 degrees neg on the front. The back can be adjusted between zero to 3 degrees neg if desired.

Hey Troy, Update my 1st post with a time for Oran Park GP Circuit. 1:23.9 but there's plenty more in her left, this was done with the brakes going to the floor and entering corners with the rear wheel locked half the time. Made the mistake of trial testing some new front pads in developement for a friend. After 15 laps the fronts had disintergrated and the rears after doing all the work went down to the backing plate. Made drifting easier thou!!!

Going in today to adjust rear settings. Taking the camber from -2.25 to around -.5 Changing the toe from 2mm toe out to 2mm toe in. After Oran Park on Sunday, the next thing we'll change is the coils and valving. The current coils are variable rate which i forgot to mention so there gotta go. Next test will be at Wakefield then after that i can do back to back test at Wakefield trying different things like swaybars etc. The plan is to do one mod at a time and record times and feel. I'll keep data on this thread for others.

PM sent

you couls drop something into the bore through the sparkplug hole and find bottom dead center then measure the stroke to top dead centre. Look up this website for the stroke of the two engines and work out which one it is. Or you could take it for a test drive and give it everything it's got, if it doesn't make any power until over 4000rpm but keeps going till close to 8000rpm(mine stops at 8500) then it's an rb20(and it sounds shit hot doin it) If it makes power under 3000rpm and pulls the shute at 6500 whilst sounding like an angry bastard it's probulary an RB25. Hope that help

I has my Kaaz two way rebuilt by this knob in Fyshwick and he put it back togeather wrong with incorrect clearances and preloads etc. The result felt like someone was swinging a sledge hammer under my car when i turned even the slightests corner witth anything less than heavy throttle. Even coasting into a corner in 4th or 5th would get it going. The car dramatically changed direction between on and off throttle two. Since having it rebulit by a decent engineer, it is perfectly smooth when driving around town under normal throttle. If you try and do a hill start and turn at the same time it will carry on a bit until the clutch is fully out. Then it just locks up nicely and skips the inside wheel a bit. Running a decent synthetic oil can help but over time they can loose the correct preload settings and clearances due to normal wear and tear so yours could be half way to were mine was.

That's great information guys, thanks heaps. I will post up the mods that i make to the current set up and the results from Oran Park supersprint which is in a couple of weeks. I believe the rear end definately loses accelerative traction from exessive neg camber. After having the car set up with about 1.5 neg on the front and zero on the rear i now have 3.5 neg on the front with 2.25 neg on the rear. Combined with 3mm toe out on the front and 2mm two out on the rear it is no wonder the car was struggling to get power down and trying to swap ends even in third gear on turns 3 , 4 , 5 & 11 at EC. The toe out on the rear is suppossed to reduce power over steer. When power is applied the wheel will move forward and reduce the toe out. If you start with toe in the tyre moves further forward under acceleration and apparently break traction quicker because it has a greater lateral angle through the corner. (so i have been told ) It would make more sense so me to use tow in on the rear to prevent the back of the car trying to turn around the front which is what mine wants to do rather then keeping the back of the car tight pushing it towards the inside of the corner. Alternate theories ?????? My sway bars are standard too, so i don't know where that leaves me but looking at photos of the car from the EC supersprint, you can see the excessive weight transfer to the front out side corner on corner entry. The rear inside wheel is nearly completely unloaded. That also squares up the front tyre and all but eliminates the 3.5 degrees neg camber. Keep the info coming in i hope it's benificial to lots of members.

I am running Dunlop DO1J's, tyre pressure is probulary another thread but due to only getting 9 laps in total for the day over 3 sessions i never really got a chance to play with that. For intrests sake i started with 36psi all round. I'm very interested to see the set up on a racing 32 as the stock GTR's run heavier rear springs than the front. I'm pretty sure the king springs in my Bilstein coil overs are rated at 350 pounds front and 200 rear. I'm not sure if you can make a direct comparison whith a different type of car because of the varying leverage ratios of different suspension designs. But the Keioffice (Drift King's Workshop) S15 silvia runs 9kg front and back for a setup that is suited well to circuits and can go drifting with confidence. Another S14 on that vid uses 10kg fronts and 8 kg rears.

Hello all I'm rebuilding my Bilstein Coilovers for some more serious track work with my 32 GTS T. I'm looking for information from anyone who has experience or a source regarding best overall track settings for spring rates and alignment settings. Perhaps a GTS would be set up closer to the specs of a recent 200sx GTP car rather than a GTR Group A Any sharing of knowledge on this one would be greatly appreciated.

Drifto R32 GTS-T RB20 DET app 1400kg with driver and fluids Wakefield 2nd lap before intercooler hoses started blowing off and coils packed it in. 1:12.9 Eastern Creek More lilke a drift session but anyway 1:56.2 Mods GTR rims and Dunlop DO1 Formula 225/50 16s DBA slotted rotors with Bendix Ultimate pads and Motul RBF 600 fluid Very tired Bilstien coil overs, Kaaz 2 way diff, Tomei Hicas lock, Cusco castor/camber kits GTR front mount, GTR Fuel pump, APXI ITC & AFC, High Flow T3 with HKS electronic boost controller And one very loose driver!!!!

I'm in mate so let me know what needs to be done.

How long is a piece of string???????????????????????????????????????????????????

You are kidding i hope :bs!:

My opinion is keep your RB20 cause there are better engine then the 25. You have an engine that loves to rev, can take heaps more boost which by changing turbos is what you be able to do and replacing it when she blows up is cheap. It also saves you all the hassles of engineering, rewiring and worying about the gearbox etc. On a recent cruise with the boys I opened up my RB20 behind my mates R34 GTT with the NEO 25 and the usual mods, exhaust, airfilter, FMIC, boost, computer etc. When he was changing gears on the limiter at 7500 i was pulling up to him still in third with 1000rpm to go. When i grabbed 4th i flew by at which stage he conceeded his loss. I'm running a high flowed steel wheeled version of the stock T3 with plain bearings and it's very tired. I run 15psi all day and 18 with octane booster. I'm limited at the moment by the injetors and ECU. This combo put out around 200kw @ the wheels but beats are NEO that has been dynoed at 230kw @ the wheels. But just out of a matter of interest, i was stuggling to keep up with my brother acending Mq Pass and he was in a stock atmo 4 door 31. So think about what sort of power you want or need. Big spool up and top end rush that goes on and on or punchy torque from down low with no real turbo rush as she spools up. Half the fun if you ask me.

SH?T Sorry Troy, i meant you How's Duncan anyway i don't think i've even met him. The seat is megga! Got Sparco rails to fit up perfect, I now have a good two inches head clearance and my arms can steer instead of trying to stop me falling out of the seat. Although getting in and out is an art form.

Just my experience so i'll share it Bought my car runnning standard rotors and Bendix Ultimate pads. It was good on the road but under extreme conditions like Mt Bulladelah or Mq Pass they struggled. The stock rotors where to worn to skim again so i needed to replace them. Standard replacement cost the same as EBC half drilled and slotted of the same size so i got em. Matched with EBC red stuff in the front and green stuff in the back plus 5.1 race/rally fluid i hit the Eastern Creek with high expectations. It never had alot of bite under hard breaking or feel but i was still running ABS. After 5 laps the breaking distance increased slightly but the car became unstable breaking into turn 2 and the hairpin. After driving Duncans 32 with big rotors and a pad combo put together by RACE BRAKES in Sydney i was even more dissapointed with my set up. The difference was unbelieveable. Returned the car to the workshop that set it up. Rear brakes at some stage had been on fire. Fronts had not been up to temp in time and caused rears to over heat which then put all the effort back to the front whilst the rears kept cooking and doing little breaking. Changed to Endless street spec "Y"pads in the front and standard Bendix Advance in the rear for street driving. After hard breaking massive shuddering was occuring. The hotter they got the worse it got. Had the disc skimmed and it was fine until i got them really hot again at Wakefield and they again shuddered. Examined the rotors and noticed tiny 3mm-5mmcurved hairline cracks all the way around the face of the rotors. Had them replace with DBA slotted rotors and Bendix ultimate pads. So far so good.