drifto

some did some didn't mine did but recently has stopped working, begun leaking and locks the right front way too easily

NSW plates for those that don't know where Sydney is????? Cheers dnb

DRIFTO waiting to be remade at the RTA. Best offer over $1000 won't be refused. Deserve to go to a worthy home. Contact Nick here - [email protected] Cheers

mmmmgtir, it severed thru the plastic tank itself not detached at the join. It may be possible that the cap had opened and simply couldn't release the pressure quick enough. Any way, now i have a beautiful 3 core copper radiator out of a racing GTR for $500. I think my overheating problems have been solved.

After a swift run thru the local "Nasho" i was towed out on the back of a truck. With my brother driving i watched the temp gauge climb past the point of concern and into the worry area. As i suggested to back off a very loud BANG! interuppted me followed closely by lots of green fluid and steam from under the bonnet. With the wounded skyline at rest and the bonnet up I noticed there was no top on the radiator anymore. The results of the post mortum concluded that a sludged up 2nd hand engine had clogged up what was otherwise a clean but 15 year old plastic radiator. With its hire pressure Tomei radiator cap still firmly attached to the now seperated top tank it is certain that these caps hold more pressure than a skyline radiator is designed for. The moral to the story is: 1. flush your cooling system thoroughly after installing a 2nd hand engine 2. pay more attention to your engine temp 3. only use high pressure rad caps on high press rads Bye all. :kick:

Cheers all I haven't been on the forum since i posted this so sorry you help was unanswered until now! Drifto

Where is it located? Can it be callibrated? Mine seems to be about 4-5 degrees over all the time but it also gets some serious heatsoak from somewhere. If the cars has been parked in the sun or even left in the garage after running then the outside temp reading can go into the 30's on a 10 degree day in Canberra! :flamed:

If you intend to do a lot of suburban driving then you'll enjoy the quick punchy style of the SR20 and the light weight of the S14. If you gonna be doing a few highway KM's then it would be more enjoyable in the more refined and luxurious skyline with the longer legs. But when you come to mods your 6K will probulary go futher in the S14 as with less weight less horsepower less rear steering (ie. none) less size wheels and rubber you will get more performance improvement with out spending as much money. But if i was you (and i was a few years ago ), get a datto and thrash it to within an inch of it's life or more and then get another one. When you have learned all those nasty and costly lesson of driving and got all those silly habitions out of your system then get a nice car. Later!!

Have a look at the HPI DVD volume 5 when their testing their R34GTT at Wakefield. With boost up and exhaust etc he only just pulled past an FTO. Sorry champ, NA33 = not a fast car Yeah! Falcodores and 1.6 lancers + mum in her integra. But please don't expect to beat XR's, SS's, EVO's or Type R of any Honda model! You will be shamed again.

All this talk of sucking and blowing! Gotta Go! ?????

I agree knore! Better still when your've upset the boyfriend of said GF by repeatably leaving them behind every time he gets the stupid thought that his 170kw VN calais might actually have chance! I like to let them think they have a chance by short shifting the 1st two gears and letting them get right up alongside me. Then I stab the clutch in third and launch down the road with my tail wagging. The GF's seem to enjoy this which enfuriates the BF even more and gives me a greater still feeling of satisfaction.

Anyone heard of wastegate chatter????????????????????????????????????????????? Can one of the experts here explain why my Bro's old 31 with RB20 and no BOV had this "flutter" Actually, don't bother cause I thinks it's been covered a thooooouuuuusand times before!

Where I see the attraction to the skylines is the fact that as standard they are only around 50% of there true performance potential whilst still remaining street driven. (if you got the mulla) But how much more has the Spec C or Evo 8 got left in it for the average Joe Blo to bolt on and gain performance?

Good work champ! Shame there weren't any clear shots of that 31. What a weapon, and how about his move giving that silvia a love tap on the way thru during his elimanation battle. The little Hachi Rocku's dominated thou, there's a good shot in there of Beu Yates the eventual winner getting nearly perpendicular and he recovers it. Drove like a legend all weekend. The D1 guys are on another planet! How close they got whilst being so commited in cars they had hardly driven and didn't own. Top show!!!

Sorry Otto, Your wrong! no explanation needed.

Why then does my inlet temp gauge do this: cruising - 10 degrees above ambient immediatley on boost - jumps maybe another 10 degrees sustained boost - keeps climbing gradually until after about 5 minutes of thrashing it's 50 degrees above ambient This is not a measure of the temp of the compressed air after it's passed thru the turbo. That air was gone long ago. The whole system is soaking up heat from every where. Mainly, i believe from the exhaust manifold and Turbo exhaust housing. Also consider the amount of friction the air produces went it is travelling at full velocity thru the inlet system.

Boost cut sounds right but it would come on then off if you keep your foot into it. Find out what spark plug gap is set aswell. Wouldn't faulty coils misfire all the time and at any rev range?

The noise is usually from the piston in the brake calliper oscillating because the pad and disc surfaces don't match up perfectly and cause harmonic vibrations. Your problem could be in the calliper. Most people i've spoken too that understand the concept properly are involved with motorsport and couldn't care less about squealing brakes cause it doesn't hurt performance. V8 supercars always sqeal cause they throw new pads on rotors without being machined. If you machine the rotor you'll have to skim the pads too. Try having the pad edge chamfered aswell. Otherwise turn up the stereo. lol

Datsun 180B 1800cc twin Su's 170kph ran out of puff Fiat 124cc 1800cc twin cam, twin sidedraught dellorto's 3 on board 190kmph ran out of revs at 7500 Falcon 3.9 injected no mufflers or cat, pod filter 3500 in fifth 200kph no more go R32 GTS 200rwkw too many mods to list 7000rpm in 5th = @ 240 kph just starting to really pull, revs to 8500 theoretically 290 kmh possibly! lol

a believe a 1 way diff locks only in forward load 1.5 locks fully in forward and not a tight in reverse or negative load ie. down shifting 2 way locks under the same load in either direction. What makes this happen is the angle of the ramps where the locking mechanism id held in by the preload. More load makes it harder to come up the ramp and allow one wheel to turn more or less then the other when your making a turn. Every time you get a bang or a clunck it's when the centre has turned 90 degrees and moved around to the next slot. A more shallow ramp allows this to happen smoother. It would be possible to have a 2 way set with ligth preload and it would be very smooth. Or a 1.5 very tight that would be really cluncky with forward loads but not as bad in with reverse loads.

Admit it! You were pissed!

No! The 1.5 and 2 ways have a series of clutch packs that can allow the diff to be open ie when your turning tight with the clutch in each wheel can turn independently. When load is put through the unit it forces the locking mechanism on. The amount of tension you set the diff up with via shims gives you more or less force required to lock it. With a mini spool you remove the planetary gears of a stock diff and connect the two drive shafts through the spool which effectively locks both drive shafts to the crown wheel. A full spool is a 1 piece crown wheel and spool which works exactly the same as the mini but is far stronger. When you weld the diff you simply weld the planatary gears up so they can not rotate. It is very dodgy but in a shit box works fine. Most serious track cars run full spools. I've got a 2 way Kaaz and it is annoying around town when it clunks and bangs as it locks on and off.

My mate just bought a CV8 Monaro in an attempt to beat my Skyline after is previous SS with Gen 3 failed. He didn't let me know he had $5000 of engine mods and even a lower diff ratio in it until I beat him again. Not to mention he lost his brakes coming down Kangaroo Valley. $77'000 300kw 5.7liters vs $17'000???km 2 litre turbo he, he, he But it does have leather and nice bose sound system.

Only need to go to the next oversize pistons with RB26 rods to get 2.4 I'm not going ahead with mine anymore, so if anyones interested there's a complete second hand RB20 for sale with a set GTR rods and crank in Canberra. I've also got the stock turbo! PM me! But it's hard to justify the rebuild in a GTS with the price of GTR's at the moment.

Yeah, don't do as my brother suggested and remove the bonding gummy shit with tea tree oil or metho cause it frrrked the paint. You need to pull EFFEENN hard to get it off aswell!